Tirefryr

I did not like that movie. I didn't get it until the end was pretty confusing. Still don't get it. Everything looked cool as shit though. I disagree. I don't like the mix of animation/live film. It never works.

This was leaked somewhere a couple years ago. It was the fat American guy they had on the first season that leaked a bunch of info.

You can series anything with voice coils. Pretend each of these speakers are tweeters. You forgot to replace the woofer pics with tweeter pics.

PUNCTUATION! That would require to much work for most. :-( It's easy to pick out the lazy and those who paid no attention in school. Or those who are just naturally stupid.

Subs and Sound Quality. Ha Ha.

PUNCTUATION!

Your missing the ability to series speakers together instead of parallel. Yes, he is. It may also be a series-parallel circuit.

I did not like that movie.

IMO, 3D is worthless on TV or movies. It does not make the movie or TV feel more real, and the glasses are more a hinderance that anything.

I had 3 tens in this box and it was less than 30" wide.

While this is mostly true, just because the driver is capable of more throw than the other, doesn't mean it is going to use it.

Useful! Why ? Especially in a well designed link system. No shit. I can't even figure out how they'd work in this instance. That was my reaction; here are Lakewood's offerings These are for listed for '64-'77 GM's These are listed for '78-87 GM's These are listed for '79-'95 Mustangs/Capris Competition Engineering sells similar kits as well :puzzled: I understand their theory, but the trailing arms are already locating the axle and controlling wrap, so I see no need for the traction bars. I don't know what instance you are thinking of, but they add strength and support when you have a lifted vehicle OR are offroading or racing (any kind). I don't know what you plan on doing. How so? You are locating and controlling the axle with the link system. How is the traction bar installed as shown in the photos going to help? If you have enough distortion in the system to make them work, the initial design is piss poor and the bars are nothing but a band aid for a weak design. Let's take the Fox platform Mustang for instance, since the bars are available for them. 4 link opposed rear end. The upper links are great, but stamped steel and prone to flex. A simpled piece of steel welded between the stampings increases their tortional rigidty tenfold. The lowers are also stamped and weak, but the aftermarket has produced simple cheap replacements made of DOM. Along with a stiffer durometer bushing or heim joints, the axle stays were it needs to. The traction bar would provide no aid in this instance or any other link system. Leaf springs are a different story.

Useful! Why ? Especially in a well designed link system. No shit. I can't even figure out how they'd work in this instance. That was my reaction; here are Lakewood's offerings These are for listed for '64-'77 GM's These are listed for '78-87 GM's These are listed for '79-'95 Mustangs/Capris Competition Engineering sells similar kits as well :puzzled: I understand their theory, but the trailing arms are already locating the axle and controlling wrap, so I see no need for the traction bars.

Useful! Why ? Especially in a well designed link system. No shit. I can't even figure out how they'd work in this instance.

Go over to TermPro.com. They used to be big over there.

I change my plugs every year, so I use the best plug ever made, the simple, cheap, copper plug. The ONLY positive thing about the different metal plugs are the fact that you can run them for tens of thousands, some even hundreds of thousands, of miles before a change. The metals are harder and do no degrade or corrode as easily as copper. They do not deliver any better performance and could even hinder it slightly. Think about it. . . Do you run copper wire to speakers or do you use iridium or platinum? Which is the better conductor? The same applies to plugs and wires, hell any electrical part of the vehicle.

Happy Berfday R2!!!!!!

Didn't he make some 700HP raptor? .... I wonder why he left the power so low. 575 is low?

When did you get married?!

He'll have to drive it, not just let it run. It will have to cycle through a couple open/closed loops to worlk everything out.

Happy Berfday!!! You didn't hang out with Dracula?

You could do it either way.

You are getting a little too anxious IMO. Forget the 18 or 21 idea, hell even 15 if you want trunk space. Pretty much any driver will work in an IB alignment, you just have to make sure you do all your homework and do as much as possible to completely separate the front and rear waves. I think this is your best bet here. I don't know what the deck looks like in that vehicle, but you seem to want something with a little bit of volume, so I would try to fit a pair of 10s or 12 in the deck IB, and work the rest out from there. No need for an enclosure taking up room and gives you many options with amplification. The effeciency and low(er) power handling of the IB system nulls the need for a large sub amp which eases the strain on the electrical system which means less money on wire, batteries, alts, and cooler temps. It's a no-brainer.

I have experience with 3 of the drivers on my first list and one of them is the JL. I can tell you it's a nice driver, but not worth the coin. If it were around $250-$300, it would be worth it, but in comparison to the other drivers available, I think you get more bang for your buck going elsewhere. Which three do you have the direct experience with? Pros or cons of those. I won't say much as some people will say I am biased due to some previous ties, but aside from the high price tag of the JL, I don't fell any of them have any cons. They are all very effective at producing adequate amounts of sub bass in a diminutive package, but some work better in smaller enclosures, and some need some more power. The greatest problem with all of them though is, that as with most things, people will want more and these types of drivers are more naturally susceptible to mechanical and thermal damage.

I have experience with 3 of the drivers on my first list and one of them is the JL. I can tell you it's a nice driver, but not worth the coin. If it were around $250-$300, it would be worth it, but in comparison to the other drivers available, I think you get more bang for your buck going elsewhere.