Everything posted by DevilDriver
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DC Sound Lab Level 4 D2 Full Review
Fork over the money for it and I'm sure you'll have no problem doing so.
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Measuring for resinate Freq:
Well, I'm not much of an SPL guy, but from a theoretical standpoint, I think the goals being discussed here are at least semi-legitimate. Get speaker and port to be in phase at the location of the mic when playing a signal at or near the vehicle's resonant frequency. I think it is worth noting that, not only must you consider the physical distance from your enclosure to the mic position, you must also consider the axis the port is on (side-firing, up-firing, etc) and the degree to which the port is out of phase. Careful considerations in positioning to get an in phase relationship at the mic would be a big bonus. Tune a little bit lower than your vehicle's resonant frequency to allow for a good balance of woofer and port output (at Fb, excursion is greatly reduced, and so is thermal power handling, which isn't a good thing, so playing a little bit above that might be a good thing). From what I have seen, SPL has always been higher on the side with the speaker; maybe using a sort of waveguide for the port to achieve some directionality and dispersion control may help boost the score even more. Dunno, they're just thoughts.
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Welcome to the IHoP
XP user? Windows Movie Maker is your best option. I use that for quick/useless edits, and either Premiere Pro or Final Cut for larger scale productions.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Who what? Bought some headphones for my brother that took them a week to even get to USPS to ship.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Call me crazy, but if you don't have time to ship something, you probably shouldn't sell it. Just FYI.
- From: Girlfriend pain
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Girlfriend pain
If the relationship wasn't meaningful at all, I'm not sure why you care. I think it's critical to realize the difference between a relationship where you are just trying to slam it in her butt, and a relationship where you want it to go somewhere. It's tough to achieve both, so don't set your expectations high if route 1 was your initial intention.
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myspace addict
My facebook: [email protected]
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Wood Glue Showdown
I agree 100% on the oily woods part. PVA usually works well with very porous and/or dry/rough woods.
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Not a completely stupid question.
The basis for the two arguments: Going Big - A more efficient enclosure; gain more output from excursion for a given input amount of power. Going Small - Excursion is minimized, allowing potential damage from over-excursion to be minimized. Can usually pass a lot more current through the coil mechanically, though the thermal limits are slightly lower. So if you're near your mechanical limits and have power on tap, you might want to go smaller. But if the opposite is the case, then going bigger can prove beneficial for you.
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Wood Glue Showdown
If you don't have perfect cuts how well does Titebond work at filling gaps? That is the best part of Gorilla Glue, but it is very apparent that it isn't as strong. Being that it is PVA-based, there are some critical considerations. Firstly, virtually all PVA glues work best in terms of adhesion when they have some pressure or clamping force on them while they set. Secondly, PVA works *ok* for gap filling, but works substantially better if you mix it with some sawdust (I have a pail of MDF dust that I mix it with).
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Wood Glue Showdown
Good stuff. I've switched from Gorilla Glue to Titebond about a year ago and am quite satisfied with it.
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porting the poly mid
What functionality will be using these for? Home, car, how deep do you need them to extend?
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Happy birthday Rich!!! (helotaxi)
All the cool kids say HBD. HBD!
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myspace addict
I greatly prefer Facebook, but I rarely check either.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Well, success will come when the money does. I'm trying to develop a good name for the company. I have a few ideas in my head right now, though.
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Welcome to the IHoP
Wow, what a shit day this has been.... Initially I was very excited. When I was 17, I lent an older friend some money to help start a business on the condition that I would receive 10% of his net profit every month when he was profitable and I would receive my initial investment in full after a 4 year term; when he wasn't profitable, I wouldn't see a dime. Well, the big day came last week, and on Friday, I received a wonderful cheque for around $5000. I deposited it in the bank account today, with the intention of: a. Purchasing an ICON and giving it a review for Aaron. b. Getting things from FEMM and FEA stages to actual production in regards to the audio company I am wanting to start. About 10 minutes ago, I received a call from the bank stating that the cheque had bounced. I got off the phone with the "friend" about a minute ago and he had to pay some last minute bills, and I should see what is owed to me at the beginning of September, with an additional $1000. So when things come to fruition, hopefully I will be in great shape. But until then, fundage is tight and my hopes of getting some stuff done before the fall semester is proving extraordinarily challenging. I'm not sure that "livid" is even the right adjective here.
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Found this on DIYMA nice testing cd
That is a great resource. I would have liked to have seen a fully clipped signal track for educational purposes.
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HBD Nick!!!
Happy birthday Nick.
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Is this true?
Exactly. A sine wave is smooth as it is a single fundamental frequency. A clipped signal is the fundamental frequency and some higher order harmonics. When you are badly clipping, the waveform becomes square because there are many higher order harmonics present. Just to give you an idea, if the fundamental frequency was 50Hz, then 100Hz would be the first order harmonic, 150Hz would be the second order, 200Hz the third order, etc. If you have enough of these present, you have a full on square wave, carrying a large amount of power under the curve (average power over time is substantially higher). If the speaker is capable of dissipating that average power, though, there is no damage done. It will simply sound terrible. I am always surprised how much clipping most peoples ears can tolerate and think is okay as well. Ahem, GedLee metric
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Is this true?
Exactly. A sine wave is smooth as it is a single fundamental frequency. A clipped signal is the fundamental frequency and some higher order harmonics. When you are badly clipping, the waveform becomes square because there are many higher order harmonics present. Just to give you an idea, if the fundamental frequency was 50Hz, then 100Hz would be the first order harmonic, 150Hz would be the second order, 200Hz the third order, etc. If you have enough of these present, you have a full on square wave, carrying a large amount of power under the curve (average power over time is substantially higher). If the speaker is capable of dissipating that average power, though, there is no damage done. It will simply sound terrible.
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IXL-18.4 Published Specs
Perhaps a stupid question, but I have the agility to convert units of a law student. Is the inductance of this driver 10.7mH or 1.07mH? 1 uH (micro Henry) = 0.001 mH (milli Henry 1 mH = 1000 uH 10747.13 uH = 10.75 mH Inductive corner frequency is determined by f = Re/(2Pi*Le) f = 3.4/(2*3.14*0.01075) f = 3.4/0.06751 f = 50.36 Hz
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IXL-18.4 Published Specs
Pleasant surprise is an understatement. Those who were very concerned about enclosure size before should be a little bit more comfortable: huge drop in Vas and Qtc .707 is about half now what it was before (down to around 3.75 cubes from around 7 cubes before). Seems very promising Mark.
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Why loudspeakers should all be rated at 1W/1m
Tighten up the gap, you increase B, which decreases Qes, which decreases Qts. I think I'll take some time to post about this later this weekend, but the lower Qts will lead to a smaller enclosure, assuming other parameters like Qms, Vas, and Fs (all inter-related) stay the same. When it comes to thiele/small parameters, there are only 5 that really matter, and all other parameters are derived from those. They are: BL, Mms, Cms, Re, and Sd. It's considered useless in a vehicle because of the extremely affordable high power amplifiers available. In a vehicle, consumers want a ton of output in a tiny box. How do you achieve that? Well, based on the Hoffman's Iron Law thread, we know we would probably be best to give some efficiency, keep your low end and small enclosure, and pack a ton of power on. Of course, that might also explain why car audio users damage so many speakers! Honestly, I think efficiency can be a good thing in any listening venue. Why do we need to pack on kilowatt after kilowatt when we're already getting diminishing returns? Well, it's what the consumer wants, so what's a guy to do? If only people realized what you can do with an efficient design (remember how excited people were when 95Honda from CSo did the 8 RE8's on 150W and nearly cracked 150dB?).
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crossover for behringer ep1500
What is this? The Playa Hata's Ball? Lollerskates.