Tirefryr

Post a price please or we'll have to lock it.

I don't know what the market is like there, but Craigslist is a gold mine for cheap old trucks around here. You probably don't have to deal with snow a lot either, so I'm sure you could find a cheap 2WD for cheap.

You can go to www.car-part.com. They have an online database of yards and you can search by region, zip, etc. I won't deal with a place unless they have their inventory computerized and online, of course the only things I buy from a yard are drivetrain or interior parts.

Of course you still have some yards with the cranky old man running it who either doesn't want people on the property at all or doesn't give a damn about anything, but they are rare given all the goverment and EPA BS involved.

The internet and boom in computers has allowed them to modernize, increase efficiency, and cut back on overhead. Even the "dirty" businesses are cleaning up and realizing the value of modernization. MY dad runs a scrap yard and you would think it would be a nasty, dirty business, and while on the surface, at the yard, it is, it is also BIG MONEY and they have to keep exacting control of inventory and finances just like a bank.

would you get one of these for your own personal hotrod ... I'm not talking about a everyday drive back and forth to school / work car or truck ... Sure. I already have. The past two daily drivers I've had I purchased with blown engines and then went to the yard and got some transplants, and you need a daily driver to be more reliable than a hot rod. It's nothing like it was 10-20 years ago when they just bought cars and threw them in the yard. I currently have a couple engines sitting in my old man's barn for some projects as well.

Jordan, if you REALLY want to make it fast and reliable, you need a REAL heart transplant in the shape of an oval.

A 305 .30 over is a 310. That's no where near a 327. Add the "big valve" heads and you have nothing more than a top end scream machine. You still wouldn't have the torque or power you would have started off with in the 350 unless you also stroked it and did some major head and cam work. No shit ... I said similar, not exact ... and at the end, I said Then start modifing from there ... Sorry, my idea of similar is far closer.

Junkyards are sophisticated these days. Most pull all the parts themselves due to liability issues. They test everything before they pull it, so you know it works. They also include warranties in case the parts don't work. U-pick places will also carry a warranty, but usually only a couple weeks to a month, but even they will mark on it whether it runs, has keys, etc. Anyone who goes to a junk yard for an engine is smart enough to make sure they aren't getting a worthless engine. It's pretty simple to check for compression, oil pressure, and even get it running with a battery and come ether.

A 305 .30 over is a 310. That's no where near a 327. Add the "big valve" heads and you have nothing more than a top end scream machine. You still wouldn't have the torque or power you would have started off with in the 350 unless you also stroked it and did some major head and cam work.

50 bucks close enough to free? If I can ask what is so horrible about this engine/heads? J $50 isn't bad. Nothing necessarily horrible about it, but if it's seized, you may find you just spent $50 for a paper weight. Of course, it should scrap for around $70, so you could make some money. Seized or internally broken engines are a 50/50 proposition. You might get it torn apart and find you can't remove a piston or a rod has scraped a cylinder wall and it's too deep to be machined, etc. . . . Then you can't do anything with it aside from scrap it.

It's simple if you have the proper tools. Contrary to what others have stated, I would start with a larger bit just to get it centered in the screw. Once you notice it is, switch to the small bit about 1/8", then move up to a 3/16, then 1/4. The key is to pop the head off, of course, if it's just screwing blind into plastic, this is not going to help. You will need to extract the screw. Next time you do this, always try to tighten the screw first, then back out. It helps to relieve some pressure on the screw head. Remember, the metal twists and distorts once you begin to torque it, so it will spring back and cause surface tension and binding, so tightening first aids in breaking the tension. . . Some times.

It better be free.

If you couldn't remove the screws by hand, those cheap removers won't work. Drill the heads off, remove the radio, then take some vice grips and remove the remaining material from the other side. Don't worry about the need for a drill or tap. You will either have a speed nut or a course thread screw into plastic. It's probably the latter as many times when they install them on the assembly line, the friction caused by the screws threading melts the plastic and you end up with the issue you have here.

Yes huh. It's smaller and it moves faster, duh. The 15s are low and slow and pound out the mad lows.

Accessory bolts?

It's laminated glass. You don't have to worry about it shattering.

You won't find one that cheap unless you buy used.

Not even being a smart ass here brother. What is a Christmas Commando? Sounds like Cobra in Santa suits to me. J Christmas Commandos

The Christmas Commandos visited my sister and nephews this year. Very awesome people right there.

Forgot your pills today huh?

Finally getting some snow. Got all the presents wrapped and had a nice plate of nachos and cheese and realized halfway through that I forgot jalapenos. What an idiot!

I wonder if the aliens sit around and laugh at us.

I'll have to show that to my BIL. He brews at home.

He has the same disease, so he should know.