pro-rabbit

These went rather quick lol....

If you are painting the entire enclosure(which we only do with fiberglass), you will need to sand everything 100% smooth. Then putty in all seems to hide them from being visible once painted. Then you will need to take typical painting steps to ensure you get the results you are looking for.

The paint is more about the prep work then anything. Just like a car, if you don't take the time for proper prep work it won't come out like you want.

For our "Black Friday" sale we will be offering free shipping on enclosures up to 3.5ft3 of net volume with our standard pricing. While this is going to be limited quantity sale, I'm going to start taking orders right now!! Once we have sold out of the sale I will post up and let everyone know. This only applies to new orders starting right now... This will likely slow down production just a bit, but it should be to bad. We just ordered a large amount of MDF and Birch as well as refreshing our entire stock of carpet. Our standard pricing can be found here... NEW Pricing!!!!! FT^3................SEALED........PORTED 1.0 cubes...........$60.............$100 1.5 cubes...........$70............$110 2.0 cubes...........$80............$120 2.5 cubes...........$90............$130 3.0 cubes...........$100...........$140 3.5 cubes ..........$110...........$150 4.0 cubes...........$120...........$160 4.5 cubes...........$130...........$170 5.0 cubes...........$150...........$180 5.5 cubes...........$160...........$200 6.0 cubes...........$170...........$210 STage 1(included in basic pricing) basic carpet terminal rounded port edges bracing as needed 45's Up to two sub woofer cut outs Stage 2 $15 extra All of stage 1+ Double Baffle with or with out flush mounting (up to two sub woofer cut outs) Kerf Port $15 per Kerf Extra sub Cut outs $5/ea Carpet can be customized to your application and will be priced per request Plexi glass will be priced per request Any cutomization can be done per request

Some do and some don't. We use 12volt fans under the flush panel to help with ventilation issues, typically works just fine like that.

Thank you. The rear were the amps are is just trim panels. In order to make it look "flush" you just put the enclosure inside the trunk like normal, mount the amps on a basic amp rack like normal. Then you take cardboard or other material and cut it to fit just around the area you want to hide/flush and trim it to fit around the amps. Trace that onto wood and cut it out. Always cut larger so you can trim it to fit. Once you have it fitting like you want, just warp it up in your choice of material.

Thanks!! I will try and get some soon. It all falls down to our clients though. Most just want to upgrade stock or do some adapters to change what goes where. Which is unfortunate, but a part of the industry. I know we have two up coming builds that will be more geared to SQ and allowing us to do more glass work and such, I'm ready for those builds!! lol

Just a few things from the weekend... Need to get back into taking pictures of everything we do, but it always slips my mind. This is a local's car, wanted something a bit basic/simple.(changed his mind on what he wanted all the way up until he picked it up lol) This is a few pics of the amp rack for Whattha‎'s truck. (Will get more pics when we do an electrical upgrade. Flushed the 3500 into the side of the amp rack so the settings can be altered easily. A few more random pictures...

It's holding up pretty well for the most part. We took the baffle back out to alter a few things, but we tested it with about 80% full power and the back window/hatch looked as if it was going to simply fly off. I will see if we can get a better video of it this week while it's sitting here at the shop. Get a 25hz full power hair trick or something..... I bet the shops around us hate us when we test that thing.

Yes sir. Running on about 12.2 volts do to the alt setup not being installed yet.

Very small section of video of what is to come...... This is walled but this was just a test to ensure we were up and running..no baffles or sealing off yet. **warning** Foul language at the beginning. http://s91.photobuck...ffleyoutube.mp4

I was digging for your email and I can not find it right now. It was on my list to get you a response tonight. Could you PM me your email addy so I can you some info. BTW I still like the color.

This is debatable. In some cases it will, but it is very minimal. If this is a daily application it won't make a difference in sound produced or volume, but yes it may lower your reading on the meter.

Each vehicle has different gains and nulls. Depending on your goals is what would dictate the tuning though.

I have to say.... I love that color!!!!!

I was referring to the convex cap. I'm not sure I want to do anything with the full/partial cone concave caps.

I see the smaller cap has a nice flare to help with installing/hiding glue. Will the larger ones have that option? If so I may need to have a conversation about large bulk ordering. Any other colors? Red/Gray or Red/Black perhaps?

Having heat on the cap is a result of the coil be far to hot. There is only a few things that will cause heat, one being clipping the signal, the other would be improper enclosure, the other is just to much actual power.

Interesting, I never looked into those kits before. However, after your mentioning it(and doing some quick research) I can see where you could ask that.

That is pretty interesting. Once you get something ready let me know I may be down for doing up some testing/reviews for you. I have been looking at several CNC machines over the past year with the plan to get one in the first quarter of next year.

I would measure out the area you have to work with and go from there. The Gcon gets my vote. We have built many enclosures for them not heard a single negative review on those drivers.

Tuning is more about the vehicle application and desired results. In relative terms, when 99% of most talk about tuning, they are talking about what an enclosure would be tuned to in an open area, not inside a vehicle.

Instead of stuffing more batteries back there, an alt would be a far better investment.

Honestly, if you are just wanting it to "work" then I would just use the free design. If that does not meet your requirements then have a designer work out a design for your exact needs.

Their pre-designed enclosures work decently well over all. However, their design can be improved on based on the application and goals.