Swimmerdude

I have a question. Why does the SAZ-1500D look exactly like the Elevation Audio DX1500.1. link is here... http://elevationaudio.com/newelevation/displayone.php?id=8 there isnt much info on there because they just made their new site. Here is a better pic of the amp http://elevationaudio.com/newelevation/dis...nstall.php?id=4 the amps on the sides are the dx1500.1's. If i find my digital camara, i will take a close up picture of mine.

That SAZ-1500D looks a lot like my Elevation DX1500.1, must mean it is a sweet amp

Thanks Mike, thats exactly what i needed to know. I am just going to start off sealed then maybe before winter or once spring hits, i will switch to a ported box. Hopefully by then i will have put some sound deadener in my SUV. Hopefully i will be able to go out and watch a show this summer to see how the whole competition thing works.

I am going to go sealed with it. It should be plenty loud to not need to go ported. Now, what size enclosure should i shoot for??

Well, it is kind of what I have and next year, once i am out of highschool, i am thinking about competing. I will then upgrade to 2 of the drivers. My plan was to get 2 D4 drivers and wire them to 1ohm getting 1000rms each. So for now, if i only get one rlp, it will be ran at 2ohm getting 1200rms. The gains will be set conservatively to make sure i dont clip it. So what size/type enclosure should i shoot for??

I know that much, but isnt it true that by going sealed, the sub will have more power handling vs going ported??

Not for sure if i will be getting the new amp yet, but its an Elevation audio DX2000.1. I was told it would do 1200-1300 at 2ohm. I am planning on getting a 15" RL-p. So, what do you guys think about 1300rms going to it?? I know it will be fine. So the next question, what type of box should i make sinch i am throwing so much power at them?? Should I go sealed just to be on the safe side??

Winisd will only give you a rough estimate of how the subs will play, the program bases their graphs on a perfect world with infinite space. In the real world, your gonna have cabin gain and stuff. What you can do to determine the difference in displacement in the two is to do the follow formula. SD(in cm^2) * XMAX(in cm) * 2 / 1000 equals the displacement in liters. This will give you an idea of which will have more potential and by how much.

I am sure it would be OK. On the site, it says input power from 150 to 400watts. Just watch your gains and you should be fine. And yes, D4 subs can be wired to 2ohm.

I just read through everything to make sure that it isnt b-stock or refurbished. I like to buy with a 1 year warranty from an ebay seller just to make sure. Some of the cheapest prices on products found on ebay are only a 90day warranty and for maybe say, $20 more, a seller will provide you with a 1year warranty and the price will still be cheaper than any where else. But the thing about the warranties is that they are not the retailers warranty, some people really want to have retailer warranties and stuff. Its all up to if the person they want to take a chance with an unothorized dealer or go to a real dealer.

That should be loud! Looks sweet too. My friend has 1 of the new L7's in a prefab like 2ft3 box and i just got done making him a 4.5ft3 ported box for it so it should sound a hell of a lot better now.

Have the TC sounds products changed at all or did they just make a new site? I am interested in the drivers that Sound Splinter uses, I wanna know if those were changed or still are the same.

RL-P'S RL-P'S RL-P'S. I dont even have one yet and i am extremely excited about it and am recommending it. Hopfully that will all change soon. 2 15's would run you $490 plus shipping and 800rms each from your amp would be perfect and it would be loud n' sound great!!

ORION is my vote. I think it would be a better amp from a better company.

I have decided to just go with the RL-p. Just not many reviews on the new Brahma is most of the reason why. I know it would be a good driver, i just want more than just a few satisfied customers as I am buying without hearing them. It should be good and I have already emailed Mike about getting one and I just have to sort out money and such and get it approved by the rents.

All i know about Adire's CS is that ever since their move, their CS has been poop... basically because of the move i guess. I'd imagine that now that they have settled in, i wouldnt have that big of a problem with it. And since the MkIII hasnt been out that long, there arent many reviews on it. So it's kind of hard to get a good comparison between the two. Now, buying the Brahma and selling it then buying the RL-p would be a good idea but do i wanna go through all that... not really. I think I am leaning towards the RL-p because it is a great all around driver, its been proven like you said, Mike is a great guy and I just want to get the sub and then move on to components and amp. I should be extremely happy with it, thats all i know. Oh yeah... another thing.... GO DETROIT PISTONS!!!!

Well, after talking to the dealer that gave me the offer for the Brahma, he said... "But because of Adire's CS lately we have been trying to avoid any problems by doing EVERYTHING ourselves. We can recone subs and if we can just get a bunch of recone kits from Adire then our customers will never need to many any contact with Adire at all. So customer service with Adire isn't going to be a big issue with our customers. We will most likely be the only people dealing with them." So maybe its worth a shot. He was also saying that the new Brahma's do well is small boxes and if i move to a somewhat larger one, say 3ft3, they dont need much power, 600rms would be good.

hmmmm.... i could, i guess its an option.... I have a question though, with only 600rms, would the brahma be as loud as an RL-p. I know the Brahma is probably more capable but with only 600rms, how capable is it?? Hopefully someone has used the Brahma MKIII here!! EDIT: Actually, I know the Brahma has more potential cause it has more displacement. But, what does it take to make the Brahma reach full potential??

LOL you guys are funny!! The Brahma would be a 15" If they are so much alike, i think i would rather have Mike at my side!!!

May i ask why?? To me, its like this.... Brahma = maybe better output, a good deal, BUT horrible customer service RL-p = maybe less output, regular price, but GREAT customer service

I am just about set on a Sound Splinter RL-p15 and when i get money i was planning on ordering one.... BUT, a dealer just offered me a brand new Adire brahma for 300 shipped. I have read that the RL-p and Brahma are very comparable subs.... just use different technology. I have never heard either and dont think i would be able to hear either of them. So, I guess i need your guys help in deciding here. Which way should i go??

I think i have figured out the problem. The HU is a Pioneer avic-n2, the flip screen navigation unit and they hideaway(brain) unit has to be hooked up to the HU. Hopefully it works.....

well, the fuse on the car blew but the HU didnt go on when hooked directly to a battery. It is a pioneer unit if that helps any. If i remember correctly, like an my alpine, you had to switch 2 wires or something to get it to work. Is there some trick on Pioneer's?? I'm about to go out there and hook it up myself cause my dad is a flippen retard about this stuff.

ground was hooked up too, sorry.