UNIT 6639

Mark , is there anything you wont consider doing subwoofer wise

The amp never turns off, I was just a little concerned that it was getting hot, its working 100% fine though! I wont worry about it, I am not pushing it hard yet anyway, still need to get a second sub before I can take it to 2 ohms.

I play music on it, thats what I did to my BL, I dont know if its fully broken in yet though, its been in and out of my car, but I like to take it easy on my subs at first then after a week or so, WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOT! I tore a few surrounds back in the day with my old Soundstream SPL 15's , the shop guy told me I needed to break the sub in, thats why I was tearing the surround???

Yea, I have had quite a few different brands of subs, not as many as some of us here, but quite a few, from complete junk to high quality stuff. Ascendant and Fi happen to be my 2 fave sub brands. Yea, give your BTL another look before you dump on it

Ok, I just got this amp from a friend, I was unaware I needed a 300 amp fuse for it, but I hooked it up anyway without one. It works fine without the fuse, but Kicker plainly states it needs the 300 amp fuse. So, I go to a local shop and buy the Kicker fuse holder and a 250 amp anl fuse, they did not have 300 amp fuses so I figured 250 was better than nothing. Also, Kicker recommends 1 gauge minimum, I have 2 gauge power and ground in the car now, I plan to upgrade ALL wire to 1 gauge, but my question is, will the 2 guage hurt the amp while I am scrounging money for wire? I noticed that the right side of the amp gets hot, the Kx lines are supposed to have fans in them so I assumed it wouldnt get hot so quickly and at the low volumes I am running the amp. Right now, I am running it at 4 ohms , I did not plan to run it at all at 2 ohms until I get the 1 guage wire in there, but why the warmness?

I would look at the amps efficiency and you may be able to tell from there, like for instance, my eD 9.1 was like 64% and I was getting major dimming. I switched to a Kicker Kx 2500.1 and my dimming has gone..... DOWN! , this tells me that the Kicker must be more efficient than the eD is, I didnt change anything at all except the amp, all wiring remaind the same! But if you have your big 3 upgrade to 1/0 , you should be fine with either!

Off topic question Scott, I will start my own thread, but, I have a Kicker Kx 2500.1 , i noticed when installing it that you could only turn the filter on, not adjust it. I am wondering if my BL will be fine tuned at 35 with the Kicker filter at 28? Sorry OP for the thread jack, I am off to start my own thread

Well, I dont have a 15" but my BL sounds great, I am not really an SQ guy but its nice to have good sound quality, the BL does not sound bad at all to me, I have and have had plenty of SQ subs, even ones with the legendary XBL tech. I am very please with my BL to say the least! What options are on your BTL? I would really love to try a BTL, ecspecially now that I have the power requirements for one!

I know a guy that has a pair for sale, thats why I was asking, so basicly, the BM's are not underrated at all? Thanks for your quick response.

Looks great, now put it in a box, send it some power, and then tell us how it sounds

I am wondering if I could power a pair at 4 ohms 1500 watts rms, I know the BM's rms is only 400 watts rms, but I am just wondering if this is at all possible if I am carefull with the gain and volume?

I asked a similar question about my BL, got the same answer, if your not smelling coil, your good! I got my dustcap heated up playing test tones, I never smelled even a hint of coil cookage, and trust me, I have blown a couple of subs in my teenage years so I know what coil smells like

I really wanted to say that , I was looking at it and salivating!

Almost similar to my install plan, I had a 2 cuft dual 10" tuned to 35 built for 2 10" BL's, I am planning on ordering my second BL 10" sometime soon hopefully. I just got a Kicker Kx 2500.1 to power the 2 10's, I am going to wire them to get a 2 ohm final load for 2500 watts rms . I can't wait to get my second BL. I have been working on this install for months, took me awhile to find the amp and now I need to save up for the second sub!

I doubt you will be unhappy with either!

My uneducated opinion is, with that power, get the Q !

Scott, could you pm me a quote for the kit pleeeeeeas

None of this applies to my BL 10" right?

I am running 1200 watts to my completly stock BL 10" , its tuned to 35hz 1.25 cuft, let me tell you, IT MOVES! I asked a similar question just before I ordered my BL , I was told NOT to get the SPL option if I planned on playing ANY music. I actually ordered my BL with the SPL option, and had to ask Nick to change the order for me. I am glad I did, it sounds great!

Blowing my 2 Soundstream Refrence 500's , giving away my Refrence 200 , selling my Art series A600 , giving away my Soundstream SPL 15 , buying 2 12" Kicker solobaric L5's from Crutchfield , buying an MTX 801D from a local shop for $450 "On Sale" , Trading away my AA Avalanche , this one hurts the most

I think the OP was only kidding about hating FI.

Its like new, when you blow a sub its usually is the coils or other soft parts that go, so you can reuse the motor with the new recone. This is an uneducated response.

Shipping quote to 26851? with shipping the sub goes up to almost $300??

My BL has no options, my amp does 1200 rms at 1 ohm 12.5 volts, so I figure its at least getting 1400 watts with the car running, I have got the dust cap warm once, but that was with tones. With music, it takes everything my amp can dish!

Welcome and "WE COME FROM FRAAAANCE" , I just had to say the . Yea, go with that Q !