ford302redneck

Hell yeah. A few weeks ago, at the end of the day, I closed the top of my tool box in my shop. Next day, I go to open the lid up to get something out one of the draws, and there was a rats nest and all kind of cotton and other material, full of babies. Not little new borns, but a week or two old. Hell the week after, found another litter in the same toolbox. They everywhere this year it seems. I usually don't have that much of a problem. I need a cat, but my shop/farm is at my granny's house, and she's got chickens and I usta have some, so no cat.

What difference would that make? Have you heard of the law of diminishing returns? Always better to tune for the desired response based on each specific woofers specifications, blindly offering anything else isn't a good idea. You should already know, low tuning=SQ. Come on now, get with the program noob.

This. I forget if it was on here or SMD though Good point, I know I read it somewhere?

I'm 99% sure also. Should be no problem reconing a D2 motor to a D1 voicecoil. I actually think this question has been answered in this section before. So take a few minutes and search this section and see if you can find it.

Thank you, you taught yourself something today. I was thinking the same thing when I read that. Never the less, somebody thinking your a noob, that's funny. Lol. Also, did you ever finish your testing and review on the AA SMD that you posted on SMD forum? I haven't been there in a while to check the thread. And I love your baffle, its a work of art, and I can only imagine how much work went into it.

Not a vucuum, to my knowlegde. I've had one of those, a small one and lost a good bit of power it seemed. But you are right, there probably is a problem I'm overlooking. It doesn't matter now, as I don't even drive the car anymore. I got sick of the little problems, and took insurance off of it. It has over 200k miles, just about everything is wore in pretty good. I've been meaning to start rebuilding it, just haven't had the time or extra money yet. And its a manual btw. And if I could crank it up, I would take a video, but I got a rodent problem now, so last time I switched the key on, a lot of funny stuff happened. Sooo now its got even more problems.

Because the amp is on all the time... And its drawing current, even if your not playing anything. Some companies even list how much current is drawn at idle. Obviously you got the wrong wired hooked up. All you need is a wire that gets power when you cut the key on. If your having that much problem finding the remote, use the RED wire for your headunit. Only difference, the headunit controls the remote, and if you turn it off, it cuts the power to amp. Where connecting to the RED, will only cut off by the key. Also, you should be able to go to google and find a wiring diagram for that headunit. It will tell you which wire is really the remote.

Protect? That's not a good sign regardless. Try using a jumper wire from your positive on your amp to your remote and see if it turns on? If your clueless about what I'm talking about, then don't do it. But basically, take a short run of remote style wire and connect it to the remote terminal? Then on the other end connect to the positive of the amp. Don't leave it like that, but it will tell you if the amp works or not.

Who else has a Neo ~1000RMS,USA Made, and or around $200 dollar sub? Nobody, and seems won't be one for a good while or ever, not with all three of those. You won't find a ~$200 dollar USA Made ~1000RMS sub either. Yeah, I think a lot of people is disappointed Neo didn't work out, but as Nick said, they just couldn't find a to make it happen affordable, which is a huge deal for most people. But also, if there wasn't no real performance gain and only a little weight difference, I don't see any point to spend extra money. Sure it would of been super sweet to have one, but its not the end of the World or will this make or break Fi. They still have some of(maybe the best) quality in this industry, and is all USA made for a very affordable price, less than 90% of 100% China made drivers. So if your that disappointed Neo didn't happen, I'm sure you'll probably be even more disappointed going with another company.

The original SSD was 800 watts "stock", and overall is different than a Q, and not just power handling. Different strokes for different folks, can't just offer two subs for every install, not what Fi is about. Enough options to fit almost every bodies specific install, instead of you designing your install around a mass produced universal sub. I mean, you got to design around which ever sub you choose, but you got way more options instead of what the manufacture thinks you want.

Now I agree with a typo, it happens to the best of us. But usually rereading your post before you make it will rule out most mistakes. I didn't see the humor in missing one letter from a word though. But having to read something over and over just to try and understand what somebody is trying to say isn't up to par. Definitely if your asking for help. Even though I pretty much understood what the OP was saying, still better overall English would of made it WAY easier.

Mechman. I never said anything like you didn't have the right to protect your product. I just felt you came into here raving prematurely about people coping your product, when I don't think anybody had the intentions. I know I didn't anyways, I even stated your product was different than the topic, and that's why it cost more. But I still don't see grounds for a lawsuit, if you decided that's what you wanted to do. Even though I'm not involved in the legal system and don't know all the laws and such. I mean you can try to sue over anything, but winning is another thing. To the Throttle part, I was trying to bring my idle down, because it would hang at ~1800RPM, and get set at 1200RPM(I can't remember the exact idle before hand, been a while since I've messed with the car.). Found a topic on hanging idle, and it advised to check TPS voltage. I did and it wasn't with end the correct voltage. So I adjusted it, and when I got to a certain point, my voltage would drop to 12. And it would idle super low. And if I turned it up a little, it would hang at 1200. So it was either hang and idle at 1200, or idle low with no hanging idle. In this topic, I was just suggested checking TPS instead of "pulling a vacuum line" as the poster stated. Also, I didn't edit any of my posts, so if your talking about me, you must of got something confused. Well, I take that back, somebody else could of edited mine, I haven't went back and read all of mine.

A power attena doesn't work as a remote turn on for an amp. I've seen plenty of people make this mistake, so try hooking it up to the proper wire and you should be good to go. Amazing how you can have 3500watts and yet doesn't know the basics in car audio. Plus when trying to explain a problem, you can't even use basic sentence structure and grammar. Spelling is a common problem a lot of people have, but not being able to properly write simple sentence? Come on, you can't be that uneducated. There is help for people that can't spell, I guess they need something called grammarcheck. You'll find out people are less willing to help if they have to put in extra effort in just reading your post.

Depends on which version it is, I'm not sure if the older one came with a quad coil or not. The last versions have a DD/AQ stylish basket, 4inch coil, not sure of actually motor specs other than that. I just know they sure aren't anything special, no offense to anybody that owns one. I looked at the new X3's, and those look super cheap. Looks like a Vibe or Lanzar sub(can't exactly remember), with the ribbed surround and logo on dustcap. A few companies sub's can pull off ribbed surround(most seem to be rubber), but these seem to have foam. Turned me off, even thought I was never turned on. I hope they serve more of a purpose than looks, because they really kill any hope it might of had.

Defintely when SS doesn't have the best quality control. I've heard of plenty just having manufacture problem failures, as gluejoints failing and such. And they sure aren't 10000RMS either. Maybe for a one second burp it will take that, but that's nothing special at all these days.

i can take the pic down, your product wasnt the basis of this thread when it first started, but my opinion got intertwined somewhere along the way. so like i said dont take any offense, most ppl are too lazy to go out and figure things like this out anyway and would rather be able to plug and go about there business. Yeah, I never said anything adjusting throttle blade set screw. Then act like I'm missinforming people, HaHa. Also, I'd like to say, as long as the picture is used for education and discussing purpose, usually isn't a copyright problem, so therefore doesn't need permissions. Maybe somebody need to learn copyright law a little better. Also, it was made clear that it was Mechman's product, not like somebody was using it for their own gain. a Someone mentioned something about an 8mm wrench, you use that to adjust the throttle plate, not the TPS. Maybe I misread, maybe not, but you did mention idle problems? As for adjusting the TPS to control your idle, that may or may not have a good result for you with Ford EECIV or Ford EECV system. Having owned several, raced many and built countless EECIV controlled cars I have a little experience in this. If I misunderstood what you were trying to do here excuse me for trying to help. You mentioned continual idle problems, did you fix them? What kind of problem are you having with your Ford? I can help quite a bit as I spent thousands of hours under the hood of Mustangs building, tuning and racing them. I usually have at least on Ford as a DD, right now it's a Crown Vic PI, but Mustangs are my thing. The picture is of my product and was used in a discussion covering how to adjust voltage. Did I say that it was a copyright issue? This thread was going down the path of dissecting my product and building more for profit. When people start talking about building their own and my product is pictured why don't you talk to your lawyer about how that works. I have said that the design should be your own, not my design, nothing about copyright or even better, PATENT law. The photo isn't copyrighted but have you checked for a patent on the design? The idea of being able to raise charging voltage is good, using resistance in the sense circuit is the way to do it, but not all regulators work the same even in the same model alternator. In that respect I am just trying to keep some of you from having issues by trying to add resistance. Some regulators will have batt voltage going to the sense lead in the plug but will not read from there, they will read from inside the regulator. By adding resistance to the sense lead in that type of unit you will either create a constant fluctuation in the voltage or no adjustment. Some will trigger battery warning lights. On some units they changed the pin they used for sensing. Variables in the Ford 3G/4G/6G alternators are so many that I can't even remember them all. We have a solution for the units that can't be externally adjusted, it's more than a plug-in harness. We also have a protection in our design to prevent catastrophic overcharging. I'm not saying to not add resistors, just be cautious when doing this so you don't create problems in your charging system. But nobody directly said ANYTHING about copying your product exactly. Actually MLA was brought up in the post where the guy said I should start making My own. Unless your product works the same way as the topic of this thread, I doubt he was going to copy your design. Regardless, if you think its nessacercy, I'd like to see a lawsuit stick against the guy that posted your product. But still, this thread wasn't going down any path desecting your product to make profit. So your saying, if I noticed a niche market for a certain product, I can't use another companies product as a inspiration to do my own thing? I think everybody has done that at some point. Just because they don't public state it, doesn't mean they don't. I just think you went off a little early raving about people stealing your product. To the TPS topic, I still never said adjust the throttle blade set screw. I think I actually said that it wasn't that one to make sure nobody would get confused. And yes, I've tried messing with my TPS cause of a hanging idle problem. That's why you rev up the engine, and the RPMs drop normal until 1500ish, and hangs for a few seconds then drops back to normal idle. And I explained why I had problems in my other post on page 2? I have a overwound HO alt with underdrive pullies that doesn't put hardly anything at the right TPS voltage. And you adjust the tps voltage by adjusting a allen screw on the side of the TB. It has a little hole that allows air to get past the blade when its shut, therefore changing your idle. I have a 94 Mustang GT. And these had different TB than any other 5.0, so if you haven't messed with one, that might be why you didn't understand the screw part.

Its from Facebook and it synced my friends to my contacts and adds Birthday and Facebook default picture. So when its some bodies birthday, it sends me a notification reminding me. And if I don't do it when it notifies me, I usually forget. So that's why if your really worried about it.

My phone decided to tell me it was your Birthday, soooooo HAPPY BIRTHDAY pimp, hope its a good one. Well, on the east coast it is. I'm not sure if your here or there. Lol.

i can take the pic down, your product wasnt the basis of this thread when it first started, but my opinion got intertwined somewhere along the way. so like i said dont take any offense, most ppl are too lazy to go out and figure things like this out anyway and would rather be able to plug and go about there business. Yeah, I never said anything adjusting throttle blade set screw. Then act like I'm missinforming people, HaHa. Also, I'd like to say, as long as the picture is used for education and discussing purpose, usually isn't a copyright problem, so therefore doesn't need permissions. Maybe somebody need to learn copyright law a little better. Also, it was made clear that it was Mechman's product, not like somebody was using it for their own gain. a

Basically the screw I'm talking about is for adjusting the TPS sensor, but depending on which Navi you have, it could vary on how to do this. Here's a link of a quick search I did, I'd try this first and see what your TPS voltage is. This could be a solution for your problem. I've done this on my 94 Mustang GT to fix the "hanging idle" problem, even though it didn't cure it. But it did help, my main problem was when I got the TPS voltage where it was suppose to be, the RPMs was to loW for my overwound cheap Alt that has little output, and my voltage would drop. So basically if I set it at 14volts, it would idle low, and drop to 12volts. And if I reset it at 12volts, it would idle high and having a hanging idle. It was a lose lose it seems. I gave up and just left it ilding low. Link... http://fordtruckworld.tenmagazines.com/ew/forums/Topic.asp?id=429510&pos=1 I'm not sure if that link is clickable, I'm on a phone and being lazy to figure out the correct way.

Its not a set screw for your throttle cable. Let me see if I can find a picture and point out what I'm talking about. It will probably be tomorrow before I have a chance though.

That's kind of expensive, seeing as $2.49 gets you 4 diodes. Unless you don't want to cut your wiring, but still, I'm sure you can buy the plugs and make it yourself cheaper than that.

Mine was orange also. Also, what type of car do you have? I don't see you would want to create a vacuum leak to raise RPM, I know which my mustang, I had a screw I could turn to adjust the idle. It adjusted the air coming in through a small hole in the throttle body.

So installed mine today. Sorry, but no pictures. It was super hot today, and by the time I remembered, I already heat shrinked the wires and it was all covered up. Outcome, worked extremely well. All I did was find the constant wire, cut it and put the diode in between. Soldered everything up and cranked my truck up and instant increase of voltage. The voltage at battery after the diode at idle was 14.8volts. But the before and after I'm going by is the cheap plug into AUX outlet volt meter from Walmart. Before:13.8volt, it would hit 14.0 cold with no big load rarely if I was reving up. After:14.6 volts HOT at idle. Couldn't get it to move regardless of RPM. Also, if I had AC on Blast and music up loud,(I have clamped around 400watts, but the amp blows 2:40amp fuses on command. This is when I need a DC Clamp meter, I only have a AC.), and lights on, voltage would instantly drop to 12.8, but after reving, back to 14-14.2volts. Even before, at idle with similar load, it would drop to the 12s. This is really need a DC clamp, I've been wanting/needing one for a while. Just don't want to shell out for a good one, when I don't have to have it. I would of loved to clamp before and after the diode. To see if the alt is actually producing more current or not. I semi hope so, so it will Maybe charge my battery better. My resting voltage isn't the highest, even though their are two new batteries. With 1000CA, and still drops to 10.9 while starting, even in the summer.(I have a diesel, Glow plugs plug a good bit of current.) But regardless, I would assume with a semi hot motor and resting voltage in mid 12s, dropping to 10.9 and lower isn't normal. But this seems like a cheap homemade way to increase voltage, and if you can, I suggest it. And report back with your results. Edit. I would like to point out I idle around 500RPMs. Give or take, this is just going by the needle.

I'm going to try this tomorrow. I will take pictures and report how I did it and if it worked well or not.