Tirefryr

The reasoning behind that is that in-tank pumps use the fuel as a coolant. The less fuel there is around them, the more heat will build up. This is normally not a concern if you have at least an eight of a tank. This is not why the pump quit. Matter of fact, I have yet to see a pump die from overheating. His 1/2 tank theory is BS. I have several issues of Undercar Digest to disprove whatever he says, and enough experience and COMMON SENSE! Tell him I said he's an idiot!

Hey Aaron, If Dom can make the large case GM unit work on yours, let me know. I just bought a 220 amp from him in the SD group buy, but I have no use for it now. I'll make you a killer deal. would we ship it to him? and swap cases? I don't know. You'd have to contact Dom on that one. He will have all the info. I have his cell number somewhere, if I find it, I'll let you know. That's the best way to get ahold of him. if you contact him for me, I will pay you $5 more for you alt (if I can afford it) Well, I would, but I know about well 1% of what you know about your own vehicle. IF he had a question I could not answer, I'd be of no use.

I'm a huge fan of American muscle, but I'll never buy a new American vehicle. Hell, the imports are more American that the domestics anyways.

WHIP IT GOOD!

GOODNIGHT EVERYONE!

Anyone want to buy a swwet ass box?

Thou shalt not speak of inferior forums here!

Speaker Works Regal.. 10" midbass drivers in the rear side panels.

Kent, you'll be happy to know that the Treos broke a back window!

So, after sitting since July, I decided to change the oil on the Cobra. Put a whole 258 miles on it last year. The oil was nasty! That's okay though cuz Summit shipped me an extra case of RP and two extra filters for free. Think they'll catch their screwup?

Just got off the phone with a guy from Audison-America. Don't like what he told me. Guess the 1.400 is going up for sale. YOu know, to all those thinking about buying exotic components, don't. That is all. Jim, the RCAs are shipping tomorrow. Everyone else, sorry I've been slacking on the Alarm CDs, but I am finally to the point where I have a couple totally free days and they will all be out by Saturday!

F YOU! Round solos ROCK!

Can I catch a ride?

RWD reigns supreme in everything!!! And just so you guys know, I can fry the tires on anything.

WEAK!

That's all I'm going to say. No religious arguments need be here.

The catholic religion as a whole needs a reality check.

Interior: Again, the same principles work here. Start at the top and work down. If you have a used car that may need some restoration of some panels, do that first. If the seats/carpet are very dirty, I recommend having them professionally cleaned. Luckily, I do this for a living at the moment and have access to a mass of great products. If you guys need help, just ask. I can tell you what works, and what doesn't. Do NOT go out and rent one the commercially available cleaning machines. They may look good, but they really don't do the job properly. Get in the phone book and call a local carpet cleaner that has a truck mount unit. They provide the best suction and HEAT which is key to a good clean. Shouldn't run any more than $60. A worthwhile investment IMO. Continuing: Start with the headliner. Do a thorough vacuum in perpendiculr motions. Go front to back, then side to side, or vice versa. Next clean your windows. A good glass cleaner with newspaper as the rag will work best. Some may question this, but I guarantee, once you use the paper, a rag or paper towels will never be used again. I suggest using a cleaner with ammonia. It will strip the glass and leave a smooth finish. After the initial cleaning, I like to take a clean rag and wipe down the windows again dry. Next, get a good cleaner for whatever material your interior panels are. This is key. If you just go over it with some type of protectant, you're doing nothing other than smearing the dirt in. It may not look dirty, but it is. I use Lexol products as I have had excellent results with them and they can be found at any auto parts store. Any good cleaner will work. Follow this with a good water-based protectant. Do not use something oil-based. It will stay suspended on the surface and do nothing but attract dust. Go to a local beauty supply store, don't be scared and buy some makeup brushes to clean in all the cracks, vents, and any other hard to reach areas where the dirt will be trapped. This is especially helpful where two trim pieces meet, or where the switches come through the panel. Get a range of brushes. Toothbrushes also work well, but I find they can not be articulated as well as the makeup brushes. Move on to the seats. Take a soft brush about the size of your hand a lightly brush the seats. This will help to break up any dirt that may be compacted in the material. If you have leather, make sure you get s very fine horsehair brush with LIGHT GENTLE strokes. LEather is something that needs to be cleaned with the proper cleaner followed by a conditioner. This is key. Without the conditioner, the leather will be prone to cracking and will also attrach dirt. Next follow with a through vacuum going in perpendicular motions again like on the headliner. Carpet: Again, use a brush here to loosen up the dirt and debris and reset the nap on the carpet. All carpet will ly a certain way once it begins to break down. Follow with a thorough vacuum in every direction possible. You are never going to get everything out, but it helps to be thorough. After vacuuming, go over the carpet again with the brush. This will act as a dressing to reset the nap yet again. Deodorizers. Deodorizers are NOT air fresheners. An air freshener is simply used to cover up an existing odor. A deodorizer will change the molecular structure of the odor, therefore negating the nose to pick up the scent. That's how we sense odors. Each odor has a certain molecular structure. Once the deodorizer is applied, it modifies the molecular structure effectively removing the odor as your nose can no longer sense it. BE very careful with these products! Most are water-based and will quickly evaporate. Some are oil or solvent based. These can pose problems if they come in contact with some interior pieces. I have seen them melt or disform different types of plastics or leave a film behind, or disolor the plastic or dye. More to come.

Okay, a little more info. I know of a few fanatics that have show vehicles that do not use any type of soap or detergent to clean their vehicles, just water. These people are very ignorant. You want some type of soap or detergent. It's key to removing the dirt and debris. The bubbles or foam trap and encapsulate the contaminants within the bubbles. The final rinse carries them away. Using water is doing essentially nothing other than grinding the dirt into the paint. The dish soap is used as a stripper in my case or similar ones. If you are simply giving the vehicle a bath and have already done the prvious steps, use a car wash. Any one will do. They will NOT strip anything from the vehicle other than the surface dust. This is what you want. You do not want to remove all the polish and wax you previously worked so hard on.

There is no coarse soap soap or detergent unless it is solvent based or has pumice. If they are getting scratches when washing, they have debris on the sponge, mitt, or whatever they are using to clean with. I will add more later tonight.

I like the BOX, BassBox that is.

You don't have to use every detail, but it will help. Yes Kent, you're lovely piece of work will not fit. I totally forgot about my shocks when I measured. I'll find some good use for it though. Now way this is going to waste!

An enclosure built to Vas, tuned to FS, yields an F3 of Fs. Impressive lows there. Don't know how it would be musically though. Would perform excellent with the transfer function of a vehicle or great for HT.

How much space do you have?

ever heard of moving it No movement allowed with this particular enclosure/trunk. Ever seen the trunk of an SN95 Mustang? Not pretty. Guess the back seat is coming back out and making way for an old idea I used on my previous car.