edouble101

I am restoring this amplifier again and I came back to this thread for info and just saw our question. Are you still looking for this?

I agree, with all the confusion that was going on a Fi the last few months, I never really got anymore information other that it is designed for IB use. Any sub can be used IB. I wonder if this is just a stock sub that you were told is ok to use IB (even though they all can be, some with MUCH better results than others).

You know what, I haven't looked into that. My thought is that it doesn't matter if it does or not since I will not be driving around with my trunk open. But for testing purposes I will look into this. I will post results when I have them.

Specs would help attract a serious buyer

Sure if you need 100' of it.

Not my fault man! Would have been doing things differently if I ran the shop.. Boss rules over me though. I guess Ill start to install cross overs in the kick panels / B pillars, that sort of thing. Biggest pain in the ass with these vehicles are the connectors in in the door grommets, makes wires a lot harder to run. An easy solution to that is to use four conductor wire. You can buy 18 gauge four conductor at lowes. If the xovers are mounted in the kick panel area this will work well.

Thats freakin nuts!

No return shipping label that I ever received. You payed return shipping on a sub that you received damaged? My case did go that far, yes. Luckily at the last moment I discovered a fix that avoided a return. The last thing I wanted to do was to wait months to get a sub back.

But if hes pulling more then 220amps, then the batteries are whats gonna take the hit, and that's assuming the alternator is going at full output. Which if hes already got two runs of 0g that's ~500amps that can get through. So in all reality wouldn't it be wiser to go with a larger alt, and or more batteries, to take the strain? It seems like wire is the least of his priorities. (fixed typo) No idea bro. I have no idea how his stuff is wired up or how old his charging equipment is. Maybe the alt and batts are shot

Ill read the manual tomorrow.. lol. Iv always installed xovers in the door just for ease and how much quicker it is, but if its not suggested then I guess I should change my gameplan. Ill read the manual tomorrow.. lol. Iv always installed xovers in the door just for ease and how much quicker it is, but if its not suggested then I guess I should change my gameplan. Page 4 in bold letters "DO NOT INSTALL THEM INSIDE OF A DOOR".

No return shipping label that I ever received.

Nice equipment! i'd get those xovers off the doors. Didn't it say that in the manual?

If your vehicle had a frame then you might not need dedicated grounds. I would run equal ground/power in a uni-body. 20' of 1/0 OFC can handle a good 250a @12v with minimal voltage drop. Step up to 2/0 or 3/0 welding cable and the current capability will increase and voltage drop will decrease. Makes no sense to do multiple runs of 1/0 car audio wire when superior welding cable is available. BTW, KNU makes comparable wire to 2/0 welding cable.

Depending on the vehicle you ave you may not need any ground runs. What make/model vehicle do you have?

Yep that sucks. If Fi determines it is their responsibility to honor a warranty they will issues you an RMA. Then you send the sub back in (you pay shipping both ways). My guess is probably another couple months till you get it back. From what I have been reading it may take a couple weeks till Fi comes to a determination.

What is broken about the sub?

Product Brand & Model: ART USB DUAL PRE Project Series 2-Channel Preamp Dayton Audio EMM-6 Electret Measurement Microphone Dayton Audio CMX-25K XLR Microphone Cable 25 ft. Black Condition of all items: All are used in excellent condition Total Price: : $135 shipped in the lower 48, paypal payment only Shipping Terms: : FedEX ground included in price Pictures: Additional info: This all the hardware necessary for a RTA measuring system. This will work with RTA software such as TrueRTA and REW along with many others (if not with ALL software). You need to buy/download your own software.

Sure thing. Bottom line - they sound decent but there are better IB subs available for automotive use.

The setup : (2) IB315's powered by a SAZ1500D v.3 @1ohm. High passed at 20hz@24db, low passed at 56hz@18db. I could lower the high pass but i do not see a reason why. These subs are rated at ~500wrms@20hz and I am powering more than that (cautiously). Normal phase. Response : There is a big peak around 28hz. I do not have enough "cutting" to flatten it out. I think this is caused by having two high qts 15" subs in a small 13.5^3ft trunk. This isnt too big of an issue since most bass is above this. Also, this is not causing a "boomy" sound. They do have a usable response up to about 80hz. For staging reasons I found it sounded best to cross lower to help maintain the image of "up front bass". This illusion is pretty good on most tracks but the majority of songs the bass surrounds you versus strictly up-front. Output : The IB315's have a decent amount of output on the SAZ1500D v.3. In fact the majority of the time they bass level is turned down considerably. These subwoofers will handle a lot of power with a SSF set at 20hz@24db. I hear no mechanical noise or audible distortion that would make me think they are stressed. I am anxious to get this setup on the meter. I am betting 140db @25-30hz. Clarity : Bass is extremely clear and I am really enjoying the snappiness of these setup. There sounds to be no overhang of a bass note when another one starts. Overall judgement : Not having an enclosure is a huge bonus for me. The overall response of this setup is very good. Bass is so smooth (due to a somewhat flat response) sounding. I am not convinced that IB is the "go to" setup for SQ. I think that a properly designed sealed or ported enclosure will give very similar results. I would like to try a lower qts subwoofer in this setup such as SI HT15's. I have a good idea that a lower qts subwoofer would yield a flatter response. Note on RTA tuning : A flat graph sounds like shit. No sub bass, no midbass, lifeless midrange. I use an RTA to help me identify problem areas then I tune by ear. You will notice that my graph is not flat. There is an up-rise starting in the upper midbass region and gradually continues through the sub bass region. This is how a graph should look IMO. Note the untameable 28hz peak.

If you do end up going that route, you should sell me one of your XCONs and your enclosure! They are gone.... What?? Sold already? Stolen? I saw you punctured your dustcap, but that's about it. If you do end up going that route, you should sell me one of your XCONs and your enclosure! They are gone.... What?? Sold already? Stolen? I saw you punctured your dustcap, but that's about it. I didn't puncture the dustcap. Expanding foam accidentally dripped on to the cone.

I like all the build pis! How much power at the wheels are you expecting ?

I was just looking at those on the Fi website yesterday. I would bet neo prices and availability has a lot to do with it.

my experience with those is meh. On particular for Adrian's need playing only up to 300hz. For the $ they are nice but I'd be more interestd in them with a budget large format tweet and an el cheapo passive for a sleeper comp set. That being said they are better mids than I've ever seen in a sub $200 comp set...maybe even $300 What specific 6.5-7" driver do you recommend based on the ops requirements that he listed in his opening statement?

Personification.