Everything posted by Tirefryr
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Shouldn't matter. It's just inducing a current. There should be no polarity, so what else is there that could be wrong?
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Wideband/Full range speaker suggestions - A Pillars
Get some UV curing resin and you're set. You could also build a small heat room with a large cardboard box and a heater to keep the temp up. Done this many times in an unheated garage.
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SSA Hellion (all new)
I don't see them here. Was a post deleted?
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Wideband/Full range speaker suggestions - A Pillars
I was going to suggest the Mark Audio as well. Last year I was contemplating a full range setup and I work with a guy who is a home audio nut. He turned me onto the Marks. They are FABULOUS full range drivers! With that being said, if I was to do a 2-way, I would NOT be using the SLS 8s. Those are quite a bit bottom heavy and roll off quite steep on the top end. I'd pick something that can hang more up to 500 or so.
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Question on gluing surround.
That black line is just residue. Is the actual surround physically separating? From that photo there is no visible separation
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Gittin R DUN!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Make sure she's attentive to the sack while she's down there!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Apparently we're supposed to get some snow today then warm up into the 40s. Hopefully I can get the Mustang done this weekend.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
So what you're really saying is you never should have purchased it.
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Reason to get 2 vs 4 ohm subwoofer, same exact except ohm?
Yes, but you're overthinking it. Use your ear to set the gain. The driver will tell you when you're at the limit. I've not yet had any experience with the Hellion, but the other SSA subs I have and they have all been great. I have no reason to believe the Hellion will be any different.
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Reason to get 2 vs 4 ohm subwoofer, same exact except ohm?
The impedance of the sub has nothing to do with power requirements, nor does the RMS for that matter. That being said, of those three, I would go with the Sundown. It's cheaper, it's proven, and it's proven. I've never heard of the other two, and personally, I'd hesitate to give anyone $300 of my money for an unproven product.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Good to see you're keeping with tradition.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Work.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Highest speed limit in Indiana is 70 and on a few select roads. Most roads are 55-60.
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Reason to get 2 vs 4 ohm subwoofer, same exact except ohm?
Funky Pup or die!
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Amp or HU crossover, and HU suggestions
The Pioneer I linked you to is the same way, albeit with 31 band and some other stuff.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
I was in Austin last night, tonight in Victoria, and back to Austin tomorrow.
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Holy shit! Texas is AWESOME! LOVE the speed limit! . . And the food so far. BBQs everywhere, and FRESH meat!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Saw this the other day. Never seen any SSA local, so this was koo!
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Reason to get 2 vs 4 ohm subwoofer, same exact except ohm?
Pay no attention to power ratings. You can not under power a speaker. When I say driver, that's just a different term for speaker, subwoofer, etc. . . So a quality driver would be a subwoofer of quality design and build that fits your application. The old adage of "you get what you pay for," certainly applies here, but it is pretty simple to spend as little as $100 and still get a quality sub. If you want to use SSA, subs, I highly recommend them. I have no experience with the new drivers, but do with the older stuff, and they make a quality product with excellent service. As for the processing, you can try the LOC. I don't know how the factory handles processing. Some are done in the headunit, but most have a separate processor/amplifier combo. I would do a bit more research to see if could tap into the signal before it is processed such as getting it straight off the head before it hits the factory processor or amplifier.
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Reason to get 2 vs 4 ohm subwoofer, same exact except ohm?
Keep in mind you're likely to encounter some processing of the signal from the factory electronics. This is most likely a bass attenuation as volume increases. I don't know for sure how the Acura system works, but you'll know it when you hear it.
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Reason to get 2 vs 4 ohm subwoofer, same exact except ohm?
JL products are not expensive because they're a name brand, they are expensive because they are a premium manufacturer. All of their products are great and in demand and demand drives pricing. Let's throw the SQ term out the window in regards to subwoofers, it's a fallacy. While certain drivers excel better in certain areas, most subwoofers are going to sound the same. You can spend $100 and it can sound just like another $500 driver that is a "sound quality" driver, AND they can both easily get loud. You're covering a small range in the spectrum here. Just focus on picking a quality driver that will work for your application. Narrow down your driver and how you're going to apply it, then pick an amp.
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Amp or HU crossover, and HU suggestions
I think that year Wrangler is a single DIN. If so, I recommend this Pioneer. I am running two of them myself and love them. The Pioneer app makes phone integration very fluid. https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130DS5120B/Pioneer-DEH-S5120BT.html
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
You are not their target market. Hell, even I'm not. They're just not going to cater to us. Well, for the most part. I love the Genesis comparison though; that's a GREAT point!
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Welcome to the IHoP v.2
Have you been inside a Mazda lately? Their interiors are simply amazing, especially considering their pricing compared to others. Even their plastic bits have a soft touch to them. I don't think they have the resources or need to have a dedicated luxury line. Their target consumer is budget minded. It's always been that way for them. RWD is covered by the coveted Miata, err MX-5. There is also a new RX in the works as well that I believe they are planning on being a budget friendly Supra.