sundownz

Nope. DJ got it with everything loaded down! In fact... he wants 18" Nightshades to replace the MTs.

Confidential DJ is a Sundown rep, he got a good deal - less than I would have charged someone else.

*laughs* Sure did, I would deny myself warranty in a heartbeat I know how I roll. In the truck the impedance rise averages 200-400% so it's actually a pretty easy load for them - thanks to the insanely small back chamber. But actually... the truck just left here today with DJ so I need to take it out of the sig.

One more used 1500 for sale.

jacob are your 4 amps straped or one for each sub? In the truck ? They are strapped with a Maxx-Link - each pair strapped @ 1 ohm to a pair of subs (1/2 ohm each amp).

Either use Y-Splitters, an RCA distribution block, or the Audiocontrol unit with multiple outputs.

I'll get them shipped tomorrow - I was busy all day w/ DJ getting the truck rolling out of here

18" Nightshade made with the regular black CA glue. These are for Nick Cron - there is another one beside it not pictured. --- Working on yours too Logan Need to get that basket cleaned to be re-built.

Seems to hold really well spider to basket - but I used a different, more flexible, glue for the surround to basket. I'll be doing more testing with it... I have six more tubes to play with. Any chance I could convince you to sell me a tube... or even part of a tube? (enough to recone some 15's?) The flexible glue ? That stuff I feel is very proven... just as an experiment I re-coned a sub, including the spider landing, with the flexible glue... and dB-R uses it to test huge amps of 3kw or more and its holding the spider down too Err... no, sorry... I meant the green stuff. I've got some 15's to build for a SS vehicle that i'm going to throw a ton of power at (I hope) ... you seem to be pretty impressed with how solid it is so I'd like to give it a try It is extremely strong - in fact, a steel substrate will fail before the glue will. The only problem I've found is it doesn't like to soak into porous speaker materials. In the meantime while I continue to search I would suggest a high quality CA glue for your project

That load, 1/2 ohm strapped (0.25 per amp), requires a great deal of caution and rolling the volume - it is also not covered by warranty.

http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=7116

You could talk to them about it - and have them call or e-mail me about it.

8 inches. Small subs, lol. I think the TC sounds OEM's are taller. *hey if you still have yours, i'll take them, lol.* Most of theirs is basket depth I have an SVC 4 ohm here... and a friend of mine has one as well.

8 inches.

Sky, There is 1/8" clearance from the mounting hole to the motor on each side. Simply don't have enough motors to build a bunch of them right now. ---------- I cut the hole larger in the bottom of the 4-spoke for more inner spider clearance. I need to figure out an easier way... tried my dremel and that wasn't working, and then finally got it with my jig-saw after breaking the blade off 5 times.

The 100.4 has it already. The 100.2 will be several months from now.

I guess that would be the easiest way my only concerns are try to set the gains on both amps so they match. I'm still curious about bridging/Strapping the amps just for future reference. (2) 1ohm mono amps strapped would be a 1ohm load or would it change to 2ohms? You want to strap the amps at 2 ohms so each amp sees 1 ohm.

Got it I'll be sure to have an umbrella ready!

I'd love to come to Hawaii some day I'll be sure to let all of my Team Sundown Hawaii guys know whenever I can come down!

No, it won't cause any problems - just no left to right. Both sides will be a mix of L+R.

I have plenty of 12s but not enough motors to build 12 more 10s You could get 12s whenever you want, it is a Nightshade. The "stock" Nightshades that are in stock now are optimized for 1500 watts.

Very deep *laughs* I'll have to measure on Monday --- Logan, Not sure... but I will be getting a bunch of extra motors so I can build more customized drivers as custom re-cones have been a big deal so far.

It looks like you lost stereo operation on the second amp on the right. You have a mid bridged on CH 1+2 and a mid bridged on CH 3+4 ? That means all the left needs to go to CH 1+2 (left mid) and all the right needs to go to CH 3+4 (right mid) so you have left and right stereo operation.

Nice win there guys Congrats!

*laughs* If you are serious I may have to do a production run of them. Other than that... the 10s will likely remain limited special order / if you blow your sub and send your motor back I can build one type thing.