sundownz

I'm going to close this one since it's a bit off topic now Good luck this season!

Two numbers are missing, I removed items that are sold and gone

8) 2x Used SAZ-3000Ds - $800 shipped each / $1500 together * Excellent condition * 1-year warranty I'll get some pictures up later. These are in very good shape.

Nice, glad you are happy!

Nice scores

Yes, someone may be prototyping a pretty solid and shallow midrange driver -- that is possible.

I don't suggest letting it get under 11 volts on a regular basis. If it's dipping that far you are simply straining your electrical setup too much. PS: That Cadence fuse block seems like a really good idea!

Mike, I am actually a believer in lower Qts drivers for a door application -- a door isn't a true IB application and the cabin is really small compared to a home IB setup with a room. The best midbass driver I've heard was the Adire Koda -- low Qts driver I've talked to Dan Wiggins about this on several occasions. I'd rather the Morel over the Dynavox as the Dynavox Qts is a bit higher than what I'm looking for -- I almost won them at a good price on e-bay so I had considered them anyway. I had considered the Dyns as well -- I'm not quite settled on the mid-bass. Also -- the Hybrid Audio 8" is too deep for me anyway. --- todd, You can interface with a PDA or a Laptop.

It's extremely flexible... also offers killer crossovers and time alignment. I use them in my setups even when I have an after market HU!

I am interested in this - will definitely be watching how you work this out! Sounds like a great plan so far. Pending some measurements, of course. It would be really cool if it works out -- but I may be limited to a 6.5" driver in that spot due to diameter constraints. I suppose time will tell when I get it taken apart!

I am actually going all factory locations! The VW has a midbass in the door about half way back on the panel (as I discussed above I'll need a low LP crossover to make it work). It then has a midrange up higher and forward in the door, and then a tweeter in the upper corner of the door by the window. I did kick panels once in a car and I can't stand it as far as driving comfort. Sounds great... but I do drive alot so no go for me. I used a factory position setup in my BMW 325i (had this about 2 years ago) and it sounded fantastic with some help from the 3Sixty.2 -- I used the DLS iridium speakers in that car as well, albeit with a DLS Iridium 6" midbass.

I have a box for them too, I'll be alternating on the subs -- that'll be in flux most of the time due to testing. SD-1 v.2s won't fit up front either

So, I have a 2006 VW GTI that needs a system. Plans, so far, as follows: Dynavox 8" Midbass driver (~60 - ~250 Hz)* DLS Iridium IR3 midrange (~375 - ~3000 hz) DLS Iridium IR1 tweeter (~3000 Hz and up) * I may opt to use Morel HU9.1s or a VIFA 8s -- still brain storming here. Has to be shallow at no more than 3.5" depth so I'm a bit limited. Crossover points subject to adjustment. Slopes will likely be as follows: Dyanvox - 24 dB HP / 12 dB LP DLS IR3 - 36 dB HP / 12 dB LP DLS IR1 - 12 dB HP Subject to tuning. The factory passive in the IR3 set crosses the IR3 in the 300s with a lower slope... I think it'll play at 375 just fine with such a steep slope. I'll further wipe away low-end from it by dropping all the EQ settings in the RF 3sixt.2 to -10 dB under 200 Hz. That should keep it clean on the low end =) The main reason for the low crossover point is that the midbass is by the sides of your body in the GTI. I'll be using time delay but I do want to keep this crossover frequency pretty low so I don't pull the stage too far back. Sub stage is pending... I may be running a prototype 12" woofer for a while. Or several E8s. Read below... it will be swappable, no fixed sub install in the back. Front stage will receive two SAX-100.4s for power -- one bridged on the mid-bass and one in 4-channel mode on the midrange and tweeters. Sub stage will probably use a 3000D so I have the ability to "hot swap" to whatever sub setup I may be testing at the time. I want it to be flexible so I can test prototypes and maybe even drop in an SPL box for a weekend show. One other random thought... I will be investigating running subs in the rear panels so I can have some form of bass ready to go at all times in case I remove the sub setup in the back for some reason. I think I could glass in a ported box for 8s behind the factory panels -- or maybe just IB. As for the source unit I'll be using the factory 6-disc changer that plays MP3s as well -- I have a 3sixty.2 that I'll be using to convert the signal. Most of the wiring is from KnuKonceptz!

My Dad is excited, I have a vented box for the pair for his Chevy 1500 -- behind the seats.

Good idea -- done and done.

1) The parameters are different. I didn't make any changes to the motor or coil since then but I gave it a stiffer surround as the original surround was just mushy and I hated it... that raised the Qts to the mid 0.4s and the Fs to the 30s. The VAS also decreased so the enclosure requirements and response are actually pretty similar. Since the only one I have "final" was assembled by me and I am not as accurate with glue (extra mass) my measurements won't be dead on. I'll get exact, broken in, specs when the drivers come in. 2) I'd say it would compare well to the Tang-Band 8" but with more low-end output, especially sealed. It also has better thermal power handling due to having basket windows and a directly vented gap. With Sean's help we did burps on it with 800 watts and he still runs the proto daily with around 400-watts in a tiny bandpass box. 3) They are not similar to the SD-1 by design. I did spend alot of time in FEA with this motor, I'm very pleased with it. 4) They will pretty easily reach 100 - 200 Hz, perhaps as high as 500 Hz inductance-wise but there are probably dust-cap breakups around that area.

My Dad will be using two

Okay, production started! I'll post up when I decide to start a pre-order. I'm thinking around $65 shipped in the 48 states for a pre-order. How does that sound to everyone?

Indeed... my thoughts exactly. I'd say less than 2% of car audio enthusiasts have the electrical support for even one SAZ-3000D. The forums are really only a tiny fraction of people out there -- some of the local installs I've worked on guys had a couple of RF 2kw amps on bone stock electrical with 4 awg wire, wondering why they aren't that loud.

Hey, now that's interesting to know. Now the main Q now is, what happens when this module acts up or fails? What kind of safety features do they have? U know this runs the whole car so, u know, is their risks? About all it can do is quit powering the rest of your car I believe it's just some diodes, either work or not. Not any more risk than the alt simply failing on you.

Ok then how much and how old how beat on? http://www.db-r.com/sell/store/index.php?productID=143 dB-r Electronics has refurbished 1500Ds for sale at a very good price -- he offers a 1-year warranty as well. He is my authorized refurb dealer.

Lots of stuff still for sale!

Eventually I will do a larger than 3k amp -- but it's a very low priority. You'll be seeing more SAE line amps well before that happens

As stated above -- there will be no problems using them together. The changes are for thermal performance and cosmetics, I did not make any new changes to the 1500s internally.

in reply to yer signature, dear lord, that is seriously yer car's audio setup? damn... i am jealous of you rich people and your money filled richness...^.^ Yep, that is the setup in the truck I wouldn't say I'm rich, but being in the audio business does make it a bit easier to build a big system.