Tirefryr

Kent, I haven't made it to FedEx yet, but I'm trying to get there today. $hit keeps coming up. Sorry man.

My personal opinion: A good company that will actually take care of it's workers and provide them a positive working environment and attitude will not need a union. Of course, with larger workplaces, this is difficult if not impossible to find. People become numbers and that's where problems start. When I was an electrician, I was union, of course. IBEW. Now all locals are different and their "strenght" will be dependant upon their members and officials. Ours was WEAK, I got screwed. I was fired after being ill for quite some time. Had doctors excuses and everything. Unfortunatelt, my supervisor, whom I turned all my paperwork into, was rather lazy and forgetful and my paperwork got pushed by the wayside. I was also in fault, as I did not think to have him sign them. We had a great working relationship and I figured I would be taken care of. Boy was I. Long story short, I devoted 6 years to this company and had gone from a laborer to a crew leader in just 3 years. Whenever they needed last minute overtime, I was always the one. Whenever they needed out of a jam, I was always the one. When the chit came down on me, I was .003% over the time allotted for being absent, which came out to exactly 32 seconds. I was fired. No questions asked. FOR 32 freaking seconds!!!! They never factor in all the extra effort you give them working past your normal shifts. And my union. No fight at all. They said there was no way it would stand in court. My ass still hurts.

I've seen that a million times. They're both idiots if you ask me. Clearly anyone can deduce the guy with the TA is full of BS just by watching the interview. And the guy with the Cobra. What a real man. . . To call someone out on the internet and make a retarded video. . . How mature......... Idiots.....

That's wonderful!

A true work of art!

Change the fuses anyway just for the hell of it. I can't tell you haw many times I've had a component come with a cheap ass overseas fuse that looks and tests fine, but will not flow electrons. That ticks me off.

I agree with the rest. That deal is really impossible to pass up if the funds allow.

Ah, but we don't know what is inside or how the actual pieces are manufactured. Keep in mind he said they are all "HAND BUILT IN THE USA." That right there will drive the price up considerably. And for good reason. While we're on the subject; Any info on the design/layout and components used? People complain about Zapco's prices, but open up a Zapco amp and you'll know why they cost so much.

"This site is temporarily unavailable."

The Captains! Don't ask me.

Check the Soundsplinter section and you'll find everything you're looking for.

Call Crutchfield and ask their opinion of them. The only complaint I have about the HUs I've owned in the past is they have a cheap feel to them. I've had great success witheverything else they have. In fact, I just got rid of my last Velocity amp a couple weeks ago. It was one of the original ones with the HUSH circuitry.

Nice buddy, NICE!

I have been told by MANy reputable people that the ID V3s are actually a step up from the IDQV2s. That being said, you know they will perform. I have heard they can get quite loud as well. SD runs specials on them all the time, so personally, I feel it would be a bargain.

I'm looking at the xB. The price is right and it has the most cargo room. Very important!! Not worried atall about sportiness; it's an economy car and that's exactly what I'm looking at. I've searched for demos and loaners and I really haven't found any worth buying. Rules that out at the moment. As far as the Cobra is concerned, it's surprisingly well on all the aspects except room. It get's 20mpg in the city and on the occasional highway romp, I've achieved a high of 32mpg. Can't complain about that. Maintenance has practically been nothing. Change the plugs every year and oil when needed. There's $50 and a couple hours of time. CHEAP in my book. It does need tires, but 17" tires are super-cheap nowadays. I just don't want to have to put the mileage on it and have it sitting in a parking lot unattended, and open to the elements. Add into that, the fact that it does have 45K on it and anything may take a $hit whenever it wants. Damn domestics! I just want something where I'll have ZERO maintenance (aside from routine oil and filter changes) and will be under warranty for the next two years that gets exceptional around-town milage. The Scion seems to fit the bill perfectly. I was going to go test drive one today and check it out, but it's raining. Poo. Thanks for all the suggestions. And whoever mentioned the Bimmer, I'm going to wait on that. I have something up my sleeve for a couple years down the road hopefully.

I loved those OLD RFs with those damn flat heat sinks. They ran HOT as hell though. After 45 minutes, you could cook dinner on one.

Night fellas! I need some beauty sleep. Getting ugly.. . .er. . .

Insurance is also a big deal. Thanks for the though. I will NOT get a truck, no matter the make or model. I am not a truck person at all. I don't know what to do. I have very little time to get all this done. I would at best be $7500 extra in debt and have a brand new vehicle. I figure that is really tough to beat, especially considering the traveling. Once I graduate and move on to the BMW STEP program (fingers crossed), that takes me into Aaron's territory (Columbia, MD). I will be doing quite a bit of traveling and want to basically have a problem free car for the next 2 years.

Sweet! Thanks! I need all the opinions I can get.

I'm going insane.

I don't see this being a problem with the CEA standards. If they are going to list the output and voltages, they should include current consumption and efficiency. This can be simply calculated if need be, but why not list typical consumption with music and sines. To me, that would just be an added bonus and attract me more to that particular brand to know that they took the time and effort to go above and beyond.

The pictures on their website show the power wire hardwired into the board. Or at least that's how it appears to me. Are there normal connectors on the end? And can the LED readout be deleted?

Keep talking. I'm liking what I hear. Only beef I have is the hardwired power cable.

Not by me, but you never know.