Tirefryr

Ah, well, I was hoping to be unique.

None of them are pretty aside from the T-bird.

This is going to be real simple. I just want sound. I'm not concerned with stage at all. Just some simple door pods, a component set, and some subs.

An isolator IS ideal given it works properly. They often leak voltage though, which pretty much makes them worthless. IF you're truly worried about running them in parallel, just put the auxiliary battery on a manual switch, and open the switch every time you turn the car off.

My other truck is an extended cab 95. I'm going to part it out, so let me know if you need something. It is pretty rusty though, so body parts won't be plentiful.

So are you clearing out Hellion dustcaps?

Their amps are pretty good. I got the 5 channel for my nephew and it's fantastic. Given the price, I think they're worth a shot.

An I missing something here? The Hellions turned back into Gcons?? Did the coding get messed up on the store?

I have a spare truck so I can take my time and fab some shit up, but hell if I'm going to do that, I'm just going to cut the cab and float an enclosure in the bed.

I've used the Daytons before. I didn't care for them. Well, I used one at least. It replaced a Lanzar Neo 12. Those were basically Illusion Nd ripoffs, but it was $30, so. . .

Why are you using an isolator?

So I visited the JL spot. Of course the drivers performed well, but I just don't think I am impressed enough to spend $375 per woofer. They won't budge on price at all. I don't see these things anywhere, so it's not like they're flying off shelves, and I get the design and patent costs, but I can find more for the buck I think.

IF you have a 2.5 it's NA. The only Ecoboost in the Escape is either the 1.5 or 2.0.

As much as I love the Ecoboost engines, the direct injection turns me away. The Coyote is the choice for me. It's easier, cheaper, sounds better, ultimately will make more power and they'll go for a couple hundred K with just normal maintenance. The Ecoboost will need several combustion chamber cleanings in the same time and possibly even more maintenance. You'll already be buying used also, so there's no telling how it's been treated. The V8 is just the better bet IMO. Don't sleep on the 6.2 either. WONDERFUL engine, but I don't think they put it in many 150s. It's thirsty though. Don't forget to check Tundras. Not sure if you like them, but if I had real truck money, that's what I'm buying.

Going to the JL dealer tomorrow. Spoke with another old school manufacturer on the phone a little while ago and I really liked what I heard there, so I may go that route.

Sun Drop all over the place up here.

I know some people from out West and they've ever heard of it.

Believe it or not, I had one of these in my old GMC. I was not too impressed with it. Not in these doors. Easily, but I won't bother with an 8" unless I absolutely have to. I've emailed and called AB to no avail. I'm generally just disinterested in a company who puts out a product with insufficient information and when you try to ask for help, you get none.

No Bubba Cola, but we still have RC up here.

No, I need to keep the bench. If I was going the console route, I'd use my Ultimax 18.

It's a rusty 94 F-150. I've done 3 standard cab installs in my life. All of them have had severe modification to the sheet metal. I don't want to go that route here.

Well, I'm looking to painlessly install some stuff in my truck I don't feel like cutting and welding and I MUST retain all of my bed, so the only space available is behind the seat, I've done some research and the best value to me for my buck seems to be the JL 12TW3. I was looking at the Alpine Type Rs, but I'm not spending $600 for one driver. . . From Alpine. . . That's just absurd. Does anyone have any input or experience with any other brands?

That will work, but just as simple to drill and tap together. It's especially helpful if you use a drill press. Not for tapping of course.

You got it. Just like most fuse and distribution blocks are made from brass.

On the contrary. Drill and tap them together. It's the ONLY way to guarantee a perfect thread engagement. If you do them separately, the threads will not align properly. I've drilled and tapped thousands of buss bars. In regards to aluminum on amps, the terminals are actually brass. They are plated for corrosion resistance and it gives the look of aluminum.