edouble101

Nice little up-to-do-date. I wish I had the cash money for HLCDs. Oh well next year or so. You are still running mini horns?

Awesome truck, very clean! Bag it!

That engine should make alot of power!

That's a funky camera angle there on the first pic!

Looks like Thumper summed it up for you. I have an XCON 15 but have not heard it yet. I have heard numerous setups and have owned JL subs. The JL's are phenomenal. I am expecting great sound and output from the XCON. JL has to have something up their sleeve.....

Damn that amp is huge!!!

I ordered mine on Nov 11 and I do not have it either.. SSA store do not send me an XL! I was sent an XL sweatshirt that I ordered in L that is too big.

Nice window sticker!

Awesome. I have the 5 speed. I do not see many like mine. It has the 16" alloys, front lip, trunk spoiler everything but sunroof and navigation. I didn't buy it for looks or performance lol. I have owned Toyota, Honda and Acura these manufacturers really have nothing on Hyundai. I bought mine new and have 64k on the clock. I get +33mpg and havent had any issues Dont expect any performance out of it though but I am sure you knew that. Really is a great economy car. These cars are very easy to work on. Really, really easy to work on! But due to their small size everything is cramped. I can tell you that the upgraded starting battery and big 3 makes start ups instantaneous! Even in 10 degree weather.

I am also a welder/fabricator.....I start the level B on tuesday for 4 months and 6 weeks preasure testing for Natural Gas pipeline........ more money!

Two XCON 15's That amp looks very beefy inside. All of the red wires looks cool I like your false floor setup. Good use of factory stuff.

That's the only way to do it Post up a build log. I would like to see it! Thanks

Excellent craftsmanship. I would love to spend a week with you building boxes and learning I have been a welder/fabricator for 6 years and a machinist for over 5 years. I never really had an opportunity to hone in my wood working skills.

Good luck with this build

No installation update. Alot of planning the past couple days. Big thanks to resquchas and oldspark over on the12volt. A little diagram showing my general electrical layout. Nothing really changed here just posting up. I will be using two fans in a push pull configuration to help keep my 3KWP cool. I couldnt do it the normal way but rather I want the fans to come on once the amplifier's heatsink hits a certain temperature. oldspark was helpful in giving me a product that will close a circuit once it measures 60 degrees Celsius. resquchas guided me through wiring up two Bosch relays to trigger the fans and to also use as remote turn on for my amplifiers and accessories. I have some tricks up my sleeve for the installation of this circuit, it will look good I will not bore you with all the details but here is a basic diagram of my layout. Hopefully this weekend I will have some installation updates.

Those guys are 12"?

Two of my favorites Band of Horses, Cease to Begin, Ode to LRC http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=to_dIQOPNwk The Cranberries, No Need to Argue, Ode to My Family

A good rule of thumb is not to mix battery manufactures. If you need to you should get a battery isolator/relay.

The big 3 is always a good idea, but it is too over-hyped. You do realize this same wire is carrying over 500 amps while your car is starting yet you don't see manufacturers putting 2/0 in the car to handle that do you. The fact of the matter is, That alt will very rarely, if ever, be supplying 270 amps, much less be doing it at a constant rate, so many times stock wiring is fine. I dunno about 500 amps. My 2007 Chevy 2500HD work truck with the 6.0L only pulls 180-200amps when starting, measured with a DC clamp on multiple times for some other testing we were doing to the truck. Plus that 180-200 was only for a second, maybe two, not near enough time to build any real heat on the stock wires. Even 500 amps, given it was only a short burst of a few seconds tops, wouldn't heat the stock size wiring up enough to cause any trouble. Don't get me wrong, I'm not arguing against your point, when it comes to current draw it's seldom ever at high rates for any period of time unless you're playing sine waves instead of music. BUT even so, the current draw whether it's 100amps or 400 amps is more efficiently transferred with the BIG 3. The first thing I noticed in my van when I did the BIG 3 was that it did indeed seem to start a little faster/easier as well as support the audio equipment better overall with less voltage drop than without it. While it could all be debated, one thing is for certain when it comes to current flow is that there's no way the extra capacity to flow will ever hurt anything. I completely agree. IMO the big three is definitely worthwhile no matter if you add aftermarket amplifiers or not. Again 100% agree with this post.

What's up! NEPA here

I agree completely. I started by using the amp formula to determine total amps, upgraded all wires got a high output alternator and kenetiik HC1800 and had plenty of amps but still got dimming and after a second higher quality alt I still had dimming then I discovered my battery buldging and was pissed. Then after asking every installer in NoVA I came across one who told me that it's the car electrical system and the inconsistancies of the alternators especially the voltage regulator that was the problem. Even though I had "heavy duty" regulator with the high output they are simply not accurate enough to controll the voltage consistantly. In fact your car was designed to perform best with the factory alt and regulator and he only uses the amp hour method, plus 1000, instead of total amps for formulating the size of battery bank needed. After he calculated my car and amplifier he had me leave in the upgraded wire put my old battery back in (something to do with current draw away from the car) stock alternator back in and then install a battery bank between the stock battery and the amplifiers (HC2400). I now have absolutly no dimming, my amps run cooler, thermo protect hasn't kicked in since and highs are cleaner and bass hits harder I'm finally satisfied. Interesting. If I followed this post correctly your aftermarket batteries were the weak point. Too much drain to keep them charged. Basic stuff....

I really like all of the pictures. Props to your lady for giving a helping hand. Nice family project. Props again for post #55.

Nice post Tony Nelson. It really pays to plan ahead. The main purpose of inline fuses is to protect the wire. Fuse ratings are decided based on the wire manufactures ratings for the wire size and length. For instance a 1/0 length of 20" will be able to carry more amperage then a length of 20'. It is rather simple to figure out and there are many charts available. I fuse all positive wires within 18" of the battery. This includes the charge wire from alternator to battery. I do not like to use distribution blocks. I prefer to run all connections directly to the battery. They manufacturer excellent small batteries that will out perform capacitors. Upgraded alternator, starting battery and a small auxiliary battery mounted near the amplifiers sounnds like an excellent electrical system for your needs. These diagrams may help

Wicked woofers. 4 + 10k is just nuts! If the dog's eyes bother you that much then bounce your flash. They make bounce card attachments for cameras or you can use a note card or your hand. Simply hold a note card our your hand at a 45 degree angle directly in front of your flash. This will "bounce" your flash off the room's ceiling and walls. This will illuminate your subject without harsh direct flash affects.

Think about this before you go any further. This list is >50% complete of the thinking process you should go through when planning a system. This is just a "starters" list but will greatly help you. I can tell you from experience; plan your system out thoroughly before you buy anything. It really sounds like you are clueless on equipment choices. You will save yourself a lot of money and frustration if you have a solid game plan. I. Your budget will more than likely be the constraining factor - plan to buy what you can afford (both financially and electrically) A. break the cost down to individual components 1. Electrical - if you want 10,000 wrms but can not afford 2-3 alts. and 5-10 batteries then you can not support the power you "want". Can you afford an alternator? Is there an aftermarket alternator available for your car? Can you install it yourself? Can you afford aftermarket batteries? Do you have the money for the necessary wiring? Wiring gets very expensive! What you "want" and what you can afford and are capable of installing may not be the same. 2. Head unit - DVD? Navigation? Ipod compatible? 3. Signal processor - Do you need an external crossover or EQ? 4. Front stage - What fits in your car? Can you custom build speaker locations? DIY custom fabrication can get expensive as well. 5. Rear fill if needed - Do you need rear fill for your style? 6. Amplifiers - Based on your vehicles electrical output and/if you are upgrading the electrical, what can you support? Again back to the example 10,000 wrms = 1000 amps. A good rule of thumb is 1000 wrms = 100amps. It takes power to make power. If you want to buy thousand(s) of wattage amplifiers you need to calculate the power requirements to support it. If you can not support the power requirement then you should not buy it. 7. Subwoofer(s) - The last decision. Based on the power you can buy (READ----->power you can afford and support) you can decide what subwoofer(s) you want. If you can support 1000wrms amplifier then look for a <1000wrms subwoofer. Now that you (hopefully) have drawn yourself a neat little diagram of you components, add up the total. Can you afford it??? Can your vehicles electrical afford it with or without upgrades??? Can you build it??? Can you afford to have somebody else build it??? Seriously take the time to plan this out!!!!