Tirefryr

I'll give you a million dollars if you can saw through a spring with ANY sawzall blade in less than a day.

I was told they come with either or and/or both, so the only way to know for sure is to check your vehicle.

YOu have to let me know where you had the plexi engraved. I'm not digging my etching anymore.

Very fishy. Poor car. Those things sound so sweet!

YOu know, I used to be the same way. It'll change as you get older and come into more money. Once your budget allows and you're able to "step up" to the higher priced gear, you begin to get an understanding of why some products are more than others.

Old school solos rule! If these new drivers are as good, can't imagine them not being, you know I'm getting some.

Koo. I'll let you know tomorrow.

What year is your car? Two guys I work with are certified Daimler Chrysler Master tech for years, so I can get any info you need.

Well, scratch this idea. I was just informed of my own stupidity on the matter. Damn stupid me.

And the difference between a shock and strut is the shock will only control up and down motion. You can remove a shock and the vehicle will still funtion. A strut compbines the action of a shock, but it is also another integral part of the suspension system as a whole. If you vehicle has a strut instead of a shock and you remove it, you will not be able to drive the vehicle due to the other suspension pieces not being connected to the vehicle. Not all struts have coil-over spring setups which are called a MacPherson type strut. Take my Cobra for example. I have struts on the front, but they connect the spindle to the caster/camber plates. Remove the struts and you have a flopping A-arm and spindle/hub/rotor. The particular design on the Mustang, stock, is a coil spring seated in the A-arm cup with the other end sitting in the K-member. Now, I switched to coil-overs, but I still retain the struts. If I were to go with a dual A-arm front suspension, the strut would be removed and a shock added in the middle of the coil spring which would now be placed in between the short and long arms. Out back they use a standard shock setup. The spring is held in place by a perch on the lower control arms and another perch attached to the unibody. I can remove the shock and have no adver effect on the movement of the car other than crappy handling and no damping control, but the vehicle will still be driveable.

I'm guessing you probably have struts at all 4 corners.

YOu should see an NMRA meet. The street class has to take a 30 mile drive before they can race to prove their cars are street worthy. You'll see a line of Mustangs for miles depending on the event locale. It's pretty cool to see a long line of cars just rumbling down the street for a while.

I have rattles, vibrations and wind noise coming from everywhere.

But I'll buy $2K worth of audio for it!

My struts on the Taurass are original. 141K and man they need some help. I just can't bring myself to drop $250 on the turd.

I see your point. Hmm. I guess they might split the difference between the batteries for truck use. 24V starter is simple. Change the field coils. Only problem would be adapting a solenoid to a PMGR starter. Maybe I'll just build a bigger alt and run on 12 volts with a constant 40 shot of NAWS! Trunk full of bass and bottles.

Cheap 24V electrical system, less current draw, less heat, smaller load on the engine, and less/smaller cable.

Just get the subs. Konis on a Stratus? Why? It's a Stratus. . . We all know the ONLY decent Chrysler product worth putting any time and money into is the Viper. Yea she might be a stratus but i still have to drive her, so i might as well have fun while i do. Understood, but if you're after better performance, why not save that money and look for cheaper older sports car. Your money would be much better spent on a better platform. More fun. Initial investment may be more, but in the long run, you'll save money and have more fun.

Just get the subs. Konis on a Stratus? Why? It's a Stratus. . . We all know the ONLY decent Chrysler product worth putting any time and money into is the Viper. Chrystler has come up with some cool cars that actually went into production. Better than anything chevy or ford has made besides the gt40. You're entitled to your opinion, but it's common knowledge and fact, that pretty much ever Chrysler vehicle for the past 30-35 years is just junk. Except the Viper of course. It's about time they actually started implementing the MB parts so they can actually have some quality. And don't argue with me cuz I'm always correct.

I hate my coilovers. May be the fact that them coupled with my strut tower brace and 400lb. springs sends every single vibration right throught the dash and the wheel. We'll see how she works with a softer spring. The look lovely though. Can't beat the Germans in terms of engineering.

Can't wait to see the Zaph results. He's usually spot on and a great reference IMO.

That's my reasoning behind this. I have no desire to build and market these for sale. Strictly for my own use. 400 amps of current draw means about 40HP just to drive the alt. No thanks. I know it won't be a continuous draw, but I have access to the 24alts cheap, and if I can get some amps built that will run on 24 volts, that's half the current, heat, and less/smaller cable. Implementation onto the vehicle will be simple as far as the rest of the 12V electronics are concerned. There are many trucks and farm equipment that have 24V charghing/starting systems. A pair of 12V cells in series and tap off one for 12V, both for 24. I just don't know how the different voltages will interact and I'm looking for some more opinions on the amplifiers sturcture as I know little about electronics. This guy I'm working with says it can be done, but I want to get the most input as possible.

I'm off to see the wizard. . . The wonderful wizard of POONTANG PIE!

Witht the increased vent area, the vent length will be greater therefore taking up more enclosure volume. To offset this factor, the gross volume of the enclosure would have to be increased to account for the greater vent volume therefore necessitating a physically larger overall enclosure.