BKOLFO4

CA glue. You sure the SSF filter was set at 32? You sure the box design is correct? You either had a manufacturer's defect, or you were killing it mechanically. How far would you guess the cone was moving (peak to peak stroke)? Brian

500 watts at 4 ohms: Power = (voltage^2)/impedance. 500 = (V^2)/4 V=sqrt(500*4) V=44.7 volts Ever turn the volume up higher than where you had everything set when you set the gain; did you increase the bass setting on the radio or turn the volume up past where you were when you set the gain? What box is the sub in? Subs can be limited mechanically to a power lower than the thermal rating by box design . Did you smoke the coil or do mechanical damage?

You should never be allowed to post any advice on here again. I almost fell out of my chair. . .

10's and 12's are going to handle pretty much the same amount of power thermally. If you stick with the box you have shown, 10's will work much better.

edit - $306 shipped. Forgot to add the 4+ discount. Brian

No problem. Scott said he still has quite a few. . .

They have to be built up, so there will be a wait. . .Just order from the site. Brian

That is only 2.5 ft^3 without port displacement. . .What are they doing for ports? Do you already have the 12"???? I would use 10's in that box. . .Or 2 piece box and fill the spare tire well. Brian

That is going to be a little small. You have 3 ft^3 in that box after driver displacement, but not including port displacement. Could you build the box in 2 pieces and screw them together after they are in the trunk? I have done that more than once You could use aero ports to decrease the port displacement, but a pair of 4" ports would need to be the full 17" length for a 35-36 Hz tuning. They will not fit unless you put them in each end. I have done this in a few cars and it worked great, but you need room on each side of the box for the port to breath. How much room do you have on each side of the box after it is installed? Even with the (2) 4" ports, you are only left with 2.75 ft^3 Net tuned to 36 Hz. I would try to make a 2 piece box if it will fit. Brian

I doubt I can make it, but I have a TL if anyone needs to meter in the Dallas/Denton area. Brian

For sealed, this is a VERY nice box: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-648 For ported, this box is very high quality, but a little small net volume for me: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=260-634 Brian

x2 33-35 would be ok for the SSF. Just play some bass with really low music in it and watch the excursion. . .

Like nick said, why would they put the effort into releasing something improved if it was not a decent upgrade? I know when I went from old style BTL's to new style BTL's, I gained 0.7 dB on the TL. That is a big difference when you are in the 158+ dB range. . .

So are you saying you have an amp now? running at 4 ohms? How many watts? Lights are dimming on what you have now? what car? Did you do the big three? Good battery? Do you know how big the alt is? when you say highs are not that loud, do you mean your main speakers, or the higher bass notes from the sub?

Inner Heat Sink: Its a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the voicecoils inductance (allowing it to play up higher and have a little better overall transient response). It also reduces the volume inside the magnet gap of the motor increasing air speed with the cooling as well as allowing the coil to kick off heat to a more receptive thermal mass rather than magnets. 
 that came out after I bought mine. If I was buying again, I would get it. . .anything to get the heat out. I also always like when a sub can play higher and still sound good.

I like 10's.

That is what I would do. A true 4000 watts is a lot of power on a 3" coil for an extended length of time. With 4000 watts, I run out of excursion playing music before I have thermal issues. But I also have my SSF set fairly low. Brian

What application, SPL burps, or a daily music sub? SPL burps you don't need those things. Daily music with 4000 watts - you will need cooling and more than likely the long coil. With 4000 watts, I easily get full excursion playing music, even with a subsonic filter. Brian

And then do you play it with any of the headunit setting higher than they were when you set the gain or play a song with more bass than the one you were playing while you set it??? It is hard to hear distortion in a trunk setup. . .

Are A600.2's a good amp?

The perfect amplifier takes a signal on the input and produces that same signal but amplified. Let's say I built an amp that took a 1 volt input signal and amplified it to 60 volts on the outputs. That is great, but what happens to the guy with the radio that has 4 volt preouts? He has 4 speakers connected to the radio's power outputs and the amp connected to his RCA's. He turns the volume to 1/4 way up - his speakers are getting 1/4 power, but his amp output is maxed. how do I fix that problem? I add a setting on my amplifer design that allows the user to adjust what voltage is required on the input to achieve the 60 volts on the output. A normal amp may give you 0.5 - 10 volts as a range. If I set it at 0.5, then when there is 0.5 volts on the input, there will be 60 volts on the output. Set it at 10 volts, there will be 60 volts on the output when there is 10 volts on the input. Most of the time, you have a good approximation with the radio's rated output and the numbers on the amps gain setting, but: Sometimes the headunit does not produce what it is rated. Sometimes they do more than rated. The numbers on the amps are not perfect (tolerances - I have 6 amps in my van - none of them are set the same to get the outputs to all match). Not all amps actually have a linear output changes as you change impedances. If an amp does 600 watts at 2 ohms and only 800 watts at 1 ohm, there will be a difference in the gain settings depending on the load impedance connected to the amp. Some amps (like the Kicker I just installed in my Silverado) do not even have numbers on the gain setting (just says min - max). The list of variables goes on. . . The best way to set the gains would be to use an O-scope and look for the output actually being clipped. Most people just use a True RMS DMM and look at the amp's output voltage using a 50 Hz test tone. You know the amps rated power and impedance, so you can calculate the maximum voltage you should see on the outputs. Sometimes even this is off due to the actual impedance of the subs in the box playing a 50 Hz tone, but once again it is a great starting point. Some of us can set the gain by ear and then know how to tell when the system is being stress. If you can do this, it really does not matter where it is set, since you will not go past the limits of the system Brian

Man, bring up an old thread and then make that statement. Did you read anything above? Did you understand??? You can make an amp clip with the gain set at 1/8 if I have a strong enough input signal. It is not a volume control or output limiter. It determines what input voltage is required to achieve maximum output. In my own personal vehicles, I keep the gain set so I can maximize output well below full power of the headunit is achieved. I then install an inline controller on the RCA's. Now if I am playing a song with weak bass, or just feel like HEAVY bass, I can just adjust the inline controller. The way I see it, the main problem with Hifonics is not the amp itself, it is that 90% of the people buy them are looking for the lowest cost maximum performance system. Those two things normally do not go together. The user ultimately tries to get more out of the amp than it was made for and kills it. Brian

Not sure what they are going to do yet. Never powered them up. I am hoping it sounds pretty good. I doubt they keep up with the subs, but I have a level controller in the dash for the subs when I want to balance it. It has been raining here so much that I have not had a chance to go finish up the kicker amp wiring. Everything is there, just needs to be connected. Right now I just have a pair of Kicker DS600's in the dash on the radio power and you would not believe how loud they get. . . Never know if speakers are going to add or cancel when they are in funny positions until you try them. In a big system, I would assume the bass is going to be cut from the full range speakers, so there should not be much of a cancelation issue between the full range and subs. Brian

What is the maximum size the box can be and I will make a design he can build from. Brian

So the voice coil was not rubbing the motor, the motor was rubbing the voice coil?? Need to post up some pics so we can see what you are talking about. 6th screw would not hurt anything, although I am surprised it was not there. If I understand correctly, the sub started out working fine, since 5 months would be November/December and you said you got it in the summer. Brian