Everything posted by Tirefryr
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That could be your best bet for mileage, but I don't know any specifics on the truck. If it's lifted, geared differently, or tuned, it's gonna eat some more fuel, you may have a heavy foot as well. There's just no way to tell. As for the computer, they are so full of shit. They (the Ford dealer) can attach a diagnostic data logger to the truck and it will measure and record EVERYTHING. There is no need for them to keep the vehicle. How are they going to log stuff with one of their techs driving? Same way they will with you driving. They're just being dicks. You seem to not be happy with the truck, so your best bet may just be moving on to something else. Good luck!
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I don't get it. They cleared the codes and the light is back on. All they have to do is scan the damn thing again and read it. Why do they need to keep the vehicle or drive it for an extended period of time? They also have the ability to install a data logger that will read and store all information while you drive; it is not necessary for them to keep the vehicle.
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BEWARE of tejcurrent
This guy hasn't delivered products in half a year and couldn't make good on all those, yet he accepts money for more brackets a mere month ago?
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Prince Fielder is a FUCKING HOSS!
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sundown nightshade hmmmmm
I heard Cerwin Vega makes Sundown . . . . Seriously, people are stretching here and really have no clue.
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. . . And Matt2's question is a trick question. Thumbs are technically not fingers.
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Welcome to the IHoP
How do you put a giraffe in a refrigerator? Cut that motherfucker up with a chainsaw, tip the fridge on it's back, fire up the wood chipper and start feeding it giraffe parts. Direct the discharge into the fridge and bam you're done.
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Ideas on vehicle repair because of bass
Red loctite and possibly a new bolt. That's not from bass, it's a common problem on Explorers and Mountaineers both second and third gens. The last two trucks I had, I just drilled and tapped them and ran a longer bolt through with an acorn nut on the outside painted black. I've done this repair on 6 trucks so far and none of them have had an issue since.
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Really? Wow! That doesn't mean the idiot working the machine didn't press the wrong buttons.
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I don't know what to tell you other than the dealership is suspect, or AZ cleared the codes and most were old, hence the dealer only reading two. I don't know what to say about the mileage either. I don't know what kind of mileage you are getting and don't know whether it's normal or not. The previous owner could have had the truck tuned so that could have changed everything, and I don't know if the dealership would have picked up on it. Keep in mind that you are in a big heavy truck, and contrary to the smaller engines, the truck diesels are no where near as efficient as the smaller diesels you see in compact and midsize cars getting 50+ mpg.
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Pulling the battery doesn't mean that all the codes will clear. What is the truck? Both were replaced. 2006 F-250 Turbo Diesel King Ranch Edition. I didn't have a check engine light on until about 450 miles into it, and it was eating gas like crazy. Already been to and around Tucson once before this trip. First time on it didn't budge off the Full line until I got off the highway. Same conditions of driving again, as I exited the high way it was at 3/4 tank. Its got a 29 gallon tank and the Check Engine light came on. I just found it odd that Auto Zone found 9 codes and the stealership found 2. Just doesn;t make any damn sense. The claimed the light went out when they cleared the codes, they test drove it (couldn't say how far, or up to what speeds) and it didn't come back on. Just doesn't sit well with me on a truck thats costing me a bit of cash, and that's just over 146K on a diesel. J 1. Dealerships exist solely to steal your money. Find a competent independent diesel mechanic ASAP. 2. The IH 6.0L turbo diesel was the worst diesel engine in a Ford ever. Do some research and you'll find all the problems with them. 3. Don't ever go to AutoZone to get codes checked. If you have a smartphone, you can buy a code reader and do it yourself, or refer back to number 1. 4. Automotive computers like regular computers have two types of memory, or file locations if you will. They have a temporary file and a memory file. Everything is stored in the memory until a hard reset by computer or disconnecting power for a prolonged period of time, which can be several minutes to several hours. 1) Only ones worth a shit are in Tucson. 2) Done and done. You are correct. 3).............I need to buy a code reader for myself anyways. Why the 'distrust' in them to check codes correctly bro? Not saying that they are perfect or even close to, but you are the first person I have heard say that. 4) I don't know how long they need but when a truck has dual batteries, and has them both replaced, I would have to assume that anything stored for codes would go away. And if the codes were still in existance why would it take 493 miles for the check engine light to turn on? Since in the state of AZ even if no extended warranty is purchased they must cover the vehicle for 15 days or 500 miles whichever comes first, all I want is for them to honor this, and since they 'fixed it' by clearing the codes, cover it if I have to take it to Ford for the exact same problem again. Or COMPLETELY fix the issue now, not just clear codes. I had my truck about a week when this happened and I called about this about 435 miles into owning the truck, was told to bring it in, and had 493 on it when they received it, how it takes 493 miles for 'pre-existing' codes to show up is beyond my realm of understanding. To me the options break down like such (in no order) - Fix the fucking issue(s) completly....don't just 'hide' them - Since you 'fixed' it , cover it at Ford if it happens again within say 3-6 months. SAME ISSUE nothing else. - Take my down payment and put it it towards a new truck beacuse I am not buying another used. - Give me my down payment back in full in either cash or check form (I paid with my debit card). I will gladly take my business elsewhere. - Don't help me. The truck will sit there while I contact my lawyers and Dodge Corporate. If you won't help me, I will take it to court to get out of it, have Dodge know what kind of shitty shady shit you are up to, and ensure that the Military base has you 'black listed' for fraud. That is well over 50% of your business, and will force people to the only other 'chain' of dealerships in town Lawly. congrats they now have a monopoly. J I don't trust Autozone or Pep Boys, or any of those idiots to check codes. Their code readers are generic and often repeat the codes. AS for the discrepancy between the dealership and AZ, it all depends. If you went to AZ first, then they could have accidentally erased the codes and when you went to the dealership, you only had two issues. If you went to the dealer first, you had two issues, and had more when you went to AZ. Keep in mind, they don't always keep the check engine light on. Some codes will flash it, some codes will light it constantly, some codes it will come on and off sporadically with. Now, I know very little about diesel, but if you are using too much fuel, you will be seeing it in the form of black smoke out the tail pipe. Are you sure you don't just have a heavy foot? Is the truck running bad?
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Pulling the battery doesn't mean that all the codes will clear. What is the truck? Both were replaced. 2006 F-250 Turbo Diesel King Ranch Edition. I didn't have a check engine light on until about 450 miles into it, and it was eating gas like crazy. Already been to and around Tucson once before this trip. First time on it didn't budge off the Full line until I got off the highway. Same conditions of driving again, as I exited the high way it was at 3/4 tank. Its got a 29 gallon tank and the Check Engine light came on. I just found it odd that Auto Zone found 9 codes and the stealership found 2. Just doesn;t make any damn sense. The claimed the light went out when they cleared the codes, they test drove it (couldn't say how far, or up to what speeds) and it didn't come back on. Just doesn't sit well with me on a truck thats costing me a bit of cash, and that's just over 146K on a diesel. J 1. Dealerships exist solely to steal your money. Find a competent independent diesel mechanic ASAP. 2. The IH 6.0L turbo diesel was the worst diesel engine in a Ford ever. Do some research and you'll find all the problems with them. 3. Don't ever go to AutoZone to get codes checked. If you have a smartphone, you can buy a code reader and do it yourself, or refer back to number 1. 4. Automotive computers like regular computers have two types of memory, or file locations if you will. They have a temporary file and a memory file. Everything is stored in the memory until a hard reset by computer or disconnecting power for a prolonged period of time, which can be several minutes to several hours.
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Some manufacturers ground through the antenna.
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I'd replace the fuel filter, then the pump. Odd are both are original. Hard start is usually an ignition or fuel problem. Do you know how to read spark plugs?
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I don't get it.
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Help with stealing my girlfriend's car lol
Grow up.
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O/S orion XTR 12s, what are they worth?
Come on now, it builds your forearms.
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Nothing like trying to sleep while every person in the nation is lighting off fireworks.
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Did they actually post that shit? I can't imagine how many heads rolled if they did.
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O/S orion XTR 12s, what are they worth?
Pull them out of the box for more pics and get the model number off the back.
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Coconut oil FTMFW! Sesame oil if she's Asian.
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This reads like a quote from a retired porn actress.
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I want to go fishing. . . And golfing. Golfing more so than fishing, but I'd really like to fuck some big titties.
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Where's der engine.