sundownz

Don't worry, other drivers that I will do later will be more SQ oriented. But 90% of the market wants a speaker that sounds "good enough" and gets loud. I would say these sound better than most "regular" woofers out there, but they won't hold up to the SQ offerings from Stereo Integrity and the likes I'll leak a bit more info for you Jim... it will use a bit of aluminum in the motor, if that makes you feel better

It is taking a while to get the updated coil. I'm looking at that one sometime next year due to the difficulty in nailing down a coil and the expense of making such a large driver.

It's not the size of your amp, it's how you use it. You going to put logos on the cones Jacob? I think a nice silver Sundown logo would look awesome with that cone. They look great. Yessir, logos will be on the cone for production. These are protos so they don't get logos yet

Dealers want a sub in this power range MUCH more than a 5-channel, so these are first Other amps are still in the works, but a 5-channel is not on top of the list. The SAE-50.4, SAE-75.2, SAX-250.2, and an SAE-1500D will come first.

Indeed, it is likely that company gets parts from the same supplier. Of course, as you know, the internal geometry can vary greatly I've changed the internals of the motor dramatically for the next revision without changing the external appearance whatsoever.

At this time these are just known as the "X10 and X12" speakers. The photos are of the first prototypes. I am already working on revising the prototypes with several important improvements. These are geared towards "daily beating" and are made to be used as a pair with either an SAE-1000D or SAZ-1500D. Sound quality is good, but output at moderate power levels is the number one goal. * Basket with extremely long clearances. The motor also has enough clearance to travel over 33mm rearward before bottoming out, this is well beyond linear coil travel limits. * Vented pole and vented gap for increased power handling. * The cone is a fiberglass weave with paper composite backing. It's quite light and has the stiffness I am looking for. The surround is a rigid "high profile" foam surround to increase cone area while maintaining the necessary travel. These speakers are Dual 4-ohm 3" voice coils, designed with small box requirements in mind. 10" Sealed = 0.4 - 0.75 ft^3 12" Sealed = 1.0 - 1.25 ft^3 10" Vented = 0.75 - 1.25 ft^3 @ 30 - 35 Hz 12" Vented = 2.00 - 2.50 ft^3 @ 30 - 35 Hz T/S parameters are TBA as the final production units will have slightly varied parameters from these prototypes as I am increasing the voice coil length by 10mm. This will change a few things around, but will not substantially alter the box requirements. I tested the prototypes with 600 RMS on sine waves for 1 full hour, they passed the thermal test no problem. The final product will be tested with 750 RMS for two hours as the target power rating is 750 RMS. With the changes I have made to the motor and coil, 750 watts RMS should present no problem whatsoever to these speakers. I am not going to reveal all of my changes to the motor, I want to keep some things as a surprise for release. MSRP pricing is TBA but should be somewhere between 200 and 250 dollars for the 10" and 12" models. If anything, it could be lower than those projections. A 15" model is planned for later release but no details are available at this time. --------- UPDATE 9-5-2007: For those new to the thread the X series design has been totally re-vamped from it's introduction in this thread. The new design is to be rated for 1000 watts RMS, has much more excursion, and will take far more abuse. All of these changes were expensive but very much worthwhile. The pricing for the X12, which will be the first size to debut, will be $399 -- make no mistake, it will be worth every penny, the revised design will be very impressive to say the least! Higher power handling, lower distortion, superior cooling for long term reliability, more linear excursion, twice as many spiders to keep everything centered under the highest loads, and the list goes on. A new prototype is under construction and has been fully computer optimized for the best performance possible. Small enclosure size has been retained as well The revised prototype should be ready in 4 weeks or so.

Under your hood replace the critical electrical system wires with 1/0 cables: 1) Alternator to battery cable 2) Engine Block to Battery 3) Car Chassis to Battery I always throw in a fourth... engine block to chassis. In order to power a pair of 3000Ds to their utmost potential, "audio-neon" is correct. You can run the amps with less but you will not get the most out of them, remember -- these amps WILL produce well over 3,000 watts with solid electrical system backing: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/i...?showtopic=9952 I measured 3200 watts on my bench dropping to 10.75 volts (not something you want to do on a regular basis). If you can maintain around 13 volts you could see around 4,000 watts from each amp =)

One 3000D will draw slightly less current as it will do slightly less power. For all practical purposes it would be almost the same Of course, one 3000D is smaller and simpler as has been mentioned.

It takes a long time for parasitic draw to have an effect on the batteries. I have a Kinetik 2400 and a large lead-acid battery connected together on my test bench... left for a week it has no noticeable effect on the batteries. It would probably take a month to really hurt the batteries. Short answer... no, you don't need an isolator if you drive the car at least once a week

If you want to run 2000-watts on your subwoofer then you will need an HO alternator and, I suggest, a brand new starter battery and a large deep-cycle secondary battery like a Kinetik 2400 or Deka Intimidator 9A31. This is assuming you will be listening to it at high levels most of the time... if you rarely utilize the full capacity of the amp you *may* be able to get away with less upgrades, but I know most people that buy 2000+ watt amps and 18" subs don't intend to baby the volume! You cannot bridge the head-unit onto the front stage as you suggest. Even if you could I would not suggest doing so, you will be MUCH better served running even a small amplifier to the front speakers, especially with 2000-watts on the sub! I'm sure that you want to be able to hear mids and highs with all that bass, correct? Is your sub a BTL or a BL? Your post isn't quite clear as it states "BT"

It is for a customer of his, not installed yet I'm sure the general idea is to somehow be able to hear a bit of mids and highs with the bass going full blast @ 12kw on 3x 18" woofers *laughs*

That is going to be ridiculous

Fitting the battery was no problem. I just had to remove the end plastic piece on the air intake and then notch the battery hold-down plate as this battery is wider. Very simple "mod" for a much larger battery. More car pics: I like the tweeters up high the in A-pillar, I've done it in several installs. Your suggested position works pretty good as well, I've done it before. I prefer the A-pillar personally since it does seem to raise the soundstage a bit.

Which fuses exactly? And what size are they?

Indeed, if you start getting under 11.5 then you have a problem. I would say try to keep it around 12 to play it safe since you know you are upgrading the electrical in a few weeks anyhow.

I wouldn't say "good" as each amp is capable of over 400 amps of current draw depending on how they are wired and how high you have the volume knob set. You can certainly listen to music daily on two yellow tops and a 300 amp alternator, no problem, but don't expect full output from them for more than burps Just keep an eye on your voltage and you'll be okay.

Keep the volume low and you will be fine until you get the electrical system going again.

Yes and no, The SAZ-3000D is strappable to another one for a underrated 6000watts and No it's not 2 amps in one chassis\heatsink. Correct, it is no two amps in one chassis. And also correct, it is strappable

I had a similar experience to yours, about the same.

So... stuff was piling up again. I found more b-stocks, more used 1500Ds are coming back from Team members, and some refurbished amps are popping up here and there as well: http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZsundownzQQhtZ-1 B-Stock, Used, and Refurbished amps do come with a warranty but it is reduced compared to a brand new unit from a dealer: Used / B-Stock = 1-year warranty Refurbished = 90-day warranty All amps listed for sale on e-bay are tested thoroughly on my bench here before leaving.

Excellent

I don't have anything planned at this moment, but it is possible... price would be determined at that time.

As of now they are active with 24dB slopes crossed at 3,000 Hz... the midbass has a 24dB high pass at 65 Hz on the 3Sixty.2 unit, a 50 Hz high pass on the amp at 12dB per octave, and the subsonic around ~30 Hz again at 24 dB per octave on the amp. So... I really killed the low frequencies hard, thus allowing me to use a lower than normal crossover frequency.

Indeed... I gave up the idea of using deep 6x9" speakers in the back rather than subs due to those bars. I just ripped out the rears completely to allow more bass into the cabin.

*laughs* I will probably end up with some refurbished amps by the end of the season thanks to my competition guys They can always find a way to blow stuff up. No b-stock yet... but I'll probably have at least one by the time I go through them all. I tested six yesterday on my "lab Mags" (the pair of Mags I test everything with)... after six 3000Ds in a row the Mags were a bit smelly *laughs*