BKOLFO4

I understand. . .Just sucks having to pay for that round trip shipping!!!!

Hope you don't kill the tinsel leads on that XXX. Speaking of which, when are you ever going to send Skip a recone kit for a XXX 12???? That would give him 2 of them and 4 sets of XXX comps for his 73 Challenger project. . .Too expensive to send in the sub and pay for return shipping. . . edit: I see on SMD that XXX has double tinsel leads, but that doesn't change the fact that Skip needs a recone kit

x2 on the 1 ported > 2 sealed.

Where is the video with the second Mayhem installed?????

Doubt it. Need room for the port and driver displacement. I have done a couple of comparisions of (2) sealed vs. (1) ported. (1) ported has always won for me. Brian

If you are going to be running the SAZ1500D in your sig, it will not hurt to have the box at 8.5 cuft. I would tune to ~32-33. 100 sqin of port is plenty for a BTL 18. If he is going to do more than 136 sqin (guessing from 8.5 x 16), it is not necessary.

Welcome!!!!

I think that is why he said:

It is interesting that people relate larger cone to better low frequency response. . .Also interesting that people say they are not related and 2 drivers of the same model but different sizes will sound the same. . .I think some people read too much on forums and then post based on general ideas t/s parameters of the driver and what box the driver will be installed in will determine what kind of lows it will have. . .

People think ported boxes do not have good SQ, because of prefab boxes (or boxes that are too small) that are not correct for the sub being used. Many of them I have seen are also tuned way too high. Ported boxes built to spec with the correct amount of port area and tuning can sound awesome. . . Brian

I would say a 12" ported over a 15" sealed. . . t/s parameters of the sub and the box design determine how low the sub will play, not the size of the cone. . .

PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES

UPS estimates a date assuming it will be shipped that same day. . .Not the case with your sub. They still have to build it. Once UPS actually picks it up, it will update with the true delivery date and show the shipping progress. As long as it says billing info received, it has not shipped yet.

I have never used the RE calculator and the design come out correct!!!!

PM sent. . .

Looks nice. Hard to say much about it without knowing a few more things. . . 1. how much port area? 2. final net volume with 45's and bracing? 3. port tuning frequency? 4. how much power will you run to each sub? 5. is this for SPL burps or music? Threaded rod between the drivers to the back wall will be nice. I had (4) 15's with just a 1.5" thick baffle, and a single threaded rod in the center of them to the back wall took all of the flex out. Brian

I use this one - PORT Size Calculations and Formulas for WOOFER and Subwoofer BOXES You can check the box for slot port. Never failed me yet. One thing I will add - I have built and measured the tuning frequency of many boxes. If you build a port 10" wide, you are not going to see it act like it is 5" longer. . .The most additional length I have ever measured vs. calculated is about 2-3 inches depending on the port setup. At one time I was very confused on slot port calculations, because I had measured a few boxes and they were not correct. Once I figured out that I could not gain more than 2-3 inches from the side wall extending beyond the port wall, it has always worked out. Make sense if you think about it, the idea is that the side wall adds additional friction to the air traveling through the port. As the port gets wider, less % of total air moving through the port is affected. Brian I noticed after I posted, this is the same one referenced above by Andy. . .

I think all SSD's have the same gap. you can recone it to whatever you need. For the BTL, the Universal gap is the D2 Gap. A D2 sub can be reconed as a D1, even if you did not select universal. A D1 can only be reconed to a D2 if you selected univeral.

That is 26.83" length without end correction, but end correction is only an additional .875", so I doubt it really makes much of a difference in the port tuning. edit - maybe that far length is 10 5/8"? I read it as 10 5/6", but I thought right after I posted, 'why would they have a length of 5/6"?' If it is 10 5/8", then 26.65" is correct w/o end correction, which is only .875". Not going to make much difference unless it is a really small box. Brian

Hurry up and get it working, then you can tell us how it sounds!!!!

PM me your zip code and I can get you dealer info for Havoc pricing. Brian

Thanks for clearing that up for them. . .

That always makes me laugh. My good friend is a 2-ch home audiophile. Love when he changes wire inside the speaker between the crossover and the drivers and describes to me all of the improvements he hears. I asked him one time - do you know how many feet of wire are in an inductor in that crossover or a voice coil??? You just changed 1% of the wire in the total circuit, and you hear all of those differences??? But my favorite story is a guy I worked with at Ford. He paid $300 each for a pair of power cords for his tube amps. But what made me really laugh was the $9 surge protector that was plugged into the wall of his house built in 1952!!!! But man did they make those tube amps sound good!!!

Use 4" or 6" aeros. 4" = 12.5 sqin each 6" = 28.3 sqin each You can get away with quite a bit les port area with aeros vs. a slot port. Soem people have tested as little as 50% if space is really an issue and it works. I would go with (6) 6" if you have room. But if you are building a wall, just build a big slot port. . . Brian

Be sure you post pics. . .