sundownz

Put the two SA-8 box in the CRX modified with an 8" aero-port... finally got tuning settled in to 57 Hz as the loudest. Powered by two SAZ-1500Ds... with one Stinger SPP1500D and one Stinger SPV-70. On Powermaster charger for testing. Interior of car is currently gutted to prepare for sound dampening. Here are the results : Score is dB Drag style on the dash legal and sealed up. Little FYI... bought the ports here : 8x20" Flared Ports NEW big raduis

The first generation Z v.2 use a 4-layer aluminum coil -- specs listed below. Newer Z v.2 use copper coils -- specs posted here : http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50823 D1 specs will be very similar -- D2 specs can be used to design the enclosures no problem. ---------- 10" D2: RE: 3.88 ohms Fs: 51.69 Hz Qes: 0.474 Qms: 7.04 Qts: 0.444 Le: 2.53 mH Vas: 7.31 L BL: 24.01 NA Cms: 43.77 um/N Mms: 216.53 g Sens: 85.12 dB 1w/1m ---------- 12" D2: RE: 3.72 ohms Fs: 37.54 Hz Qes: 0.409 Qms: 6.82 Qts: 0.386 Le: 2.8 mH Vas: 23.95 L BL: 24.07 NA Cms: 66.43 uM/N Mms: 270.43 g Sens: 86.74 dB 1w/1m ---------- 15" D2: RE: 3.8 ohms Fs: 36.83 Hz Qes: 0.376 Qms: 3.8558 Qts: 0.342 Le: 2.956 mH Vas: 60.77 L BL: 25.28 NA Cms: 67.02 uM/N Mms: 270 grams Sens: 90.91 dB 1w/1m ---------- 18" D2: RE: 3.69 ohms Fs: 30.21 Hz Qes: 0.477 Qms: 7.65 Qts: 0.44 Le: 2.62 mH Vas: 126.61 L BL: 24.21 NA Cms: 69.35 uM/N Mms: 400 grams Sens: 90.47 dB 1w/1m

The subsonic is used as an HPF if you are going active and have that set of channels set to LPF -- therefore resulting in a bandpass crossover.

Awesome

only the protection light turns on and then immediately off. The power light never turns on. Okay, check the items I listed.

It climbed to 152.4 with two 1500s on an NS v.1 1500s @ 0.25 each

Nice work

Does the power light come on after protect goes off ? Or do all lights turn off ? If all lights you may also have a bad ground or weak turn-on signal or a messed up inline fuse.

Pre-ordering NOW OPEN... pre-order runs until July 4th or while supplies last. ETA is the end of July -- as always this is subject to delays and is not set in stone! Before opening ordering 20% of this run is already accounted for in large Team builds... so get them early if you want them from the first run. COST : $525 shipped in the continental USA - Regular MAP Pricing is $775 * Contact me for AK and HI orders * USA ONLY SALE TO ORDER PAYPAL ME AT [email protected] with Subject "SAZ-2500D Pre-Order" or talk to your favorite online or local Sundown Audio dealer. ---------- This amp is a beast... it has the output section of the SAZ-3000D and a strong power supply to back it up using new, more powerful, power supply MOSFET parts. All of this in a package only 1" longer than the SAZ-2000D. ---------- Ratings : 2500 @ 1 ohm 1200 @ 2 ohms 600 @ 4 ohms ---------- Testing : Wired @ 1 ohm in Derrick's Explorer : 1690 Watts 21.4 Amps 78.97 Volts 3.69 ohms Actual Wired @ 0.25 in Derrick's Explorer: 3360 Watts 63 Amps 53 Volts 0.85 ohm actual Around 14v actual voltage 16v testing not done yet... will have that when I get new batteries for my Jeep. ---------- * Sitting Next to SAZ-2000D Model (2500D to the right) * Another angle - you can see the 2500D is only about 1" bigger (2500D on top)

Re-cones are $30 + SH

As for the reason... I am only shipping a few to the foreign markets so I can easily keep track of them for future re-cones to make sure they match. I don't want to ship a bunch of drivers around the USA without having the spiders I plan to use for full production.

I am not selling them in the US yet.

I am building some for a foreign market and they turned out pretty well. Before I start offering them in mass I am making a different spider but these worked out very well. The new spider will sit down on the 7" landing to give more cone to spider clearance. I'll put up some specs before I ship them off.

Both. I drive it every day as it gets awesome gas mileage.

Yep - it is the flat stuff. It was nice to run under the carpet... but the main reason I used it is that I got a great deal on it

It is roughly 3 cubes after port and sub.

0.5 nominal... likely around 2 after impedance rise.

More power later... really need to do some dampening before I get too much farther with it.

Oh yah... stock alternator too... need to get a big one on here as I cannot get that many batteries to fit.

Interior in the back is stripped to prepare for dampening... so hopefully I can get results of dampening addition soon! Second Skin Damplifier Pro of course!

So... I got tired of not going to any shows so I've thrown something in the CRX. Took my "magic box" from the Jeep and threw my prototype Monster 15" in there as it was the only D1 sub I found laying around and powered it with the prototype 2500D. * Stinger SPP1500 under the hood with oval 1/0 Stinger flex wire -- one run power and one run ground to the back. * Upgraded factory ground wire here too. * Got it in behind the b-pillar. SAX-100.4 under the box. * Wire mess with distribution blocks. * Magic box in all of it's glory. * SAZ-2500D is under these boards. Just threw this in quickly with scraps to test. ... drum roll ... * Also did 150.1 but didn't take photo... clamped ~1300 watts of power. Big rise + lacking electrical = not alot of power. Peaking at 52 Hz... not right for the CRX at all -- but interestingly this is MORE efficient than the same box in my Jeep. So I may just keep adding power to it

Yep... any of them shipped any time recently brand new is a v.2 model. Externally they look identical to the v.1 models.

It will still generate heat regardless of the load - so that is fine.

Just the LED burnt out -- no worries.

Hey guys, Found out that at least some of the latest run of 1500s have the BR IN and BR OUT reversed. If you got one recently and plan to strap it I would check it out to see if you are affected. This has no effect on the regular inputs and is only important for strapping. This can be easily fixed DIY or you can actually just flip the cables to the opposite BR plug and just use it that way. If you want to fix them so that the labels on the side panel are correct this is what you do : * This one is correct - the cables go blue, black, black, green * This one is not correct - notice it goes green, black, black, blue * The plastic plug around the pins is backwards and the connector only plugs in one way so this piece needs to be flipped around. You can pull it off carefully with needle nose pliers and put it back on just as carefully as not to bend the pins. * This is how it should be I wasn't notified by anyone until this weekend so it may only be a few amps -- but just in case take a look at yours if you plan to strap it to make sure. You can also simply use the BR IN as the BR OUT and vice versa if you don't want to mess with the plug. We can also fix it if you are not comfortable doing it. This is ONLY the newest run of amps -- all amps shipped after today will be checked over so if you are planning to get one after now it will have been fixed if necessary.