Tirefryr

SPL comps push drivers at and beyond their limits. Competitors are constantly repairing or replacing equipment. When you push it, things break.

You can never compare because they are all different applications and all behave differently.

It's only a dream.

I just want a good stable job where I don't have to deal with stupid people who think they're intelligent and have no common sense.

Waste of money. Get a board, some screws and a screwdriver and have at it.

My God, how do you work in that room with all that paneling? That shit drives me nuts.

You gotta siphon that shit the natural way. I hate the sound of those damn things BTW.

Sheet metal is a bitch. It's all about heat control. You always get warpage, but it's extremely difficult in an area like that around the curve and in a structural area around the moonroof. If you don't know how to shrink and stretch metal, take it to a body shop.

If it was paint, do you think I would of made a thread on how to fix paint? NO idea, I just want to see the damage. Growing up in a body shop, I find things like this interesting. Given the structure of the metal is all underneath, I want to see it. JB weld will do nothing. Your only option is to weld.

Let's see the underside.

Looks like just a paint/filler crack. Are you sure it's the sheet metal?

It depends on the driver(s). You can't make a blanket statement like that. So your disagreeing that the 2 12's wouldnt be better off in that kind of space? his budget is pretty high so he can get some pretty good subs, if i were him id try to get more cone area in that space restriction, im pretty sure thats not a blank statement its just common sense No, it's a blanket statement. What you're saying is that an 18" driver is not going to work as well in the same space. It all depends on the drivers. I can find several 18s that will work very effectively in that space, and I can find several that won't. Same goes for the twelves. Like I said it's all driver dependent.

It depends on the driver(s). You can't make a blanket statement like that.

If you think it's worth the money, go for it.

I wouldnt ever use a lms cone too me isnt that durable. How so?

For $25 per sub, it's pretty hard to beat. At worst you're out $100, box materials and some time for an experiment. That's a cheap experiment IMO. I'm pretty sure if you didn't like them, you could sell them.

If you want a good vented cheap 8" driver look here. Damn near identical to the TB. http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/55-2421&t=1

It's getting better. The only reason it sucks is because they are trying to follow the British version and they don't have the distinct personalities to pull it off.

LOL what do you suggest? I don't know, I've never had any.

I would use the butyl just for the extra "grip," err, surface tension. There, do I sound smarter?

Try some Indian food.

Stupid fucking lazy ass parents.

Yep, and the idea behind infinite baffle is there is no air spring on the driver, the only thing controlling the driver is the suspension and the idiot behind the volume knob. You could install them in this configuration and spend the labor making 100% sure the front wave is entirely sealed from the rear, but that would be (in this instance) nothing more than a sealed enclosure.

My 880 does this often. Well, it did. The contacts on the back of the faceplate were the problem. I would just shut the car off, then turn back on. Thoroughly clean your contacts with a pencil eraser, then wipe them with rubbing alcohol. Attach the faceplate, perform a reset and you should be good to go.

I think I may have some delrin around here that I could make you a 2pc bushing out of. Its pretty slippery stuff so I don't know if that will work for you or not. Hey Ryan, how is the Delrin in comparison to UHMW? I use the UHMW for actuator slides and love it, but it wears down quickly as much as they get used and I can't find an oil-imp bushing that will fit.