BKOLFO4

Man I cannot wait. Never had an IB setup in the house, so these subs should make a good start!

Here is what I did to the alt belt to help control the slipping. Both doors are complete!! Wired and drivers screwed in. Kicker amps Brian

I bet I have the first (8) 22" wall in my HT. . . .

I think Crutchfield is $30?

Look at item 310133844420. Search for "chevrolet speaker adapter" Brian

Couple of friends, Joey and Moose, are putting on a SPL event North of Dallas/Denton in Lindsay, TX. It will be a simple format of legal SPL with 3 classes divided by your amps 4 ohm power ratings. It would be nice to get a good crowd there to meet a few new people and have a good time. I hope to have the van there (not to compete, just for demos. I will be running the TL). No SMD subs yet, but I should have something in there If you have any questions, call or text one of the numbers below. Brian

AA does not have any 8's right now. . .

I figured you were doing something. That was the I worry all the time about hitting my bars in the back of the van. I really need to build something to cover them. Brian

Looks like a short waiting to happen If you ever want to use copper, there is a place here in dallas that has VERY good prices. I bought 7 ft of 1.5" x .25" solid copper for $60. They will precut and ship to you. . . Brian

All depends on the box design. Larger areas of wood tend to flex more and need to be thicker or braced more.

x2 Many times the numbers printed on the amp are just estimates. Too many tolerances there to assume they are correct. You also don't know if your headunit can actually output more than 4 volts. . . If you smelled the coils, they were getting the power

(4) 027-428 - 10 uF cap (2) 027-430 - 12 uF cap (4) 016-1 - 1 ohm resistor (2) 016-2 - 2 ohm resistor (4) 016-12 - 12 ohm resistor (run in parallel for the 6 ohm in the tweeter section) (2) 255-214 - .25 mH coil (2) 255-206 - .15 mH coil (2) 255-260 - 1.5 mH coil (2) 255-226 - .44 mH coil Total - $75.00 for BOTH crossovers. You can upgrade the coils in the woofer section to 15 ga if you want, but those mids will not handle enough power to actually get much difference - 18 ga inductors should be fine. I did the (2) 12 ohm resistors in parallel because PE is out of stock on the 5.6 ohm. Go ahead and spend another $23 and you will get free shipping. . . aero ports for the cabinets, new soldering iron, something? Brian

Just braces in those areas. Even though it is 3" thick, there is not much MDF there. . .

Just finished soldering jumpers on all the mids. 2 mids on each channel of the 900.4's, so I ran 3x 12 ga from the amps to inside each door and then will split it into (2) 14 ga pieces from the 12 ga to each mid. Tweeters are 8 ohms, so there will be (4) tweeters on each of the remaining two channels.

Ran over 100 ft of 12 ga and 30 ft of 14 ga into the doors today. Man was that fun getting through the factory rubber boot between the door and body! Mounted both Kicker amps. Just need to get the mids actually screwed in and finish wiring the kicker amps to the batteries. Videos to come. . .

Suspension will loosen and change the way it sounds. that should have happened within a few days. . . Have you made sure both coils still ohm out correctly? Maybe you have been listening to the same setup for too long

Hi from Denton, TX

You can send your sub in and they will do it for you. Scott said he will be chaning the site to give you the option. If you send it in, you just have to add the cost of shipping the driver back to you (and of course the shipping you pay to get it to them). Brian

Some progress Brian

The parts list can vary depending in component quality. Anywhere from $50 each to $150 each. Do you have a budget?? Parts can easily be found searching on the Parts Express website. . . Brian

HiXmCoil: This coil is simply much longer than the normal dual 1ohm or dual 2ohm flatwire coils and allows for more xmax. If you are using this in a daily scenario we suggest that you choose this option, especially in the 15 and 18 inch models. Inner Heat Sink: Its a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the voicecoils inductance (allowing it to play up higher and have a little better overall transient response). It also reduces the volume inside the magnet gap of the motor increasing air speed with the cooling as well as allowing the coil to kick off heat to a more receptive thermal mass rather than magnets.

Did you try hooking the amp up to just power, ground and remote turn on (disconnect the speaker wires and RCA's)? Maybe you have something wrong and it is just going into protect. Worth a try.

I have it on my computer at work, but I am out of town right now. If no one responds, I can give it to you on Thursday. Brian

Those amps are decent if you can get one at a good price. There might be other options depending on what you are paying for it. . .

It will depend on your box design. I have run mine daily at 0.5 for almost 2 years, but at one point I had my subs in a larger box and the 40.1's did not like it. They would go into protect at high volumes. Good thing is they go into protect before they get damaged. I have been told by two competitors that about the only way to hurt one is to physically vibrate it apart. If you bought one used, pull the back cover off and make sure none of the screws have vibrated out that are holding the board in the chasis. Brian