sundownz

You IA guys are mean spirited picture withholders *laughs* I had a dream that I saw death penalty pics, thats how bad it is. *edit* Ohhhh, edited back!

My uncle works at a fiberglass manufacturing company... I guess I should ask him if he can get resin for me sometime, huh?

Your install is easily the best looking 150+ dB install I've ever seen... much less @ 33 hz! My truck can almost do 160 @ 48 Hz (with the seat out) -- 158.8 with the seat in -- but does about the same as your car @ 33 Hz. And it certainly doesn't look pretty *laughs* And wow... 149 @ 20 Hz... I don't think mine will even get close. I bet the car goes crazy playing that. Very impressive! If I ever make it over to the UK I've got to sit in it As for bassrace, you may have to get an Epicenter and "add" bass to do bassrace... or you can try some "Young Jeezy" -- it hits in the 30s quite a bit.

that's pretty amazing that you have over 1k posts then! lol I know, right? I really haven't even looked @ this thread much before. Guess I'm out of the SSA off-topic loop!

I don't think I've ever posted in here before *laughs*

I glued a piece of cut-out sweat pants to the spider on my Brahma 15 years ago... played the sub for a year and it stayed on there, FYI. This quietened down the spider lead slap of that sub, could also help prevent wearing holes in your spider. I'm sure that technically it's not "good" for linearity, but I never heard any difference except no slapping sound

If I can make it to the meet, sure.

It looks like an SD-1 V.2 -- literally the ONLY thing in common with any Treo sub ever made is the basket. Same basket used by hundreds of other subs. Works great since it's one of the shallowest cast baskets out there. --- X-max is 12mm.

Jim Don't worry man, I'll take care of you later. This one is made to be a SUB, just happens to do okay on lower midbass too. I have a midbass / midrange in the works... trying to get protos. You'll have to listen to them. Unfortunately production won't be incredibly soon, but I should have prototypes before the end of the year!

Gotta pick two LFE, small box, and high efficiency -- can't have em all.. I picked more LFE and small box, so they aren't incredibly efficient. Of course, on subs, efficiency is kind of a misnomer... as a sub with a lower "sensitivity" will usually have more output down low. For instance, I modeled two sets of parameters -- one set lost 3 dB of sensitivity but had more output under 50 Hz at even one watt levels. That is the one I went with as most people consider "sub" output to be pretty low. They are IB compatible in-car. IB requirements are a bit different in-vehicle, notice how low the Qts is on the Adire Koda 6 midbass? Ever heard one? I talked to Dan about this and IB is totally different in-car than in-home due to the small cabin and how the doors actually behave as enclosures. Extension will likely be limited by cone resonance around ~200 Hz on the top end as it's not a cone made for anything more than low-end work.

Probably stamped, the proto will be stamped. A nice one, though

He can get 300 - 325 for it as long as it is in excellent condition. That seems to be the going rate.

Hmmm... didn't think about that! I'll have to ask James about it.

It's alot... ~33-36 mm or so. It can move more than the 12-spoke basket can handle.

Sure does look alot like the TB T/S specs, huh? Didn't notice that before. I know mine will look nicer *laughs* Shooting for better motor cooling as well. We'll see how the proto pans out. I might have to work on it some more but I'm thinking I like the idea.

*ponders* I may be able to match that price... this woofer is pretty well comparable to the RE-8, although, it has WAY less moving mass than the RE-8 does.

What was the RE8 going for ?

I usually worry about stage second in my cars. I don't compete in SQ so it's okay I prefer mild or no T/A even if stage is off a bit. You are right, it does sound funny with too much processing and T/A going on! As long as I get a good sounding response and a reasonable stage I'm good to go.

I had to tame the LPGs to get them just right, but with a few hours of EQ work... I didn't experience any ear fatigue to speak of at incredibly loud volumes in his car! Very impressive for me as my ears are pretty sensitive to harsh and fatiguing tweeters. Even used the aluminum dome LPGs in there... relatively off-axis in the A-Pillars and I did EQ separate left to right (right is more on axis with the driver). It's phenomenal, really I simply can't get the SS drivers right... fatiguing no matter what I do and I have a 3Sixty.2 for processing and active crossover ability to boot. They sound quite good @ low volumes but just wear on my ears rapidly when turned up. If I can figure out how to get an 8" driver in my door and still get the panel back on, I'll do it! I already have my window blocked up so that is no problem -- my concern is the metal bar behind the speaker hole and getting the panel back on. Not trying to hack up my car too much at this time... the other item in the works should do very well for midbass without resorting to an 8" driver.

Sounds like under-voltage protection if adding electrical upgrades made it better. What size alternator do you have? Power wire size? Upgraded big-three wires under the hood?

Don't worry, I've got something in the works to get rid of those... oops... did I say that out loud? I can't take em' much longer... they sound pretty good but are fatiguing as can be. I can't listen to them loud at all... after installing some Seas midbass / midrange and an LPG tweeter in a friends car (awesome, by the way) these defiantly have to go!

I've got a proto coming in just to see it I'll see how it does. Best part is I would be able to offer it at a really great price... I considered building them and selling them direct as a "specialty" item as I'm sure that 99% of my dealers will never sell an 8" woofer.

How many people like 8" woofers? I have drawn up a design for an 8" subwoofer as a fun side-project but I find myself liking the design more and more as I look it over! This is what I came up with, wondering who would be interested: FS = 23.6 Hz Qms = 2.55 Qes = 0.350 Qts = 0.308 VAS = 21.2 L RE = 3.32 Ohms Z = 4 ohms Le = 1.668 mH BL = 12.73 N/A Mms = 113.46 g XMAX = 12.2 mm one-way by 70% BL method Xmech = 18 mm (the coil will hit the back plate at 18mm) Power Handling = 200 watts RMS Sealed Box Specs: 0.185 ft^3 0.707 Qts Alignment F3 = 55 Hz Ported Box Specs: 0.50 ft^3 Tuning = 30 Hz F3 = 28 Hz ----- This driver would also make a pretty solid midbass driver up to 100 - 200 Hz or so It would be fairly shallow... I don't have an exact figure as I'm not 100% sure the total depth on the basket. The motor is only 45mm tall (right about 1.75"). ----- UPDATE 3-6-08: Little bit of FAQ of sorts: 1) Will the parameters be the same for the production mode? The parameters are different. I didn't make any changes to the motor or coil since then but I gave it a stiffer surround as the original surround was just mushy and I hated it... that raised the Qts to the mid 0.4s and the Fs to the 30s. The VAS also decreased so the enclosure requirements and response are actually pretty similar. Since the only one I have "final" was assembled by me and I am not as accurate with glue (extra mass) my measurements won't be dead on. I'll get exact, broken in, specs when the drivers come in. 2) What does this compare to? I'd say it would compare well to the Tang-Band 8" but with more low-end output, especially sealed. It also has better thermal power handling due to having basket windows and a directly vented gap. With Sean's help we did burps on it with 800 watts and he still runs the proto daily with around 400-watts in a tiny bandpass box. 3) How high do they extend? They will pretty easily reach 100 - 200 Hz, perhaps as high as 500 Hz inductance-wise but there are probably dust-cap breakups around that area. 4) So what is the final depth? 4.25" 5) How much power do they REALLY handle? 200-watts is very conservative. This is a 4-layer copper winding coil with an aluminum former -- the motor has a pole vent and direct gap vents, combined with spider plateau vents on the basket. Needless to say it has some real thermal potential. In all but the smallest box requirements 200-watts will suffice to sound good, but I would suggest having a 300-400 watt amp "on tap" for the smallest recommended sizes.

I believe it was a 7KD Stetsom, which is rated 5000 @ 12v and 7000 @ 14.4 volts. It is their big boy.

The XXX coil has to stay the same length to effectively utilize the XBL^2 motor. The BL curve will get all wacked out if you make the coil longer.