BKOLFO4

Where are you located? Maybe there is someone on the forum near you that can help you figure out what is wrong. Brian

x2 The fence is the guide the wood runs along opposite the blade. It is adjustable to determine the width of the peice you are cutting. If it is accurate, you will not even need a tape measure while cutting. I would also suggest the wider the better. . .

Is that 8.5 gross or net volume? I would go for 6.5-7 ft net per sub tuned to 33 Hz. Shoot for 80-100 in^2 of port area per sub. Brian

PM me what you are looking for and I will provide pricing. Brian

PM me what you are looking for and I will give you a price. . .

Nice. . .

12 ft^3 tuned to 34 Hz. . .

Sounds like it is going to be a competition car. . .and a darn good one. . .

Here is a video of the Mayhems. . . http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x24/bko...nt=MVI_1128.flv Brian

They are worth the wait. . .

This just is not going to turn out good; you better just ship that van to me!!! After you get it all the fat mat in of course. . . Just kidding. Looks awesome. That van looks new. Good luck with the build!

For SPL only, I would do: Dual 1 or Dual 2, depending on the amps P-Chamfer - Yes Cooling - No HiXmCoil - No Daily or SPL - SPL Induct Heat Ring - No Universal - No The rest is going to be car/install dependent. Build and test, modify and test, modify and test. . . . For (4) 15's in that car, I would start with figuring out your maximum gross airspace. From there, you can start figuring out net space vs. port area. Brian

I think what he was trying to say is that if the gain is set correctly, you are not going to always get clipping because of low battery voltage - you will just get less power.

That is correct. Been proven in testing more than once. . . As you stated above the problem with clipping is the RMS power can increase beyond the thermal limits of the driver, and the thermal limits of the driver can also decrease due to the reduced cooling of the coil caused by what looks like a flat DC offset at the top and bottom of the wave where you do not have cone movement when really heavy clipping occurs. No coil movement = no cooling. 99% of power applied becomes heat, so the coil has to be moving to cool it. But if you stay within the thermal limits of the driver, clipping/distortion will not damage a sub. . . Damage is done by exceeding the thermal limit of the coil, or the mechanical limit of the suspension. Brian

Sudden white smoke without a few minutes of bad smell before hand sounds like a good possibility of DC offset from the amp. Had it happen too many times with MD3Ds I run 4000+ RMS daily without any problems. . .and yes, I run 4000+ daily . I smell the coils every now and then if I am showing off clipping the amp's outputs, but no damage to the subs. Were you smelling hot glue on the coils before you saw white smoke?? I would connect that amp to another sub (ready to disconnect quickly if there is a problem) and test it before you use it again. Let us know. I have been hearing good things about that amp, but would be curious to know if yours failed. . . Brian

Man mine are definitely louder. After a good two weeks of hard break in, I metered mine. Exact same configuration subs (dual 1's, dual 1 gaps, long coil), same box, same amps. Gained 0.9 dB sealed on the dash. Went from 153.9 to 154.8 @ 36 Hz. Brian

That is definitely the article to study for building your own arrays. . . If you want something inexpensive that is easy to build and sounds great, look at the ART array here: http://audioroundtable.com/GroupBuild/Projects/ Under $300 for a set to see if you like the sound of an array.

Are you saying you bought BTL 18's for $80???????

The DCR is the coil's resistance with a DC voltage/current applied. Your amps will not see this resistance except maybe in the condition of a full power burp for milliseconds before the coil is energized (begins to create a magnetid field). The impedance is the "resistance" when A/C is applied. A speaker's voice coil being a coil causes the impedance to change with frequency. The nominal impedance is the average rating that will be seen while the speaker is playing. Add to that the impedance rise due to the change in the speaker's reaction once placed in an enclosure, and the impedance will be even higher. . . Here are a couple of good articles: http://www.bcae1.com/resvsimp.htm http://www.teamrocs.com/technical/pages/re...e_impedance.htm

Given your dimensions, you can do 17" x 17" x 37" with a port 15.5" x 3" x 24". Run the port in so it is 3" from the back wall and then turn and go another 7". double the baffle. That is close to 3.75 ft^3 tuned to 32-33 Hz. Brian

150 is great with one sub. Comment was not a negative to you, but I see it may have come across that way. I was commenting to the statement above. . . Brian

The new crunch GP3000D-Pro is not your normal crunch amp. . . . The lower wattage GP amps are not RMS rated - the 2500 is 2500 watts max, that is why they are so inexpensive. Kinda like the US Amps XT series. We will see when I get mine. . . Brian

Try 157 dB @ 36 Hz

Crunch GP3000D-PRO. Getting a lot of great reviews. I may get 8 of them shortly. . . http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/Pr...ProductID=18538 Brian edit - yes, your diagram above is how you want to wire them.

It is 32"