sandt38

The ZR1 is a monster, I really like the Z06 too!! While not the SLP variant you have on your desktop... It's my Rally Yellow 1LT/RS. It has been massaged a bit, with an Injen CAI, ARH long tube headers and hiflow cats, Flowmaster Super 44 mufflers and Trifecta tuned ECM and TCM. It has run 9.1 @ 82mph in the 1/8th and has seen it's limited top speed of 155mph. Currently sitting with ~280rwhp and ~250lb-ft of torque. Not bad for a 3700pd automatic 3.6ltr v6, lol! wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee I had saved up enough cash to get one of those. Unfortunately I got cancer and was out of work for almost a year, and my wife was going back to school. So i used almost all that money to survive for that year. So now we are going to Rome in April with what is left over... so no Camaro for sandt.

Thanks Broseph! My wife found a nice 120GB porn collection and was a tad unhappy about my intrawebz browsing, but I am back from time to time.

Well, you are crazy , but yes, I did post pics. yes, that is an 8" mid in the center channel (rear ported 5.25 surrounds) Ooops, that RPTV is now a plasma

So as some of you know, i was diagnosed with "terminal" colon cancer in July of 09. I was told i would not see Christmas of 09, but here I am cancer free. I have always been a lifter, of the old school caliber. Eat a ton of peanut butter after a workout, ingest carbs for quick recovery and energy, lift heavy to failure after 3-6 reps 3-4 sets., 3-4 day break. But when I got sick i dropped from 6'1" 230 to 168#. They had me gain to 200#s with a very high protein diet. But I was flabby, and unhappy. I was finally released to work out, with limited core work because of all my surgeries and fears of tearing my abdominal wall and causing a hernia. I had 24 staples from my dick to my sternum, and about 50 internal stitches. I also had 6 staples and about 20 internal stitches where they removed part of my descending colon and lymph nodes. Finally, I had 15 staples and 70 internal stitches where they removed part of my liver and lymph nodes. The surgeries were done November 9th of 09. So blowing out my abdomen and creating hernias is a major concern. I have always had a bit of a belly, no matter what I tried, and I had unimpressive (re soft) chest... old man tits if you will. So I started on a cut routine. 3 lifting sessions a week, full body, high reps, light weight to failure, short breaks, low calories with high protein (whey) right after my lifts. I led into my lifts with BSN's NO Xplode, and lots of water for the creatine. I dropped to 185 and climbed back to 193 with more muscle, but no real definition. So, realizing my lack of definition was a lack of bulk under the flab I went back to my bulking routine and added a few more supps. My caloric intake was low (1500-1750 daily) with 80 grams of whey on workout days and 56 on off days. I tried cardio, long heavy walks or jogging on my 3 off days with trail hiking and running on Sundays. But I plateaued fast. So I went on a bulk routine, since I know them best, but I added supps to help build. My supps include 1 whey at 28 grams in the AM, 3 NO-Xplode scoops and 1/2 NO Xplode Igniter shot before lifting, 3 scoops of BSN Total Mass and 1 scoop of whey post workout, and 1 scoop of whay before bed, and changed up my routine. I elected to go with the whey for quick absorption and better recovery. Mondays I do chest (1 warm up at 50% and 20 reps, 1 minute break, 3 sets of mid level lifts, 10-15 until failure 2 minute breaks, and 2 heavy sets with 3-6 reps before failure with 3 minute breaks and calf raises, 50 per set at 3 sets) and biceps ( 2 exercises (standing BB curls and cable concentration curls), 4 sets of decent weight and 1 until failure), and abs (50 situps) Wednesday I do legs (squats, 1 warm up at 50% and 20 reps, 1 minute break, 3 sets of mid level lifts, 10-15 until failure 2 minute breaks, and 2 heavy sets with 3-6 reps before failure with 3 minute breaks), Shoulders (2 exercises (standing lateral raises and military press), 4 sets of decent weight until failure), and forearms (2 exercises (seated forearm curls and seater inverted forearm curls), 4 sets of decent weight and 1 until failure). Friday I do back (seated rows and laying DB lifts 4 sets of decent weight and 1 until failure). Triceps (skull crushers and pulldowns 4 sets of decent weight and 1 until failure). Traps ((1 warm up at 50% and 20 reps, 1 minute break, 3 sets of mid level lifts, 10-15 until failure 2 minute breaks, and 2 heavy sets with 3-6 reps before failure with 3 minute breaks), and Abs, leg lifts, 3 sets of 20. My curls have almost doubled and my benches have doubled. Currently benching 360 (incline and declines are up, and curling 180. My military press have boosted 60 percent, up to 160. Other significant increases include forearm curls from 90 to 200, inverse forearm curls from 60 to 140. My weight has grown to 211 pounds, and I have gained some fat, but my muscle mass is greatly increased, and a safe guesstimate is my muscle strength has boosted almost 80% overall. The wife says that even though there is more fat, the muscle mass is greatly increased and it looks leaner due to my muscle mass being so large compared to the fat gains. My chest and shoulders are significantly larger. My forearms are almost show off worthy, and my shoulder and back gains are significant. I figure i want to reach about 220-225"s before beginning a cut routine. I am hoping to get back down to 200-205 pounds and retain the muscle. My belly is shrinking a bit, but not as much as i would like. Plus the extra size in my upper body offsets the belly. Same with the tits. The upper pecs are developing, but the bottom of my chest is still softer than I would like. Does anyone have any suggestions for cutting fat and maintaining muscle? I know I need to watch what I eat, and maybe drop my caloric intake by about 300-500 calories. I am assuming I want to go with more cardio, but I know cardio eats at muscle. Do I go with light lifts, multiple sets, less breaks, and fewer sets to offset it? Do I go with all body workouts 2-3 times a week instead of 1 workout per week per muscle group? Am I right in assuming that I want to cut back to 1/2 or 1/3 of my True Mass? I think I will drop the NO Explode as it increases my intensity and focus so much that I can't seem to stop lifting heavier. Perhaps something like Jacked, for energy and possible hunger control?

No. DVD Audio and SACD are both audio formats in 5.1. FWIW Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon is fucking bliss on SACD. I love to get a couple valium, several beers, sit in my listening room and hammer it. The effect is unreal. I need to come to your house, I will bring the beer. Any time. My home set-up is pretty killer. All Pioneer Elite with DVD-A and SACD fed through 5.1 analog passthrough and alll custom speaker builds by myself (huge ported mains stay flat to 32Hz in room), with a Brahma rounding out the bottom end. I'll supply the valium

Yes, and yes. A passive crossover will reduce the load across the crossover point. So even though you have 2 4 ohm speakers, the 4 ohm load will remain constant at the handoff/crossover point.

This is an SQ thread, amirite?

Any DVD player will play DVD-A. But it is best with a 5.1 analog out.

No. DVD Audio and SACD are both audio formats in 5.1. FWIW Pink Floyd Dark Side of the Moon is fucking bliss on SACD. I love to get a couple valium, several beers, sit in my listening room and hammer it. The effect is unreal.

So I gather you are interested in big box/ big name woofers. In that case I might suggest looking into Alpine TypeRs (not a bad budget ported woofer) or a JLW3, again not a bad budget big name woofer. But you can really do a lot better by looking into some smaller name internet based companies. The prices are great and the quality is also very good. In fact, dollar for dollar, you can really get a better product for a smaller dent in the wallet.

It will be much better for the proposed enclosure. It will have the motor strength required to deliver more output in the ported box, where the Pioneers will struggle.

They are decent subs. However, for what the list price is on them, I think you could do better. What enclosure are you planning on using them in? These units lean heavily towards a sealed cabinet. They just don't have the motor strength for a ported cabinet.

It really shouldn't ever need fluid. This is a sealed system, and what that means is it does not "consume" fluid. If it needs fluid, it is leaking fluid. And yeah, if it is low you need to have the leak fixed.

Have you looked into the Carvewright or CNC Shark? They are not quite these large machines, but they may be an affordable alternative for you. I belong to a woodworking site and have seen several builds people have done to build their own as well, and some of them are amazing machines.

FWIW I have also had good luck with sonicelectronix.com as well. Just another inexpensive online store for you to look at. I have bought several head units from them for myself, friends, and customers.

Describe "loose" for me. Is the pedal going to the floor, is the pedal soft, does it work at all, does it not begin to engage until it is low, or what? Without being able to drive the car it is hard to get an idea of what you are talking about. If it is a hydraulic clutch it uses brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it will absorb water. Water does boil and become a vapor, so it can create air pockets when hot. This is why we flush brake fluid. But TBH it is an extremely rare phenomenon in your average everyday car, and frankly one I have never seen it occur in a hydraulic clutch. Yes it goes on to the floor doesn't let you into gears. It uses brake fluid. So im guessing its hydraulic. We recently put some in, DOT3 fluid. When this happens the car still turns on but it doesn't go into gear(s). This relly only happens about once every 1 or 2 months. This isn't normal right? No, it's not normal. So I guess if you are putting fluid in it, that you are losing fluid, correct? If so it would seem like you have a leak in the system. You have a clutch master cylinder, which is exactly like a brake master, which is where you put your fluid in. Usually they leak out the rear seal. To check this, get under the dash on the driver's side and follow the rod that connects to the clutch pedal to the firewall. There will be a rubber boot there that looks like a bellows in most cases. Pull the boot back and check for brake fluid. You might have enough of a leak that you will see the fluid there without pulling the boot back if you get lucky. You will also have a rubber line or 2 between the master and slave (which is a cylinder on the transmission). Check those for leaks as well. Finally, that cylinder on the tranny, it will have a boot on it too, pull it back and check for fluid in it, if it isn't leaking very obviously. But the odds are that the mechanic who pulled the tranny to do the clutch would have seen the slave leaking. I would think the clutch master is the most likely culprit.

I checked out a lot of your site. Looks great! One thing, I would make the images into clickable links, as well as the text below it. Also on the AA Mayhem build, you have a typo: Options: Double Baffle, Flush Mount, Keft Port Other then that, it looks great! Oh, and do you guys own that CNC router, or is it someone you know? Those are sweet machines!

no problem. We're cool, man.

I have bought a bunch of stuff from them. Nothing but good experiences in dealing with them.

Describe "loose" for me. Is the pedal going to the floor, is the pedal soft, does it work at all, does it not begin to engage until it is low, or what? Without being able to drive the car it is hard to get an idea of what you are talking about. If it is a hydraulic clutch it uses brake fluid. Brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means it will absorb water. Water does boil and become a vapor, so it can create air pockets when hot. This is why we flush brake fluid. But TBH it is an extremely rare phenomenon in your average everyday car, and frankly one I have never seen it occur in a hydraulic clutch.

So, this stupid broad comes into the shop on Monday asking about brakes for her 2007 Sebring. She said they were grinding. So we gave her an estimate, and told her what it would cost extra should she need rotors. Well, she decided to drive away on her grinding brakes to get other estimates. This morning, the lovely, intelligent young lady brings her car back in. Today she decides she wants us to lift the car and tell her what is wrong. Apparently on Wednesday the car stopped grinding, but she suddenly had a really crappy pedal and her red brake light is on. So I knew right away i wasn't about to test drive this thing, as I knew what I would find. Sure enough I lift the car and see fluid all over the right fender apron. When I jerked the wheel I found exactly what I knew I would. She had driven the car so much that the rotor got so thin that the pad got thrown out of the mount. So she stopped hearing the grind when the piston became her brake pad. But she also lost pedal when the piston ejected itself from the bore and pissed all the brake fluid all over the place. So we give her an estimate to replace the rotors, calipers, and pads. She asked me to put it back together again, because she was going to try to ride around and find a better price. People are so fuckin ignorant. I really hope she runs into a damn tree or some such shit, as nobody else deserves to suffer for her ignorance, but her insurance company needs to be aware of the kind of fuckin moron they are insuring.

Being that a sub is non-directional it's placement doesn't really matter.

I refuse to live in an HOA environment.

There's a reason they don't let you use aluminum wire in houses anymore :lol: It is actually because of expansion and contraction rates. They were causing the terminations to loosen over time and start fires.

Yes and yes. Welding cable is a fantastic conductor, and exceptionally flexible. Coaxial cable is basically just a shielded conductor. IMO it is superior to all UTPs out there. Also, if you go ahead and step up to a Canare system, including their cable and connector technology, you wind up with what many consider as superior to the vast majority of low level transfer out there. Being that you are a clipper, I would assume you are using Canare or similar crimping device, so getting a good set of ends will get you set up right.