Tirefryr

Paperweight!

Queer Eye for the +1 guy: starring, Clarke as the Queer Eye! Notice the omission of the word HOMO. This is quite an interesting thread, don't you think?

The only way to be IB is to isolate the front and back wave of the driver. If you just mount it there, assuming it is sealed up, essentially you will just have a small sealed enclosure.

Nice article, well written, but you did have some misplaced words. Sorry, I'm a grammar freak! I have to agree with those that called it "hideous." It looks like a Titan with a cap on it that they tried to mold in. Not my cup of tea. I do like the Titans though.

The only way you could get enough space behind the drivers to be considered IB would be to cut a hole leading into the fender. I wouldn't really mess with it, but that's just me. I love seeing new ideas implemented though, so if you go for it, post some pics and let us know how it sounds.

Alright!!! Another Stang freak!!!!

Sweet! All the good news I keep hearing about these is making me rather anxious. My first step into the SI world and it will be with 30" of FURY!

Toyota Tacoma. I found that out in an issue of Motor Trend. I just don't see how that can be though. There has to be at least 1 thing not 100% made in the USA. They didn't name any specifics on how they determined it, but it was quoted in there that the Tacoma is the only truck that is 100% made in the USA. I find it odd how the American manufacturers are moving production to other countries while the Japanese market is bringing the manufacturing to the States.

That wouldin't happen to be the Laser Red one they had with a stroked 4 valve would it? I love the look of that car. I never thought mine would look right without a wing until I removed it one day at the strip. Now I love the look. You worked for Motor Week???!!! I'm jealous!

Mods so far: FRPP stainless ceramic coated shorty headers MAC off road h-pipe Flowmaster American Thunder catback with polished stainless tips K&N FIPK Pro 5.0 shifter '99 Cobra wheels 4:10 rear gears Dallas Mustang Speedcal FRPP aluminum driveshaft Welded upper control arms Cobra R rear springs w/ 1 coil cut Autometer monster tach, air/fuel, oil pressure, water temp guages in guage pod UPR chromoly K-member UPR chromoly Tubular control arms UPR coil-over kit Offset urethane rack bushings Urethane contol arm bushings Front coil-overs Tokico Illumina 5 way adjustable shocks and struts Pro3i 4-bolt caster/camber plates Maximum Motorsports strut tower brace New front rotors EBC Green Stuff pads all around Mobil 1 synthetic oil, and filter every 3,000 miles. Mobil 1 synthetic gear oil GM Synchromesh tranny fluid As you can see, I haven't touched the motor yet. Trying to make the best use of the available power on hand. I the near future, I have plans for a 5L stroker and Twins! I bought some cams for it years ago, but I never installed them due to the crappy lash-caps you have to use for regrinds. Now that they have new grinds out, that will be coming too. I like clean simple lines, so the factory did all the work for me. I'm not into the body kits and all that. No flashy wheels for me. In fact, I'm in the process of getting a new decklid so I can get rid of the rear spoiler.

Re-read that Denim. I asked if anyone knew the only TRUCK produced 100% in the USA. And it's not from the Big 3(GM, Ford, Chrysler).

I don't want to use an iverter for fear of noise. I have no other uses for 120 in the car.

:boxin: My intelligence shines through!

Anyone know how or who to talk to?

:brock: :soap: :whipitgood:

Welcome! I love my new home!

Not to hijack the thread or anything, but Nick, what is the driver displacement of the MAG15? I haven't been able to design my enclosures yet cuz I haven't found it anywhere. Also, when you are using poly and insulation, how much of each are you using is said enclosure and what exact fiberglass (R value) insulation are you using?

Here's a nice quarter shot. Nice interior shot. The money shot!

I'm a huge Mustang freak, but you know, I hate to see the F-body go. Next to the Fox-body Mustang, I think those cars are one of the best bang-for-the-buck speed demons.

Well, everyone's pretty much in the same boat as far as enclosures are concerned. Until we all get our drivers, we really don't know what is going to work "best." Also, everyone's taste is different, so what I like, you may not. I would suggest starting out with the reccommended enclosures and going from there. Also, every install will be different and different designs don't have the same results in every car. Dampening, while not always a necessity is a great idea none-the-less. I highly reccommend it for the simple reason of decreased road noise. As far as the elctrical system is concerned, I am not familiar with the charging system in the Grand Prix, but I would suggest larger primary wires and an extra battery to start out with and go from there. And last but not least, beeing a nooB, be careful who and what you listen to on the net. There are a lot of "experts" on the net and not everyone will lead you in the right direction. Do your homework and research and get your hands on as much as you can. Experience will become your friend. This is a very good forum and I myself hold everyone here in high regards and we have some very knowledgeable people here to help, so if you need it we are here.

I don't have a banner... Boo!

Doesn't Credence build the lower lines of drivers? Do you know the ONLY truck that is 100% made in the USA? It's not from the Big 3.

What I love about today's technology in driver design is that darn near every driver is better than a lot of the higher end drivers of the past. I bought some SS SPL 160s back in the day when they first came out and I loved them! Same with the ORIGINAL Kicker Solobarics. I think I paid about $700 for the SS and around $500 for the Kickers. Back then, that was quite a bit and today's $100-$200 drivers can give you equal or better performance. God bless technology. And thank Heaven for the amplifier revolution! High powered amps from a while ago were not for the budget-minded.

What about the Crossfire VR1000 or MMATTS amps? THe MMATTS are super efficient and I have yet to have a problem with one. They can be pricey, but Ebay shoppers can find a used one for about the same price as any others you've listed.

How about the 302 in the '69 Z? A conservative 390 horse rating out of a little pup!