edouble101

My use of the RTA software is new to me. Adjustements, calibration and setup are things I am learning as I go. What I hear and the RTA measurments I am taking agree with each other. That makes the RTA software useful enough to me. I am enjoying making installation adjustments and being able to physically see the results. I bought the JL based on the installation parameters I currently have and what my goals are. There are many errors in my design and installation and at this point I am trying to achieve my goal without ripping out my kick panels completely. I know it isn't the way you would do it. There is a lot of trial and error needed. Maybe more for me than others I do appreciate any helpful assistance. From my mistakes and learning from them, hopefully somebody reading this thread will find it helpful in designing and building their car audio dream.

Why the peak at 100hz and the rapid fall-off on either side of it??? I just don't understand that. i'm not really sure because you have filters on and i cant tell what is a peak. disable the lpf @ 400hz so we can see establish if the peak at 100hz is a peak. It could be that its fine at 100 and down at 300 and down <100. I will try and take more measurements this afternoon/evening.

Why the peak at 100hz and the rapid fall-off on either side of it??? I just don't understand that. I could be wrong, but it might be from the mounting location being in the kick area. *Cabin characteristics at play* I haven't modeled your drivers, but the small enclosure volume might throw that peak in. How thick are your enclosures? Are they deadened inside with any clay, or just fiberglass? Reason I ask, is resonance. The enclosure thickness varies. I am using a 3/4" baffles that was fiberglass then smoothed out with kitty hair that is very thick (about an inch) near the mounting ring. The inside of the enclosure is bare metal and expanding foam. I stuffed the enclosure with poly fill, leaving a clear path to the AP Mat, and that did nothing to the FR.

That was a huge issue. It did take a lot of wiping, ducking and cursing to get the shots without mist on the lens. Luckily the camera made it out ok

Thanks Eric, I am practicing with this new camera. There were no hit and miss engines there today. In September at Penns Cave you will see them making ice cream, apple cider, and other things. We go there every year too. My Grandpa builds hit-and-miss engines. I grew up hearing them at eating ice cream turned by them. I have a lot of camera books laying around that I read and no longer need. PM me if you are interested, just pay shipping.

I will do that tomorrow, hopefully.

Why the peak at 100hz and the rapid fall-off on either side of it??? I just don't understand that.

Nice pics! Did you eat ice cream made from a hit-and-miss engine?

I did switch the polarity of the driver side midbass to see if there was some weird cancellation. The graph after that was not pretty. Lost all output under 100hz. I looks as though the enclosure size is way to small for this driver. I am seeing about a 24hz/oct roll-off on either side of 100hz. To convert this setup to IB I am wondering if the hole cutout in the fender well needs to be larger (it is 4 3/8" now). Maybe I am creating a weird resonance in the enclosure with it being the way it is now?

Yes those are my crossover settings. I am measuring both left and right together, no t/a. All settings at the amp are flat.

Even after heavy doses of eq I am not satisfied. I can get the RTA curve fairly flat but it still isn't sounding as good as I want it to. I ordered JL Audio ZR800-CW. The driver parameters are much different. I am anxious to see the results. I am wondering if the huge 100hz spike is cause from the mounting location?

Measurements are taking at the driver's side head rest. What filters are you talking about? I did some testing to find out if my perforated vent was interfering with the performance of the driver. With the grill removed the overall response was about 2db higher. That tells me that the grill is slightly affecting output. The removal of the grill also created a nasty dip at 320hz. No AP mat, no grill AP mat, no grill

Have you ever ate at Wine on Third? If you haven't you should!

Thanks Rick! It would be nice if a "nice camera" was that easy....

Wife and I took a three day trip to Niagara, NY. We did not go onto the Canada side. Our next trip up there will be in Canada.

That truck looks nasty! Love it

It has been a couple weeks past this post^ Dont know if you have made your cables or not. The P3's are as short as I have found. I have 50 Streetwires 5.0 laying around and they are the same size. The issues is that the hole opening is small. Even after drilling them out a microphone cable is a super tight fit and honestly after a dap of solder on the grounds it is as tight as can possibly be. If you combine the ground and shield it becomes difficult to screw the outer jacket back on. I like to add heat shrink to the bare RCA ends the screw the outer jacket on, not a good idea with microphone cable. There just isnt room. Hard to make them look good and be 100% functional. Good luck

Sorry to hear

Damn, 8 10"ers is going to be nuts

I still have a 20db peak!

The dash looks great

I changed the view of the graphs which I believe is easier to see. I removed the AP mat to convert the enclosure to IB. Very interesting results. Overall the graph is similar but not quit as smooth as the AP install. Generally the AP mat install peaks higher. It looks as if the AP mat is a benefit. Base graph taken on 6.26.12, no EQ, AP mat installed. AP mat removed, no EQ I was expecting very different results. Any idea what is going on here? I am curious if my protective cavity that I installed inside the inner fender well is being resistive to air movement. This is the bottom of the cavity that the AP mat fires into. I have a protective gill at the base to help prevent water and debris from going into the cavity.

Nice carpeting skills!

I do have all of my drivers other than the JL Audio ZR800-CW. I will be use two RS100T-8 per a-pillar, same axis, same plane. What is wrong with that? I will be switching to IB by removing the AP mats. I agree the RS225 is a poor midbass. Bad decision on my part to use them to begin with. If both the Dayton are Usher are identical drivers, so be it. Since you brought it up, feel free to elaborate about it.