dbsupra

The aluminum will polish up real nice and you can seal it off with zoop seal. It will stay shiny for a long time. That is if you want the bling.

That's cool. I have that song. The low note drops to 27hz and peaks just above 30hz. Your version is slowed, what is it's range?

The PSP flared port is a little more efficient than a standard port. That being said, you can get away with using a little smaller but the SA12 has more xmax than a standard 12" sub, i.e. needs more port area. The port calculator says 66 sqin of port area for 2 SA 12s at 32hz tune. Sure you can try 1 and see how you like it, but I mention it only because if you don't and turn around and add 3 4" ports that will drastically change your net volume and most likely require a rebuild.

What about a slot or square port? I had a single 1 6" aero on my single 12. I'd think that would be too small for 2 of them.

I was trying to make a point. I know it isn't the same. I'm a tech by trade and do system wiring all the time. It just amazes me when people totally discount speaker wiring is all. Ok, you have 3 feet of wire and using a smaller gauge wire you may lose wattage to the subs. Ohm's law still applies. Will it be noticeable? Probably not. But why undersize it? I'm not trying to start an argument, just stating my opinion. And saying that's like using 1/0 wire on tweeters is asinine.

Your point? The filament inside a light bulb is tiny but you don't see me wiring a light socket with telephone wire.

Besides the obvious, what difference does it make? Like advantage of one over another. I'm not up on my walls.

Starting a new box build this weekend. I'm doing a slot port for this one. The box is 23" long with a 2.25" wide port. Need a 27" long port to tune. According to my math, the L section of the port needs to be 4" long. This assumes 2.25" from end of box to edge of long port length which I come up with 20.75. Taking center of port at 21.875 that leaves me with an L of 5.125 center. Subtracting back in 1.125 of center leaves me with 4". For end correction, I need to add back in 1.125 which brings me back to 5.125" L I've had a long week. Is my math correct? I don't design a lot of slot ports. Thanks! Dave

Looking good steve! Maybe I missed it but are those binding posts the ones from parts express?

Happy to see you are nearly there! What material are the bolts? I would recommend aluminum because standard steel does not conduct all that well.

I have those clamps! Much better than the squeeze type. The pads are a little small and they seem to want to dig into the wood so I cut a bunch of little squares out of scrap to help displace the direct pressure. Altho I do like to clamp the hell out of things too which doesn't help lol.

Where do you buy your birch?

My son and I will be there.

TG's are nice tires! One of my top 3. I think you will be happy with them. Looks nice!

You usually give good advice but I have to chime in on this one. I drag race and all rules require that batteries mounted inside the car have to be in a sealed box and non sealed have to be externally vented. Buddy had one in his supra and the battery vent dumped above a run of fuel lines. When we upgraded the fuel system we found the stainless braid was corroded and eaten thru in one small spot where the vent tube was. They don't make this stuff up for no reason and not the type of thing I want vented into the car. Maybe it was a freak event, bad batt, etc but is rather not risk it. JMHO

I used PVC heavy duty cement and primer to put the pieces together. Then wrapped it with HVAC tape. Made a double baffle plate behind the port and used heavy duty 2 part epoxy. It wouldn't come out if I wanted it to.

Edit: 78.5 inches Some calculators use metric so may need to input in cm or m

Sd = radius x radius x pi For the sa 10 that would be 78.5 Not always 100% accurate because different mfg don't always measure the sub the same way. But it is pretty dang close

I just looked up the amp and saw the SSF is fixed at 15hz. That's kinda dumb imo. Be sure you have the bass eq at 0. Don't forget to also check your wiring. As long as I've been at this I've screwed it up and wired it out of phase before.

Nice! I would still have a few more grounds like I mentioned in the original thread. May help out as well. Also, don't forget Ah is an important number, not just CA

How about 25w x 14d x 7h? Port is 5.5 x 2 tuned around 36hz. Is just a bit smaller port area than a 4" aeroport. My first sa-8 box was very similar to this and ran off a 1200 at 2 ohm. Not huge output but it also was in a land cruiser. It did sound really good tho. The port area could stand to be a little larger but working with that small of a box that's about the best I could come up with. Maybe someone a little more crafty can come up with something else.

I have a bit of experience with single sa-8 boxes. Let me see if I can dig up something that will fit. But yes a single 8 tuned decent and small is not easy.

Jacob had good results with the v2 using a 10" psi passive radiator. Small footprint and could tune at different freq changing the mass

Another alternative to an XS, Kinetik, etc is a Diehard Platinum. I've been real happy with mine and has a 4yr replacement. Also might consider the Deka Intimidator/Super Start Extreme. I would also add some more grounds. From the battery to the frame and engine block to the frame. Are you using AGU fuses? I've seen some that have poor quality soldering and causing a voltage drop across them.

A little on the vague side. I don't know what subs you are using, how many, or how much power. No idea what goals you have or what kind of music you listen to or what it is even going in. Please provide more info if you want any kind of real help here.