RAM_Designs

I agree with 6-6.5ft^3 with a low 30's tuning...great subs.

What exactly are you gaining by doubling up on a little 8"er? You might as well just brace a single layer to get the box resonance out of the sub's passband.

"Saying "clipping doesn't kill speakers" is a half-truth at best. Technically no, clipping itself does not hurt the speaker. But in clipping your amp, you can easily create a situation that WILL kill the speaker. Was the squared waveform the DIRECT cause of the failure? No. In the end, the answer is, always has been, and can only be... heat kills speakers. BUT, clipping increases heat generation, sometimes by a drastic amount."

You should bust out some violence every once in a while, it'll relieve a lot of your stress.

Specifics are still needed to make the most of what you have, otherwise we're just guessing at what you've actually got to work with. I came up with 48" wide x 15" tall x 14.5" deep...think something that size would work for you?

All I hear are excuses.

I take it you've done this, have any pics? Also, how are you getting a big flare with wood(I'm assuming MDF)? Just curious...

Aeroports are a good option if you're looking to save space. It just comes down to if you're willing to spend $100 on a trio of 6" ports, in this case.

You must have missed the first sentence of my post. Air being displaced is what matters most. How much power or how big of a box it takes to get that displacement is irrelevant. Tuning frequency is the next important factor as a lower tuning means a lower port velocity, which means you can get away with less port area. Maybe you thought I meant the physical sub displacement inside the box, not the air the cone will be displacing?

Same here. I think I've underpowered(hate that word too) nearly every setup I've had...granted I don't look to push my stuff to the max like some people do. Hell, I had a pair of 1st gen IXL's running on a bridged Cadence DCA4100, 250watts per sub, and I could bring them past xmax in a larger than recommended box. Same with my TC2+ Assassins, I could make their surrounds start to fold.

Did you ever get a answer to this? I'm curious as well since I too drive a explorer As long as you have enough room for the port to fire into you should be fine. If you get to the point where the rear gate is closer to the box than the smaller dimension of your port(ie: 4" from the gate with a 34"x6" port), then you'd be better off building the box all the way to the gate and fire the sub and port up.

Thanks guys, but you're a little late...I still cried last night.

Nice job on that bracing...dowels make it really easy because they don't take up hardly any space and don't restrict air flow very much at all.

What kind of space can you fit in that GTi?

Sub up/port back and sub&port back both work well in most SUV's.

Lol, everyone wants something for nothing.

If so, these should be the bee's knees. I love B&C stuff, and more midbass is always a plus.

Which results in extra heat build-up, same sort of thing. Only too things can kill a sub: heat and over-excursion(mechanical failure).

I try to have 1/2 the sd of the woofer(s) as my minimum. Without tuning unreasonably low it shouldn't have to be too long.

Looks good. Is there a particular speaker these are based off of?

I think so too. I've been meaning to make it over here for a while, just never really got away from other forums enough to make time for this one.

Do sub and port back. Mount the sub so it's as far away from the interior port opening as possible.

We need to know what kind of dimensions you have to play with.

Cool beans, good luck with the install.

13 other views and no one else welcomed me. Don't make me cry myself to sleep tonight.