sundownz

Do you have a load connected or not? Setting by voltage alone really isn't extremely accurate either due to the actual impedance varying quite a bit from the nominal. I generally set them by ear and back it off a hair once I hit audible distortion.

Like I said, that fuse was probably loose -- if not, perhaps it was a bad fuse. Replace the fuse and make sure everything works okay, if it does, you are good to go.

I have no way of telling what happened for certain -- but my guess is that fuse was loose. The fuses are in parallel, the amp will power on with only one fuse.

If the remote voltage went below the level to turn the amp on this could occur, or if supply voltage went below ~9 volts or so.

RemixPinoY, If you need any more help e-mail me at [email protected] -- you got it from Mark, if something is actually wrong with it you will have warranty. I'm going to close this thread.

Maybe, maybe not. It is mainly just the fancy high-end RCA cables.

People have 3000s in installs doing 150s and I've never had complaints about rattles, did you see if the bottom screws are tight? Is the amp bottom actually pressed against a surface, or no? Some RCA cables do not play well with the amps -- namely some nicer Stinger and Memphis cables, perhaps a few others, but those are the ones I know of. This can cause the amp to go into protection -- try a cheap RCA cable, like the red and white end ones from Radio Shack -- those always work. As for the electrical... yes, that is not ideal for the 3000D at all. I'd imagine that since your vehicle is a Toyota the alternator is pretty small as well as the battery. That could stand some upgrading... but I doubt that is why it is entering protection at 2 ohms unless the gain and/or bass boost are maxed out. The amps are absolutely stable at 1 ohm when setup and working properly. I run them in my SPL truck at 1/2 ohm and play it for extended periods of time -- but I do have two alternators and nine batteries in there. Takes power to make power

Wow, Nick is now old enough to be my grandfather!

1) Your installer is wrong. It sounds like he may not know what he is talking about. 2) The amp is rattling? How do you have it mounted? Sounds like it is loosely mounted as the bottom covers don't rattle easily by any means. Post some pics of your install if you can.

What RCA cables are you using? And yes, your electrical system is inadequate for any 3000 watt amplifier. It is not "power hungry" but it is a real 3000+ watt amplifier and requires substantially more current than a stock charging system can supply. Also, where did you get it? If you really do have a problem we should find out if you do have a warranty on it.

The X12 or the TC-9 or the Konaki hybrid? The TC-9 hybrid is mostly setup for SPL, it would be difficult to make very musical but won't quite sound like total junk. The X12 proto will sound pretty darn good in a moderate sealed box or large-ish low-tuned ported box. Probably the best sub for sale here for an SQ application. The Konaki hybrids have a great set of parameters to sound good in a smaller sealed or moderate ported box.

Looks like it should be pretty loud!

I'm guessing with the choice of sub it's more of an SQ setup, a smaller port actually has wider bandwidth (less peaky) than a large port as long as it's not TOO small

Looks like a great start! That thing will kill the mic with the 3000Ds

Probably because of the very low QTS on the 12" model. I would suggest using an EBS alignment for the RL-P ported... if it was me that what I'd do with a ~0.2 range Qts driver. I have done so with other Low Qts drivers and it sounded great.

I would bet that the new Mag may even be useful as a large format mid-bass / sub-bass driver for home setups with it's incredibly low inductance

Tested em. Big, loud, very low quality build. The lower spider landing will pop off first, you should epoxy that. Once you epoxy that the top spider will pop off, so I suggest adding epoxy there too. If the customer applies too much power it will then break the triple joint as the spider allows less travel then the motor is capable of and the glue joint can't take the stress of the suspension locking up.

Likely you won't be able to find anything even if you opened it. If you think it's an amp issue send it in to me per the instructions in the manual.

I'm excited

Okay. Replace the RCA cable completely and try it direct from the HU. Let me know how that works out. If that does not work out I am going for HU problem.

What RCA voltage are you putting into the amp? Try it again without the pre-amp driver.

Cool... so at least everyone that tried to send me something will know to re-send Thanks for the help guys!

Could be any of those things. The 1500D will protect from issues on the RCA input as well as many other things to prevent itself from being damaged.

Any E-Mails from 5:30 PM - 11:30 PM EST last night were NOT received at my Sundown Audio account due to a domain down-time. If anyone e-mailed me during those times and has not received a response please re-send your e-mail.

It's not working for me