sundownz

I have not yet measured efficiency as my Fluke clamp does not do DC current... once I get a few more important things taken care of at Sundown a more advanced clamp is on my list. Efficiency is quite good... but 2,000 watts on stock electrical is asking a bit much, don't you think?

No, that is the output current to the speaker load.

Voltage drop will make them very hot, very fast. What have you changed since before that now you have a problem? Is a ground wire loose? How about the set screws on the d-block? Try to tighten them all. A loose connection will drop voltage. Also... try a larger battery, preferably an AGM type like Kinetik with a large capacity. A single red top isn't very robust, IMHO. This keeps you over the 12.8 mark for longer once you have exceeded the capacity of your alternator. Looked at an HO alternator? You can get some decent ones that aren't insanely powerful from Alterstart on e-bay with a warranty without spending a fortune.

I have plenty of brand new 3000Ds, just not b-stocks as he asked about.

I do not have any, sorry!

A few updates... I added a seperate relay to turn the 3Sixty.2 on -- this seems to quiet down the turn-off pop. It was loud enough to make my ears ring before, seriously. I also totally revamped my gain structure by resetting the 3Sixty.2 through a new setup and lowering my gains. This eliminated 90% of my system hiss. I could probably get rid of the rest with a superior head unit or a line driver. But it is almost totally inaudible now. Need to install the second midbass still... motivation is damped due to my deadener not being here.

The only spare I have is a 100.2 heatsink -- this one had the board cracked in three places in shipping due to the power terminals being jammed into the amp so hard they broke off the board. But... I will probably be making a custom SAE-1000D with that heatsink for one of my dealers that wants to match his 1000D to his 100.4 since I don't have the SAE 4 channel ready yet

I've always got stuff laying around and new stuff moving in and out, you should ask me before buying anything

Be sure to e-mail SSA for the best price, by the way

I would go with a dual acoustic suspension bandpass... Seriously, though... try some PA speakers that still have healthy x-max figures like the B&C 18TBX100. Has a very flat response ported... it's over 2% efficient (many car subs are 0.2% efficient) and has a 4" VC and extensive motor venting so it'll keep being efficient under high power. If space was no consideration, as Jim said, you could build a horn setup with such a driver and achieve ridiculous SPL with a few hundred watts.

That is what my testing showed, yes. I should probably do it again and take a little video

I add them to the box as an "extra" type deal, I sometimes forget when packing things up.

You can get a new sticker for 5 bucks to cover postage. Paypal is the same as the auction, [email protected]

Ron, I don't have anything like this in the works. Sorry.

The Vulcans are killer power amps for SPL, I've seen it first hand. They put out lots of power very efficiently. I don't know anything about them as daily amps, I can only assume they do fine. I wouldn't doubt those for a moment, the main concern I have is that the company is in Brazil and support may be hard to get if you do break one. The second concern is that the other amps, besides the Vulcan, aren't nearly as good. Their price, appearance, look, and feel makes me think that they are not up to the standards of the Vulcan.

*laughs* Excellent to hear I have two of the 10" SD-1 subs in my 02' Civic now, finally have some tunes!

Sell the 3515s?

They are only covered by warranty at 2 ohms strapped, which is equal to 1 ohm per amplifier. Many people do run them at 1 ohm strapped but you are not covered by warranty.

Looks like the cost will be as follows for shipping to you: DD 9512 @ $75.00 each via Priority Mail (insured) TC-3000 @ $80.00 via Priority Mail (insured) I do have other parties interested in these subs so let me know ASAP.

SSA has a store, you can buy the SAZ-3000D from them: http://www.sundownaudio.com/pp3000d.html http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/shop/in...p;productId=152

There is no switch, the subsonic is always active. It is variable down to 10 Hz so it is essentially "off" at that point.

I think what he means is that support is at least in the USA for those companies.

Either set will work as both also have an LPF, but channels 3 + 4 have the best low-pass filter so it's best to bandpass the midrange with them. Channels 1 + 2 only have an LPF from 30 - 250 Hz while 3 + 4 offer 50 - 5000 Hz variability.

Sure, no problem. Can you give me a specific zip code?

Nice setup!