DevilDriver

18" = orgasm Perhaps some double entendre there This is of great interest to me. Correct me if wrong, but the rl-p line is based off the TC-9; I remember several years ago, there was talk that TC Sounds had some difficulties coming up with a viable 18" solution when using the TC-9, so I look forward to this greatly. Love that motor. 32 pound motor with a large 3

18" = orgasm Perhaps some double entendre there This is of great interest to me. Correct me if wrong, but the rl-p line is based off the TC-9; I remember several years ago, there was talk that TC Sounds had some difficulties coming up with a viable 18" solution when using the TC-9, so I look forward to this greatly. Love that motor.

Welcome. Take a peak around and ask questions. We have great members with great knowledge here on SSA!

Greetings! The LMS-5400 is indeed a quality driver. Your distaste for quality sound aside, I think it would be very worthwhile to review enclosure options, as Denim mentioned. Let's hear more about your current enclosure; there may very well be a better solution available for you. The LMS-5400 has enough stroke and BL to give things a real pounding. What amplifier are you using as well? The BTL is a great option, but it would be a shame to give up on a $1000 driver without assessing the possible solutions. Cheers!

Greetings. I enjoyed reading most of your posts on CSo/SIn, so I look forward to more of that here.

Woot. Based off an existing motor, or total re-design?

Greetings. Hard to find a better forum than this one

vB is more flexible, has more known php hacks, and receives more development. The newest version of vB is awesome from a moderation standpoint; I love the points system it has in place.

Welcome! Where are you from?

Can we rate admins with negative marks?

True. I didn't think of the jackets and was only looking at the properties of the wire. Good point.

That's the same thing, and really the only thing strand count is good for in power wire.

Good opportunity for the American buyers to buy from an American store and not be too concerned with shipping.

My first thought as well.

I am working on a detailed explanation of the different BL technologies and their respective advantages/disadvantages. I will try to get that up by next weekend. Awesome. I look forward to it. Thank you for taking your time to share this information with everyone. No problem. Big thanks to you and those who reply. It makes things more gratifying and is also conducive to expanding on each topic. Greatly appreciated guys!

I am working on a detailed explanation of the different BL technologies and their respective advantages/disadvantages. I will try to get that up by next weekend.

Have you ever completed an enclosure that was a touch too small? Your low end sounds cramped but you don't want to or can't build a brand new enclosure. You throw in some polyfill and are blown away by the improvements. Then you go online to talk about it and everything gets confusing. You don't know why it works or what it really did, but you know that it sounds better. Maybe it's time you learned more about it! Firstly, there are a few primary types of fill that are used. This includes polyester fiberfill, fiberglass insulation, and long-fiber wool. Of these three, polyester fiberfill is perhaps the best option, and also the origination of the term "polyfill". These products can easily be found in several stores, including Wal-Mart, Home Depot, or a local crafts and fabrics store, and all are extremely affordable (typically less than $2/pound). It is also very easy to apply to the inside of your enclosure: simply staple or glue it to the inside of your enclosure. How does it work? Stuffing a box with polyfill makes it seem larger and it all relates to thermodynamics. When polyfill is added to an enclosure, it changes the behaviour of the airspring in the enclosure from "adiabatic" to "isothermal". The term "adiabatic" implies that there is no heat transfer occurring. An isothermal process occurs once the polyfill has been added. As the air passes through the polyfill, the fibers wiggle and cause some of the energy created by the airspring to be dissipated as heat. This heats the surrounding air molecules warmer, causing the air to become less dense. Being that sound passes easier through a denser medium, the speaker interacts with your enclosure as if it is larger than it actually is. The effective increase in enclosure size can be as much as 40%! This has some very obvious benefits that are inherent of a larger enclosure. Firstly, it becomes more efficient (a larger enclosure is always more efficient than a smaller one for any given driver). Second, the f3 (or the frequency at which SPL is down by 3dB) will be lower, providing a little bigger bottom end. While these are both great advantages, they decrease the effective damping of the speaker as well, meaning the speaker can be more likely to bottom out or over-excurt itself. Naturally, this is speaker, frequency, and power dependent. If used in a ported enclosure, you will also see the Fb (or the resonant frequency of your port) drop lower. There are some additional worthy considerations. Adding polyfill to an enclosure can be a great choice. However, too much polyfill can be a bad thing. At a certain point, the stuffing becomes too dense and the fibers no longer wiggle. At this point, not only have you taken away the size benefit of adding polyfill, you have actually decreased the effective volume as the polyfill is now taking up room inside your enclosure. It is also worth mentioning that polyfill is not as effective in a large enclosure. Let's combine these two thoughts into two simple rules: 1. If the enclosure is less than 2.5 - 3.0 cubic feet in size, you should use no more than one and a half pound of polyfill per cubic foot available in your enclosure. 2. If the enclosure is greater than 2.5 - 3.0 cubic feet in size, you should use no more than one pound of polyfill per cubic foot available in your enclosure. Specific examples of polyfill's effects on various enclosure sizes (with varying amounts of polyfill in each size) can be found in The Loudspeaker Cookbook by Vance Dickason or in an article written by Tom Nousaine for the March/April 1995 edition of "Car Stereo Review". There is one last point that you will hear from time to time regarding polyfill: that polyfill stops standing waves in an enclosure. When referencing an enclosure for a subwoofer playing a fundamental frequency that falls in the typical range, this is simply false. A standing wave in this range of frequencies would be several feet long and, thus, unlikely to occur. However, higher order harmonic distortion is possible, and can potentially colour music. Being that these higher order harmonics will be progressively shorter (in terms of wavelength), polyfill can be effective for this purpose. However, audibility, particularly at high SPL, can be quite minimal. Using polyfill in an effort to absorb standing waves or various distortion is most effective in large enclosures for your midrange and is not particularly effective for a subwoofer. Hopefully you now have a greater understanding of what polyfill does and doesn't do, while also enjoying the opportunity to absorb some scientific content as well. If you're still undecided, be wild and adventurous: put some polyfill in your enclosure right this minute!

edit: double post

Any sub will be measurably different after a break in period. However, the audibility of these changes is pretty slim. Part of the "sounding better over time" is a psychological interpretation.

Not sure if this addresses what you are asking, but in "My Controls", you can click "Board Settings". There is an option there that says "Show Fast reply automatically if available" and you can change it to yes or no.

Right now, SSA is the best, particularly on heavy traffic days. SIN, CAF, and CarSound used to be great. DIYMA is good, especially since werewolf started posting more often. I would really like to take some of the technical aspect of DIYMA and get that flowing here. CarAudio.com and ROE are awful.

It's tough to assess without knowing your specific tastes, specifically your frequency preferences. Love those 8's, but I vote for the 12" RL-p sealed; it's a little smaller footprint in a very simple to build enclosure. Great sounding driver as well.

I don't mind ads anywhere on the forum page...other than right in the middle of the threads I agree that it can appear irritating, but at the same time, the dynamic nature of the inline ads receives many more clicks than having, say, a static ad bar to the right of everything. If it really irritates you (and you're using FireFox), you can download an adblocker, but I prefer to right click > open in new tab. Then I just continue scrolling on through but provide ad revenue for SSA.

Let's get a full run-down of your electrical system, meaning battery, alt, fuse rating, wiring, amplifier, head unit, etc. This will be a start in the right direction.

Which vehicle is this? Glad you're liking it. Any pics?