sundownz

That all depends... the 140 amp alt will charge the batteries, but not if you are constantly calling on the full 350+ amps of draw. Playing a sine wave or rap music at FULL output will give your alternator a problem... regular music and daily listening levels won't be an issue as actual current draw in normal situations is way less than maximum.

You can PM him on this forum at stratusrt01 or on Realm of Excursion.

I'll probably use a ported box so I think i'll go with two 10"'s. Thanks for the help. Can't wait to hear them. Any recommendations on a good ported box? Yessir, just like the one Rich (stratusrt01) made for me: 2 ft^3 tuned to 30 - 35 Hz in a 2002 Civic LX trunk. He can make one just like it for you for around $150 or so I believe.

What box do you want to use? Ported or Small Sealed, use the 10" model hands down -- two of them for a 4 ohm load. Larger Sealed or Transmission Line, use the 12" model -- again, two for a 4 ohm load. Either option will come out under your budget, contact a dealer for pricing (like the SSA store) and you will get a price quote that is less than MSRP.

It'll charge them, yes. I have a 50-amp bench supply charging a Kinetik 2400 and a 1000 CA starting battery

Up for grabs is a pair of 10" Sundown SD-1 subwoofers. I used these briefly for testing purposes, they will come with full warranty as they are very close to new. They do have speaker wire soldered to the terminals, though, pretend it's "direct connect" like DD Price is $125 shipped for the pair in the continental USA. These are GREAT with an SAX-100.2 to power them. I am running a pair of 10" SD-1s in my 2002 Civic if that tells you what I think about them

Either way will work. For you, since you actually do want the same output front and rear the 100.2 will work fine and be less expensive. The 100.4 running 4 ohms stereo will output a lower distortion signal compared to the 100.2 @ 2 ohms, though.

If fader control is important to you, as well as independent crossover flexibility front to rear then yes the 100.4 is the better choice.

Wow, I've never seen a surround tear on a Mag. I've seen some used and abused Mags too Did you ever get it fixed?

You sir are a sick man... and we love it

Someone else got that exact one... but yours was tested the same way. All of the used, refurbs, and b-stocks are fully tested in the same manner on that pair of Mags. I sold two used Mag 12s recently, they sold too fast to make it to e-bay, though.

There were photos of a prototype that Nick was evaluating. He did not deem it to be worthy of being called a Mag, so it was not released and was promptly incinerated at the SI "rejected product" furnace. The driver currently in question is entirely different from the other proto. It is made in a different factory to different specifications.

If it was my kid... or even just a kid that I knew, such as a friend's kid... I'd still kill or seriously injure those idiots. I have no idea what is wrong with people, and no sympathy for people stupid enough to give a kid ex.

Rockford 3Sixty.2 for the win, that is all I had a world class sounding system in my BMW (when I had it) with the factory head unit. Nick at Stereo Integrity couldn't believe how great is sounded with factory HU and factory speaker placement, thanks to the 3Sixty.2 unit. A 5-channel will NOT be out be years end, I will tell you that up front. The SAE-50.4 may be out by then, though. I am working on giving it as much crossover flexibility as possible, but we'll have to see how much I can get in it at it's price point. Since the 50.4 is an SAE amp you may want to consider the SAE-1000D to match heatsink wise if that is important to you.

Oops... typo! I meant to write SAX-250.2 prototype. Rated is 1000 watts @ 4 ohms. So, it did exceed that number. I am revising the existing 250.2 board stronger power supply FETs, higher voltage caps, and a much better crossover. Of course, the existing proto ran on a 1.9 ohm DCR for well over an hour when I was testing it so it's durable as it is. Still looking at next year for it, though You know I test everything extensively. With the revisions it should do everything I want it to without resorting to an incredibly large chassis. So far I don't have anything planned for a 5-channel, but perhaps a 6-channel where you could bridge channels 5+6 for 600 watts @ 4 ohms. This would be useful, also, for 3-way active setups and whatnot. I'll put it on my "to-do" list to see if I can possible get something like the SAE-1000D and SAX-100.4 in one chassis... unfortunatly I am fairly certain I would have to lose several of the crossovers features to fit in any controls for the D-Class channel. If you have seen the 100.4 you know it's end-panel is already stuffed full.

It is likely that you could hurt them depending on frequency and box tuning. Just start out slow and learn the limits of the sub. Rob is a great guy and I hated to see him have to sell off his gear, but "real life" is always more important than hobbies

Yah, my other Civic is like that too... it's a bummer. I took it out completely and will have 2x HC2400 Kinetiks inside the car behind the front seats daily. I'll drop in a few more for comps I think you can still get a slightly larger battery if you modify the bracket... not 100% on that one, though. I do know that some SPL guys remove the stock airbox completely and stick a battery where that is located.

WinISD shows the 10" SD-1 woofer to be flattest tuned to 25 Hz. Increase the box to 1.5 ft^3 and drop tuning to 22 Hz and you get an F6 of 25 Hz with the 10" SD-1. The 12" SD-1 has an F3 of 38Hz in a large sealed box (3 cubes). It would actually do really well IB in a ceiling install for a home setup. It would also lend itself to isobaric sealed installs in the car, and for those who like more upper-end "boom" a smaller sealed box works fine as well. Qts is a tad high for porting IMHO, but people port woofers with much higher Q all the time these days. It would be incredibly loud ported as it tends to peak hard in moderate sized enclosures. LoL, yes yes... my mistake

Below is the box Rich built for the Civic: * Talk about prevision fit, the trunk arms actually contact the carpet But not enough to hurt anything, it closes smoothly. * Wider shot. ---- This way I can still utilize the whole trunk and not worry about smacking my woofers with boxes. I can even stack a think package on top of the box!

If your under-hood setup looks at all like mine you can fit a pretty big battery in there. I had to slot the mounting bracket so I could position the bolts a bit wider. I also had to remove the very tip end of the "cold air induction" hose that is on there from the factory. I haven't notice any decrease in gas mileage or performance, and I track every tank of gas If you look closely you will note that I soldered every ring terminal on there. I learned a hard lesson in my brothers truck after yanking the wire out of several ring terminals... solder them always!

They love low tuning, and with isobaric mounting the box requirement would be extremely small. I'd say 25 Hz tuning is as low as you really need to go for any car application, though

Hint... they throw down hard ported, tuned low Rich was kind enough to build a box to my specs for the SD-1s tuned in the 30s. I also tested them in a double flared box my brother built tuned dead on at 30 Hz and a bit larger than the one Rich made for me and the extension was even lower. That box was a bit large for my application, though, as I stuff my trunk full of amps every day The SD-1 is a keeper. I will be running two of the 10" SD-1s on a daily basis in my primary car if that tells you anything.

Thanks for the review Rich I am looking forward to hearing more about your 12s when you make the box for them.

Indeed, much larger than the 100.4 and cost gets out of line with what people really want to spend. I might consider a 150.4 or something along those lines, though. Much more reasonable to build. A 250.4 would be a 2000-watt RMS A/B amp when bridged at 4 ohms... that would be *expensive* I'm guessing around $1200 or so MSRP if I built it. --- Oh yah... I tested the 250.5 proto a bit yesterday. I got 1092 watts @ 4.85 ohms actual load with 13.8 volts dropping to 12.45 volts. The DCR of the load was 1.9 ohms (DD 9512 Dual 4 in parallel) -- it was the only way I could get anywhere near 4 ohms actual in my single sub test box. Using a nominal 4 ohm load (TC9 based D2 sub in series) I got as high as 618 watts @ 12.34 ohms actual load.

Honda batteries are TINY too... I crammed a large battery under the hood of my 02' Civic and I only had to modify the top bracket, nothing else I'll have to get some pics up later, might work in your car too.