sundownz

I have no idea how many dBs That is totally install dependent. For 30 seconds at a time you should be fine.

For burps? Yes. How many amps is the factory alternator? Not sure about daily.

You have some time. The prototype isn't in my hands yet

Built myself a new computer finally... had my old one since 2002 and it was overdue to be replaced. The old one is still stable as can be but is showing it's age speed-wise on newer programs. Anyhow... on to the specifics: Intel e4300 1.8 Ghz Dual-Core over-clocked to 3 Ghz (1.325 volts, stock voltage) Massive Heat-Pipe based heat-sink with 120mm fan (forgot brand... copper base and aluminum fins) ABIT AW9D-MAX Motherboard 2048 MB OCZ Reaper 1066 DDR-II RAM (2.1 volts) 2x Seagate Barracuda Perpendicular technology 250 GB SATA Drives 2x Sony DVD-RAM Drives (SATA interfaces) EVGA Geforce 7800GT Video Card (all stock speeds, I don't really play games) Viewsonic 19" LCD Screen OCZ Gamestream 600-watt power supply Coolermaster Mid-Tower Case Very happy with it... I stress tested the over-clock running both Folding@Home and Prime95 with 1024 MB of RAM utilization for 24 hours. CPU sat around 57 degrees under the 100% load, it sits 42 - 45 degrees running only Folding@Home as I normally do (50% load 24/7). The system runs VERY quiet as well... my old one had 6x 80mm fans in it and was loud by my standards. I forgot about the joys of over-clocking as a nerd My previous system was an Athlon XP 2100+ on the original core that made it to that speed. It was completely non-over-clockable and required an after-market Alpha heat-sink to maintain stability 24/7 at 100% CPU load at stock speeds. I was unable to tweak my computer for 6 years and I'm having fun doing it again! PS: I should win some kind of nerd award for modding my APC UPS backup device with a fan. The previous set of batteries got hot enough to bulge out drastically on all sides -- never seen anything like it. Added a fan and it runs MUCH cooler now (I have it in a bad spot for cooling by passive means alone).

Indeed, I'm pretty excited about them. This basket was chosen for the spider plateua venting. I also integrated gap vents in the back plate. These two features will dramatically increase long term thermal power handling vs. other lower cost 8" subs out there. Xmax is very healthy for the price / depth at 12.2 mm by the 70% BL method and with a full 22 mm of x-mech before coil hits back plate (I typed incorrectly when I said 18mm in the original post). Pricing is TBA, but a pre-order will be offered to get some of these out there to the public right away for reviews and feedback. More information about that is coming soon.

If they do as well in real life as they do on paper for the dollar... then they will be a go. They model out quite well in theory, testing will be coming soon

PS: It will also receive a rubber gasket, and not the "front" gasket that is shown. Anyone want to help me design the cosmetic packaging?

Photo of the prototype... coming in soon for testing. It was a scanned photo, so my apology for the quality. Chrome is for the prototype only, it will get a black basket and steel parts for production. Preliminary T/S are pretty close to my goals... actual measured T/S will be posted once it arrives and is broken in.

If you want to know 100% about battery stuff... get on Termpro in their battery section and ask Scottie J

Very small difference in efficiency. Not really worth considering for anyone but dedicated SPL competitors fighting for each 0.1 dB.

Slight measurable power difference... not audible. Strap them for simplicity

Sounds like fun stuff Cliff, let me know how it goes!

Starting a new thread for this. Closed.

Some things have been sold, list updated.

Excellent

No difference other than the logo on the face.

Indeed... the manual does have that "Tested at 14.4v" notation in it... I overlooked it several times and keep forgetting to have it changed! But yes, the SAZ and SAX lines are rated at 12.8 volts and the SAE line is rated at 13.8 volts, officially. Glad that you are pleased with the line I work hard every day to make sure customers are happy!

Steve, From the sticky power test: "I clamped the SAE-1000D on my bench setup: Pyramid 50 Amp Power Supply Kinetik 2400 Battery Duralast 1000 CA Battery Fluke AC current / voltage meter Sears DMM Test load used was 2x SI Mag D2 12" all coils in parallel for 0.6 DCR with a rise to 1.08 ohms. Voltage = 32.19 Volts Current = 34.6 Amps Supply = 14.4v rest dropping to 12.5 volts Power = 1113 Watts I know I had alot of people asking about this, so there it is!" Notice the voltage drops to 12.5 volts... this simulates a vehicle with a small alternator (50 amps) dropping to battery voltage. The amplifier still produces over 1100 watts. Officially the SAE line is rated at 13.8 volts as well, but they do exceed their rating anyway. The strapped rating is lower as the amps lose some efficiency when strapped. Also, as always, this is a very conservative rating -- it assumes that when running two strapped the end-user will be seeing more voltage drop in their actual vehicle.

Not any mono amp can be strapped without additional equipment. The SAZ and SAE mono amps have built in strapping ability. Some amplifiers will require an external module like a MaxxSonics Maxx-Link to be strapped. On most amps that are 1 ohm stable alone they will be 2 ohms stable strapped (each amp sees 1 ohm).

It's on my to-do list Will send you a photo as soon as I can, perhaps tonight or tomorrow afternoon.

*laughs* Nah, good idea though J/K

Nice score there!

Very exciting!

Indeed, trying to stick w/ those for production. The re-cones are RE parts and they don't use that style cone.

Trucks and/or limited depth SQ applications are the #1 target market for these guys. I'll retire my old pair of SD-1s and run two of these in my car when they are ready