Jmac

http://www.broadbandreports.com/stest

Some ISPs have their own servers which come unadvertised with your internet service ... You have to phone them to get the following information ...Server IP Address(es) User Name & Password Retention Rate Download Limit Then you also need a program to download files off newsgroup servers (I can give you NewsBin Pro) If your ISP doesn't have a server, you will have to buy one to use them. They're not expensive and well worth it, IMO. Very easy to use your connection to its full potential.

Kent, don't worry about it ... I'll contribute to the next letter Of course, this means I don't have to worry about Steve stalking me ... for now ... I hope

doooo it! I was supposed to be a part of Kent's letter, but he didn't ask to get my contribution before he sent it ...

I take it I shouldn't send you a letter, too ?

I have 5 Mbps Cable (5 Mbps = 640 KB/s). I've been thinking about upgrading to 7 Mbps for $10/month more (7 Mbps = 896 KB/s). Why can't I edit my original post ? Blah ...

Post your typical download speed and what you use to download. NewsBin Pro - 500-640 KB/s (usually upper-500s)

http://jmac.realmofexcursion.com/ I recommend you download the .rar package (contains all 74 tones) as it's only like 2-4x larger than a single tone. To unpack the .rar package, you'll need something like WinRAR - http://www.rarlabs.com/download.htm

Mostly Newsgroups ... Downloading at 600 KB/s, I can get a 4.7 GB DVD in less than 3 hours. Porn on DVD pWnz. If I can't get what I want off Newsgroups, I'd normally turn to Bittorrent (usually between 50-300 KB/s), but my ISP has introduced a download speed limit on torrents this month I usually just pick 2 or 3 movies to download before I go to bed and, by the time I get up, I have 13 GB of DVDs on my hard drive

Gonna be a long day today ... ran out of hard drive space (two 120 GB hard drives), so now I have to burn all my movies, TV shows, porn, etc. to DVD/CD so I can download more

<--- Thinks Bitlord sucks ...

Tons of small sports car companies have been using them ... sometimes even a pair ... Most of the cars with the fastest 0-100-0 times use either the GSX1300R, CBR1000RR, or Kawasaki ZX1000R engines ...

You can find fault with any test, fortunately ... 1) He used the same 2 enclosures for all 3 subs. They may only be optomized for 1 sub. 2) He said the RL-p was reaching its mechanical limits quite easily in that enclosure. One would assume it would perform better in a smaller enclosure. 3) He did the SQ tests in the same enclosures he used in the SPL tests. He also complains about "boomy" sound from the RL-p when it's in an enclosure that's 50% larger than recommended. I mean, I'm not going to dismiss the testing all together, but I see those 3 major faults and a few other ones, too.

People are sheep and, apparently, they're very willing to follow sheppard spkrman ... His tests do seem to prove that that Type-R is a pretty potent SPL sub, though. I'm not sure about his "SQ" tests or the advertisement that he's sending the sub 2500 watts during the testing ... Most sheep will most likely end up blowing their subs WHEN they try it ... Then those sheep will turn on the Type-R because it blew (it's ALWAYS the woofer's fault) ... Oh the joys of the bandwagon cycle ...

I really wish the caraudio.com admin would give us the tools to do our jobs properly ... Mods on almost any other forum can do a hell of a lot more and they don't have nearly as many problems as we do ...

You bunched the Zetec and Duratec in the same category ... The Zetec was originally made by Ford but had serious problems. Ford then contracted Yamaha to redesign and make the engine for them. The 4-cylinder Duratec was developed and is made by Mazda (same as the MZR series). Duratec engines with more than 4 cylinders are not made by Mazda. Yes, it's confusing, but it's Ford ... I also forgot the F-series for Honda (F20C/F22C = S2000 engine)

Dodge A855 (SRT-4) Ford Zetec GM Ecotec Honda B, H, & K series Mazda MZ series (Ford Duratec) Mercedes-Benz E23 Kompressor Mitsubishi 4G63 Nissan KA, SR, and FJ series Porsche M44 Subaru FJ series Suzuki Hayabusa (bike engine, but quite popular in sports cars) Toyota 1ZZ-FE, 2ZZ-GE, 3S-GTE, 4A-GE Volkswagen/Audi EA113 (1.8T) I think that's all the note-worthy 4-cylinder engines ...

Trying Opera (reg code worked) but I'm really not liking it ... I can't move the toolbars where I want them and it's much slower than IE ...

Oh, okay, I just did the math Calculating air density is more complex than that ... Here's the shortcut form that is mostly correct (but incorrect between -1 and 1 degree celcius) ... Only reason I use this is because the actual equation is really, really long ... AIR = ((BAR*1000/(287.05*(TEMP+273.15)))+(100*(6.1078*10^((7.5*TEMP)/(237.3+TEMP)))*HUM/100/((461.495*TEMP)))) AIR = Air density in kg/m^3 BAR = Barometric Pressure in kPa TEMP = Ambient temperature in *C HUM = Relative Humidity in %

I get 92.829% ...

Again, it's still there on my computer

I can still see it :confused:

She'd make me make it into a Care Bear Cloud Car ...

You're talking about me, right ? That's a nasty colour MOTOR IS STOCK LS1.HAS Z06 INTAKE AND PORTED THROTTLE BODY CAR DYNOED AT 356 HP AND 358 TORQUE CAR RAN A ... 11.92 @ 114 IN THE 1/4 V8 + light chassis = t3h w1n

If it's a nylon rope, you should be able to melt it back together ...