dbsupra

I understand what you are talking about with coil resistance but you aren't driving anything. You are just using the remote turn on as a trigger to energize a relay. We are talking mA here. But I agree unless you are trying to turn on so much equipment it wont operate you may consider using a relay. Most of the head units I repaired back in the day had a 500 mA rating for the remote turn on. Things may have changed since then.

Right, but for the requirements it is on the large side. You could always add blocks on the inside to consume airspace. Just a thought, I know you don't have the space for a port, but what about a passive radiator? Not sure what your enclosure looks like and don't know if it would be easy to modify. Often on tight space areas people have ran a PR in place of a port. I know Jacob had good success running a 10" PR with an SA8. You are right tho, there are a lot more people running ported instead of sealed. But there are people out there doing it, just don't see it as much. Lastly, there is a difference between running a sub designed for ported and running it sealed vs a sub designed to run in both sealed and ported. Sure it may have more output ported, but still sounds really good sealed if that makes sense.

Lol that isn't what I meant. I meant let us hang with a number and no details. So maybe I missed it, but how do you like ported vs sealed?

You can't let it just hang like that! Was that tone, music, sealed, in the kick, etc. Details! And congrats

It is another one of those try and try some more. That being said, are you talking about running it horizontally across the length of the enclosure? If so you have to be careful to not make the port too narrow. I would say being that big of an enclosure that would be a long width to run. Ideally you would like to keep within a 9:1 length to height. I know people have run. 1" wide port or been outside 9:1 and say its fine. I just prefer to build within those parameters.

I would turn the low pass all the way up then listen. Then turn it all the way down and listen again. You should be able to tell a difference. Does your head unit have a low pass as well?

As a side note. I do some contract work at a company that supplies 85% of the mat for battery construction. The thicker the mat the better. They made some prototypes and the batteries last too long due to mat thickness and had to make them thinner. The thickest mat that is used is exclusive to diehard brand platinum. I don't know if it improves performance but for sure increases life.

Look at AutoZone, Advanced, etc. I did it for you since I'm feeling generous. Looks like a 34 or 78 fits. Id recommend a diehard platinum or for a little cheaper a Deka intimidator/rebadge.

Assuming you plan on running 1 ohm you really need to do atleast the big 3 and probably upgrade your front battery. What about the sound you dont like? Loud is subjective.

You could go with the SD but again not the best for sealed either. Not saying it would sound terrible but it is more suited for ported as well in my opinion. It may fit your physical size limitations better no doubt.

Full port size all the way through. Not sure where you got the idea of doing half. When you do the split you measure the physical length and split in half but not the width. I didn't check your calculations but be sure you are measuring down the middle of the port and not making the port length and physical length. Also not sure if you took end correction into consideration. Lastly if you go into options in sketch up you can change the measurements to decimal so it won't display in foot inch. Makes it easier for me anyway when I'm designing.

For the same price basically you could go with a pair of SSA gcons. They are more suited to sealed than the SA and require .85 cube per which would work for you. Not sure if money is a concern but the FI Q 10 will work in as small as a .2 cube box with .5 being optimal with the high qts option.

SA 10 sounds worlds better ported. If you are set on sealed you might look at different subs.

Very nice! I noticed the huge stack of wood pellets. Must have a pellet stove eh? I remember when I was 13 we got one and having to haul all the bags in the garage. Back on track, I notice the round over on the port. What size is that, 1/2" ? I just picked up a new 3/4 for my router and going to try it on my next enclosure. Also if you coat the edges you don't have to use so much db paint

Sorry to hear. Heat is usually what kills the trans. What do you have for a trans cooler? That would be my next upgrade, especially with the new power and badass trans going in.

Just catching up on your thread. Saw you said 8 10" fans and I thought holy hell thats a lot lol. I see what you meant tho. Either way, don't know if you picked up any or not yet. If not, I'd go for bearing vs bushing fan and not a China fan. Have not had very much luck out of them and the CFM rated is very exaggerated. Congrats on the new amp!

1 guy really? I knew one guy was recovering from surgery but I thought there were more there than that. Crap it might be another month for me then. Regardless it's obvious the new subs are reading different than the old ones. I'd like to know what you find out.

You might look into the SSA Icon, Sundown Z and Fi Q. All get loud and I've been impressed with the sound quality of them. The Z you wouldn't want in a sealed enclosure though. Other 2 subs work in sealed.

I have no idea what size enclosure you have them in. That being said, you are expecting them to play 200hz? I doubt it. Maybe a woofer but not a subwoofer. I wouldn't expect much more than twice Fs. I'd imagine rolloff much sooner than that.

There is a lot more to it than just tuning frequency. You haven't put much effort in this. I don't even know if this is music or burp box.

OK I cleaned it up a bit. This is the new revision. Thoughts?

I considered that, but that endend up being almost 5 cubes ports displacement lol. Check this. The farthest line is the most reasonable I could go, and even then it would place the back plate even closer height wise. The closest line is actually looking good. It tunes it about 2hz higher, but only 1hz higher f3 than the original plan plus about a 1db gain from 30hz-40hz. I know, it is just modeling and not 100% real world due to cabin gain. Just looking at the differences. Maybe I can use slight offset to the left from center position with the shortest port and be far enough from port entry? Or would I still be better off with the original plan of far right placement with original port?

Designing a new enclosure for a Fi Q18. I want to be sure that sub placement would not cause any issues with unloading thru the port or odd loading issues off the port wall. It is only a single sub, so I dont believe the loading off the port wall would be an issue. Here is a quick sketch up of the enclosure. The guide mark is the mounting depth, and is approx 4" from the back plate to the port wall. I would prefer center placement just for aesthetics but functionally I believe the position closest to the exterior port vent and above the port wall may be the best bet. Thanks for any insight

If the box is 23" deep you can't go 16" deep and maintain 7" off the back wall. You would have to subtract .75 or 1.5 depending on how thick your wall is. You only have to subtract one wall thickness since the port uses one wall. From there you can calculate the legs on either side. Take the physical port length calculation and subtract from the straight section. This doesn't allow for end correction I don't believe. I'm out in the shop working on mine now. Maybe this will give you what you need or someone else can chime in. I don't really build t ports.

Download WinIsd free program. The beta version does less but is easier to use than the alpha version. You can model different size enclosures and it will show you the response difference between them. It won't be perfect due to cabin gain but will give you a good idea. Typically a larger box will be more efficient and have a little more gain on low end extension. Don't forget the port area of 12-16 sq in per cu ft. Having too small of a port will seriously effect output.