Tirefryr

Pouring smoke under boost means he's not doing it right. Smoke does not mean power. i think it just has something to do with how the mod works.. once the boost builds up enough it stops smoking. in a very nonscientific test we measured a 0-60mph time of ~10sec, my friend said it was closer to 13-14 before. the mod consist of bridging a potentiometer across 2 pins on the fuel harness. here's something from a tdi forum "...what is happening is that the 10-pin connector (joining the main wire from the ECU to the Injection Pump) is being hot-wired into producing a different voltage, which alters or magnifies the ECU's signal in a similar manner that a Tuning Box does. This increases the amount of fuel the injection pump pushes and advances the timing..." You probably trick the engine into thinking it gets more air that it actually getting. Stupid mod and no way it will shave 3-4 sec off the 0-60 time. It will overfuel whenever he's off-boost. Hello high EGTs. Retune, bigger injectors nozzles, bigger intercooler (stock one is a joke) and bigger exhaust for starters. Now that's how you would go about modding a TDI, not with a resistor. What he said. Not to mention black smoke (aka soot) is toxic to the lungs and the environment. but it smells delicious You enjoy the smell of diesel fuel?

Koo!

Some better lamps, upgrading the wiring harness and relays. You should be able to google or go to the corral and find info. I'm not saying you can't go the HID route, I'm just stating the only way to get true HID lighting and do it correctly without blinding other drivers is to have everything engineered to work together. Unfortunately, only the OEMs do this. The aftermarket kits have no engineering behind them, they just throw together enough stuff to make them work.

I'm not going to recommend anything. The car and it's lights were not designed for HIDs, therefore, you shouldn't be installing HIDs.

And mig and tig is a totally different world. I can stick weld like a pro, but when it comes to mig and tig, I totally suck. I can NEVER get the heat and wire speed right.

And R2 beat me to it. If you were close to me, I'd let you have one my two Lincoln's that have been sitting for the past 7 years.

Start out with brazing, then move on to stick/arc, then move to MIG. I would get on some welding forums. You're either good at it or you're not. There's no such thing as a mediocre welder. Thanks, I'm going to look into a cheap arc welder from HF and go from there. Don't bother with Harbor Freight. Check your local Craigslist and get a good Lincoln or Miller. You should be able to find one under $100 and it should come with the stinger and cabling. One of the most important things is to make sure your electrodes are kept dry and at a stable constant temp, but you'll get into that the more you learn.

The first thing you need is a proper housing designed for HIDs. Only then will they be worth a shit and not be another annoying, blinding mess on the road.

Start out with brazing, then move on to stick/arc, then move to MIG. I would get on some welding forums. You're either good at it or you're not. There's no such thing as a mediocre welder.

This might be a stupid question, but what will you do with it? Just use it like any other modern tractor? LOL. I'd store it here: http://www.rollag.com/index.php and run it for four days a year during the show. Have some stellar memories growing up there spending time with my father and I'd like that to continue both with him and my children. I would kill to see something like that around here. Throw in some locomotives and scantily clad women and I'd be in heaven.

That would be such an awesome toy! Traction engines FTMFW.

I need a blow job.

So somehow there is overspray from something all over my car and now I have to buff the fucker, but no pads or compound and no money. I can not catch a break.

Wait, what? I thought they just moved to China. Did not know they were bought out. Fuck.

I don't think these are for you. Have you ever heard and XBL^2 subwoofer? Many refer to them as "dry sounding." I don't exactly quite know how to put it into words, but they do sound different. The Auras are similar, not in relation to the XBL^2 drivers, but in their own right. Of course, it's been quite some time since I heard them, but there has only been a handful of drivers I've ever used that made a lasting impression on me. These were one of them.

Mechanics aren't usually temperature dependent....at least not away from where the state changes. Back to this, since I missed it; am I wrong in assuming resonant frequency changes with temperature, or is it simply negligible unless state changes as well? Wait, I think that's too general a question. Material would also be another variable correct?

Not sure. Thought about calling Aura's head designer to find out, but figured I should look on the internet first Those are the Mobile Reference drivers. They came out along with the originals but were tailored for automotive use. I remember auditioning a pair of these roughly 10-12 years ago, but could not justify spending $1K on a driver. IIRC, these were the first $1K retail driver in the automotive world. The specs are within uncertainty/repeatability of the NS drivers. Makes me want to buy a pair as I actually really like the way they look. Grill them most of the time with speaker fabric and then BAM take the grills off. If I had $400 to blow, there would be a pair vibrating my sac right now. I don't really have a need for them and have plenty of drivers that will do more or less what they will BUT I want them anyways. Guess who just happens to be looking for drivers? Are they on a sale or just reg pricing? Being as how they are buyouts, and they've not been seen on the retail market in some time, just like the rest of the Aura gear they're clearing out, you're likely to never see them again, so if you want some, get them now. As much as I have to laugh when comparing "sound quality" of subwoofers, these things will sound great and can get with loud little effort.

Mechanics aren't usually temperature dependent....at least not away from where the state changes. I was just trying to make a point that it only takes one variable to change. They can do all the engineering they want, but until they get real world data, they can never be 100% certain of anything. Something as large as heat soak could affect it, and something as small as a rock stuck in an out of balance tire could affect it as well. Actually no it couldn't. The resonance of the fuel rail can only be affected by geometry or material change. Exactly my point. While in motion, you have vibration and harmonics from everything else, metal expansion and contraction,worn bushings causing excess flex, broken springs causing metal twist etc. . . All this affects geometry, no? There's no way to pool all the variables, especially wear, and throw them in a computer and engineer for every one of them.

Not sure. Thought about calling Aura's head designer to find out, but figured I should look on the internet first Those are the Mobile Reference drivers. They came out along with the originals but were tailored for automotive use. I remember auditioning a pair of these roughly 10-12 years ago, but could not justify spending $1K on a driver. IIRC, these were the first $1K retail driver in the automotive world. The specs are within uncertainty/repeatability of the NS drivers. Makes me want to buy a pair as I actually really like the way they look. Grill them most of the time with speaker fabric and then BAM take the grills off. If I had $400 to blow, there would be a pair vibrating my sac right now.

Mechanics aren't usually temperature dependent....at least not away from where the state changes. I was just trying to make a point that it only takes one variable to change. They can do all the engineering they want, but until they get real world data, they can never be 100% certain of anything. Something as large as heat soak could affect it, and something as small as a rock stuck in an out of balance tire could affect it as well.

I'm sure they did, but as soon as the weather changes one degree, it shifts anyways. Too many variables to consider. Reality often trumps the best engineering.

Well, that's nice, but I haven't a clue what the fuck you are talking about.

No, it is BW3s.

Not sure. Thought about calling Aura's head designer to find out, but figured I should look on the internet first Those are the Mobile Reference drivers. They came out along with the originals but were tailored for automotive use. I remember auditioning a pair of these roughly 10-12 years ago, but could not justify spending $1K on a driver. IIRC, these were the first $1K retail driver in the automotive world.

Not really, smoother airflow = good Air does not flow through an enclosure, it's simply excited.