Tirefryr

That's beautiful!

Well, isn't that lovely. BTW, your spelling looks correct, but the punctuation is the limiting factor.

The New Saleens are so sweet!

Gm Smallblock agreed. May be broad, but it's usefulness and longevity is just as broad. The Ford 5.0L. It paved the way for today's performance market when it was almost lost due to economy cars becoming the norm. It's stout and powerful and takes very well to modification. The GM 3.8L and 3800 of today and the last 25 years. I have experience with this engin and it is a tank. It will last for quite some time even when neglected. I'm going to stop there. There's really just too many good engineering marvels to count. Let's not forget all the old Auburn/Cord, Duesenburg, Benz, etc, inline 8,10, and 12 cylinders from YEARS ago. I know that's past 25 years, but those are tanks as well.

Another vote for keeping it simple. It's always easier and most of the time, will sound better IMO. Why switch drivers and alignments just to make it more complicated, or just to use an equalizer? If you don't NEED it, don't do it.

X2!!! We need more info as well to help you. Does the radio power on at all? All Stock components? First thing you should have done was call the dealer. Don't mess with anything else as they may say you screwed it up by trying to fix it.

No, but all the other accesories, alt, caps, etc. . . . could be sending voltage back through.

I have heard/seen different. The first HCCA I had was sold to a friend. I installed it @1ohm the bass would hit and drop the car to a very ow voltage. Eventually one day it went up n smoke. We called Orion and that is what the tech explained to me had happened. I dont know... Could very well be true, but with today's electronics, it should just shut the amp off.

YO!

Test it on a battery or charger. If it works properly, you have a malfunction in your wiring.

DAMN! We used to throw around 1" pieces of just the insulation. In just the right spot that can knock you out. I can't imagine getting wacked over the head with an entire piece!

Justin, the low voltage should not fry the amp, rather it just will not work.

Goodnight all!

YO CRAKAS!

Drip. . . . Drip. . . . Drip. . . . .

Pics here, http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=4039

Some people wanted to see some larger cable so here you go. This is a shot of three-conductor 750MCM next to a 2" IMC coupling. The coupling is 2.5" in diameter so that gives you an idea of how large this stuff is. Picture is misleading though as the cable is actually about 3.1" in diameter. This stuff weighs 18lbs. per foot!!! And here's a shot of 750kcmil next to the three-conductor. This stuff is no joke. It can handle over 10Kamps of current!!! I have some even large stuff, but it was buried on a spool and I couldn't get to it to take some photos. And last but not least, my favorite big'uns!

Did you get a box marked "red basket" yet?

Another battery is just another load on the alternator. If it is straining now, the extra battery will do no good. The biggest problem with HO alts is that they only work with higher RPMs, not idle speeds. Problem with that is most get dimming and low voltage problems at idle. No way in hell the manufacturer is going to tell you this. They'll lose a sale. The HO alt will simply not cure this, unless spun faster, basically upping the voltage.

Something is wrong with the meter as well. No wway it could possibly read 56 volts. If it is, something is wrong with it. If you were seeing a true 56 volts, your vehicle would be black and crispy by now.

James, cool pics!

Kent pretty much hit the nail on the head, but I used grill guides instead of fasteners. It allows for toolless removal, and it the quickest way.

I hate fleece! Nice work so far, and wrinkles are your enemy!! I think you know that by now.

Of course it is, but not a typical overhead cable. Those are highvoltage cables. Highvoltage cables are relatively small as they don't carry much current. I'll have some pics tomorrow.