edouble101

At a bar at noon on Monday. I wonder what you do on Fridays.

NICE!!!!!!!!!!

Haha funny shit! BTW there are 3 pics! HA! lol What would be the diffenece between this and a bigger single driver? ....we will see! Why vertical arrays work: Depending on the frequency our ears have a somewhat hard time distinguishing a sound source on the vertical plane. Below 1khz our ears can't really detect the elevation of the sound, but above 1khz they may start to pick up some slight elevation cues from shadows & reflections caused by the torso. The major indicator for elevation comes around 3khz+ by the outer ear (pinna). Knowing this, people have been able to exploit it, and use vertical arrays with a perceived single sound source. It's also why it's possible to have mid drivers low in the kicks, tweets up high, and still maintain a high coherent stage height. On the azimuth plane (horizontally sort of) we rely on time arrival differences between the ears. If a sound arrives to the left ear first, and to the right ear 2 Milli-seconds later (2ms is some arbitrary number), then the brain can deduct that the sound source is to our left, and that amount of delay will dictate how far over to the left or right the sound is coming from. In an array there is a slight difference in path lengths between each speaker, in a vertical array the difference can be null, but in a horizontal array it may make multiple sound sources distinguishable. *The bold I'm speculating. I also know that in any type of array, comb-filtering can increase loudness and dispersion across the main axis. In a vertical array it may be null, but in a horizontal array the increase horizontally could weaken staging. I'm sure there are other aspects that come into play like interference, but I don't know much about beyond what I've already stated. In any event, I'd definitely finish the pods, and try them out. Thanks for dropping some knowledge Stephan! I always appreciate your input. I have thought about the very points that you have brought up. And my conclusion was to give it a try. The distance from driver centers is 3" (length of 3500hz full wavelength). Crossover points will have to be carfeully selected. Hopefully all goes well.

Nice scores man! Your roof looks like it is about to pop off!

Check out http://www.carstereogiant.com/ for Sundown products. I ordered two Z.3 15" there. Customer service was good and shipping was fast.

The wire loom going from amp to batt looks gay If you need to cover it use Techflex.

Haha funny shit! BTW there are 3 pics! HA! lol What would be the diffenece between this and a bigger single driver? ....we will see!

An extra battery (or a million extra batteries) will not prevent voltage drop from 14.xx to 12.xx volts.

You used an amp rated at 2500wrms with a 130a alternator and never dipped into the 12's?

I originally planned on running my mids vertically, in the a-pillars. With the drivers angled right in that setup it just didnt look good So on top the dash they go. The tweeters will go in the a-pillar. The driver's side is started. I will be parallel wiring the 8ohm drivers.

I have a Craftsman DVM. I had it for 15 years now, works great!

Looks like a good time to upgrade to CF dust caps. And get that burp box built

Tuned in to see more!

Battery voltage should be measured at ambient temperature with the vehicle off. You have your field wire directly connected to your battery? You are bypassing your vehicle's VCM?

Get'r done!

What does your battery rest at? If the alt(a) has a high load it will warm up quick. Alt whine through your speakers could be a ground loop, uncommon with newer equipment but possible.

Yep. If it sounds like shit I dont want it!

Sounds like a good deal to me.

Go with a Sundown SD-2 10. The mounting depth isnt as tall as the SA and since it doesnt have a pole vent the magnet can be against the back enclosure wall. The recommended enclosure size is 0.5 cubic feet. SD-2 is the best driver for behind the seat mounting in standard cab trucks imo. Unless you go with a true shallow mount driver.

I dont know why you are stuck on tuning at 28hz. To get a nice bump at tuning 32hz is looking much better for the xcon. There isnt much of a difference between 4 cubes and 5 cubes for dual 12" xcon. 5 cubes has slightly lower xmax at tuning and slightly lower group delay. The group delay for this driver is really high, no matter what size enclosure. Weird for a "sq" driver. 5 cubes will give you a smaller port length compared to 4 cubes. So probably 5 is best. 80^2 inches of port area looks good, about 30 m/s peak. If you want an aero, 10"er would work 33.85" in length. If I had your car I would do subs up (facing trunk lid) port to the driver's side. You would need to try a couple different orientations but I would start there. Just my opinion.

....and as much port area as possible with those xcons.

1600w vs 3000w is enough to notice. Order your new xcon a d1 and recone the other one. If you build your enclosure out of birch plywood you can shave of weight vs a mdf enclosure. Try it with the D3400 underhood and see how it does. How do you have your electrical wired?

Glad to hear that you realized your front battery was dead. That could have haunted you for a while. I can rep for both DD and American Bass. My M3a has proven it self. I have a VFL-450.1 to replace it I cant say to buy one over the other. The dollar per watt ratio maybe better with AB.

You are not going to notice 0.050" If you are that concerned about it make all your cuts in mm.

same wall for now.I was contemplating changing organizations that would be dash score. but things have turned around. I'll probably keep the center port for the time being Ah. I was expecting a different port orientation. You said you were trying something different. Has anything changed other than additional batteriers and bondo?