BKOLFO4

Couple of box mods, and that song is now peaking at 155.6 @ 40-41 Hz.

A short video. http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x24/bko...nt=058147f5.flv Brian

I will be there assuming nothing in the vehicle dies this week. . . Brian

Box is right at the minimum size you need. You could build a slot port on one side. 21.5" x 4" x 25". It would extend into the box to 4" from the back wall and then extend 7" further along the back wall. Net is 6 ft tuned to 33 hz. Add a couple of bracing strips on each side of the woofer mounting hole. Brian

I am running '06 MD3D's. I like them, but I may need more power

Most people around here know I was running (2) MT 18's and (8) MD3Ds. I am now running (4) MT 15's with the same amps. Each pair of amps is strapped to a MT with dual 1.4 ohm coils in parallel (.35 ohms per amp). With a hour of testing, I was able to pull a 157.1 at 37 Hz with the new (4) 15" setup. And it will actually do 157.0 from 36 to 40 Hz. The (2) 18's did 156.9, but that was at 43 Hz. I will post some videos of it in the next couple of days. Anyone know of a good bass race song @ 38-40 Hz? Brian

You can add another yellow top in the factory location under the hood. The factory battery tray replaces the passenger side front fender support. you can get the complete setup from gmpartsdirect.com for around $20. I have (2) yellowtops up front. Install sounds good. Brian

You guys going to Heatwave in Austin????

I thought that too until my Blue Print 1803 fell out of the enclosure when all of the drywall screw heads busted. . . .

You could build it 41.5" x 16.5" x 29.5". 3/4" material everywhere except the top, which would be 1.5" thick. Have a port on each side of the rear face of the box 3.5" wide (the port would be 14.25" high x 3.5" wide). The port wall would extend into the box 25.25" (3.5" from the opposite wall). That would be 7 ft^3 NET with 100 inches of port area tuned to 32-33 Hz. I did not show, you should add bracing between the two drivers. It could even be a solid divider to make each driver in it's own chamber. . . Brian

You can use drywall screws to assemble the box. Be sure you predrill holes or the wood will split. I nail with an 18 ga air nailer to hold the joint together while I predrill and screw. Use plenty of wood glue. #12 pan head sheet metal screws work great for holding the driver in the box. Once again, it works best if you can predrill holes. Brian

In his testing on thos forum, he ran the amp on (4) D2 coils, which is a ".5 ohm" load. Is it stable? edit: I assume there would not be a warranty, since he discontinued the .5 ohm warranty on the Z series, but it sounds like the amp will handle it if you do not screw up the install. . .

What amp do you have? You might want to try what you have before you pay to have changes made - With impedance rise, you may be ok. Brian

How about 40" wide x 17.5" high x 29" deep. Use 3/4" material, and double up on the front baffle making it 1.5" thick. Make a slot port on each side 3" wide x 16" tall. The port should extend to 3" from the back wall of the box. Use a 3/4" piece in the center of the box for a divider. That should make for 3.6 ft^3 net volume with 48" of port tuned to 32-33 Hz (each sub). I tried to make the ports wider for more port area, but with only 40" of width, you run out of room for the subs. 40" - 6" (port width) - 1.5" (outside walls) = 32.5" remaining for the subs. Brian

That is a pretty small box for (2) ported 12" subs. Even with a 14.5 x 1.5 port (violates the 1:8 rule), the port needs to be 27" long for 32 Hz tuning with only 1.8 ft^3 per sub. That leaves well below 1.8 ft^3 per chamber remaining. . . . Even a box for (2) 12's with a single port ends up: Say the port is 14.5 x 3, the port needs to be 25" long for 32 Hz tuning in 3.6 ft^3. That leaves less than 3 ft^3 net volume using the max dimensions listed above. You may have to go with sealed. 27" x 16" x 15" would make a good sealed box for (2) 12 q's with a divider in the middle. Brian

Should be fine. Brian

you have a lot of power for 4 of those. . . .

That will be a 1 ohm load. With impedance rise, it will be higher, so you may be closer to 2 ohms. back the gains off a little and take it easy on the vooume knob and you should be ok What subs are they? Brian

I was running (4) US Amps MD3D's on each of my MT 18's. I will now be running (2) MD3D's on each MT 15. That is a lot of power for any driver. If you use it correctly, you shoudl not have a problem. . . . Brian

Did the customer just charge back because they were unhappy or claimed they did not get the merchandise, or did they report it as a stolen credit card number charge? My buyer claimed they did not buy the merchandise - it was bought by a third party who had stolen the credit card info. I learned from the police that the address the package was sent to and signed for at was vacant. Apparently this thief just watched the tracking number and waited around for the package on the day it was delivered. Since the credit card owner did not actually buy the merchandise and it was not shipped to the address that the credit card sends the bill to, they returned the money. Once they return it, paypal will appeal it once for review, but no confirmed address = no seller protection policy. I had all my info as you did, sent all the info to Paypal, had USPS involved for mail fraud, reports with police departments at my location and the delivery location - never got anything. Be careful shipping to non confirmed addresses, if you sell enough, I bet it will burn you some day. . . . Brian

A lesson to anyone reading this from someone who was also burned on an IVA-c800 for $800 - I was the seller (I know it is too late for those already burned, but this might help someone reading): When using paypal as a seller - ONLY SHIP TO A CONFIRMED PAYPAL ADDRESS. MAKE NO EXCEPTIONS! PERIOD. Did I get that through to everyone???? If you ship to a non-confirmed address, and the buyer reverses the charge through his credit card, paypal will not do anything. When using Paypal as a buyer - Use your credit card for funds. If the transaction goes bad, you can get your money back through the credit card. Paypal does not protest credit card charge backs - they leave that up to the seller, so if he is not legit, you have nothing to worry about. Even if he is a legit seller, if he sent a product that was not as described, you just send it back and reverse charge through your credit card. As long as he has the product back, Paypal will not protest the credit card charge back. I was told on the phone by a paypal customer service rep that they have agreements with the credit card companies not to interfere with customer creditcard accounts and charge backs. edit - this includes if the seller has already removed the money from his account. I had already removed the money from my paypal account, and with the credit card charge back, it just showed a negative $800 balance. As already stated, it does not work that way with money withdrawn from a checking account. I spent three months trying to get my $800 back and got no where. Finally gave up. Brian

Found the problem. Amp I am using is made by Metra and says it has a LP filter. It does not, or if it does it is not very good.. Added a 80 Hz LP filter on the input to the amp and the sub came to life. A little port noise, so I am going to try to find a 3.5" port tube tonight (that is the largest I can have in this design). Thanks for the input! Brian

I just built a 4th order BP box for a Panasonic 10" woofer, and it sounds terrible. Not "bandpass" bad, just designed wrong. The frequency response is WAY off. Here is what I have: Panasonic 10" t/s Vas: 42 L Fs: 30.0 Hz Qts: 0.37 I input that into the calculator on carstereo.com and came up with: Volume front = .397 ft^3 Volume rear = .533 ft^3 Fb (front side) = 58.3 Hz Frequency response ~ 35-90 Hz Added sub displacement and port displacement to the front and rear volumes and built the box. Due to the small area, I could only get a 3" port into the enclosure. Maybe that is too small? Calculated a 3" x 12" long port. Anybody tell me what to do different????? Thanks! Brian

Are we talking about my old 1803? If so, I know where the match is if you need another one. . . Brian

Man I love AA products. I first met Chad years ago when I sold him one of my Blueprint 1803's out of my HT. Due to space requirements, I had to downsize my subs and ended up with a pair of Tumults in small sealed boxes. After a couple of years of not hearing from him, he calls me one day and says - Hey, I was wondering if I could borrow one of your tumults for a week or so to take some measurements. Still not sure what I was thinking at the time, but I said sure and packed it up and mailed it to him. . . .If you look around, there are pictures of it out there when Chad was using it to see how it performed vs. the AVA 15. I have run (1) AVA 15 in my suburban, I ran (1) AVA 18 for a few months, and I even had my (4) AVA 15's in the suburban for a while. The (4) AVA 15's live in my HT on a QSC PLX3402, good for 850 watts per sub. Definitely no lack of bass in the HT Just finished a friend's HT with AA MTM's for the 3 fronts, and a pair of Assasin 12's on 350 watts each. It is a fairly small HT, and the sound is amazing. Getting ready to do another set of MTM's in a HT for another friend. After talking to Chad this week, I have decided (4) Havoc 15's will be the next subs in my suburban wall with 4000+ watts each. I don't think my account allows remote linking, so you have to go to each page to see the pictures. Most of the pics of my HT are VERY old, but there is a pic of one of the dual AVA sub boxes at the bottom of this page: http://bkolfo4.freeservers.com/photo3.html Pic of the AVA vs. a Tumult here: http://bkolfo4.freeservers.com/photo4.html And a couple of pics of the (4) AVA's in the suburban here: http://bkolfo4.freeservers.com/photo6.html Brian