Infinity

Will the new one go ported in the same tiny enclosures the e8 does? I only have 1 e8, but I could fit 4 ported, and may go with the new ones when they come about.

Adult Friend Finder is the largest, most effective advertiser on the internet. I can't freaking stand the spam, though.

Yeah, I bugged him about doing it as a full-range Class D- that way it wouldn't be 36" long

I need one. Yep, just a single.

I put one of them that came with my subs on my tool box. Every car audio sticker I've ever received (1 per brand) goes there. Yours look good. Can you do custom layouts if provided with artwork?

I'm watching this build because the process interests me. How did you make that cartoony photo with the Hifonics, and I assume, your daughter? BTW, cute little girl- I hope mine will help me with my installs when she's old enough.

What sort of terminal do you prefer over spring loaded? Honestly, I'm not sure what would work any better in this configuration. I happen to like set screws, but I could see them being a pain. I probably wouldn't have had any issues if I'd hooked them like most would, but my "jumpers" running between coils are the absolute minimum length they can be, and are hugged tightly around the neck of the motor, then inserted from teh inside of the terminals. Combine that with the 10ag wire and it was frustrating for a few minutes.

Sorry for not coming through with pics last week, but Flakko's photography skills kill mine anyway. So far, the driver is built well, and teh finish is decent. It looks like there wasn't a bunch of extra $$ spent on bling, and I like that. My backplates had a few machine marks and such, but again, no biggie. The only thing I'd like to see changed in the future is the input terminals. While I don't hate the spring-loaded terminals, they are kinda tough to use on dual-coil woofers. Maybe if they were on neighboring legs of the basket, or a block to hold both sets on one leg. It's another thing that wouldn't have been an issue, but I was using 10ag wire since that's what I had already, and it was just tough for my big hams to manipulate the wire in place. I will get pics installed in the truck when I do that, hopefully right after Christmas. I'm hoping they sound as simple and elegant as they look.

In the morning. I just got home from the father-in-law's, and he gave us a new camera for Christmas. I'm going to work now.

Got 'em. UPS annihilated one of the cartons, but the inner packing and woofer were still perfect. These things look dead sexy up close. Nice fit/finish. I can't wait to hook them up (next week). I do know they fit in my box!!!

No kidding. Mine should be in hand on either Monday or Tuesday. YAY! I'm using .6 cube sealed enclosures. How much Polyfill before it becomes detrimental?

...Or behind the seats of a Sport Trac

My amp does 450-500 at 4 ohm, or 900 at 1 ohm. Will there be any real advantage to wiring 1 over 4? Will I even get a substantial increase in output, or have I reached compression before that point? Or, are you all going to tell me to try it and post my findings

Well, Jake. Money sent. I hope these work as well as they model.

Unless you tune somewhere in the infrasound range, I doubt it... Do tell? Well, maybe I wasn't quite specific. I want the strongest low end I can get in the paltry space I have. Midbass is no issue, but low end is. For power, I'll have the sub channel of a Power1000 at whatever load I feel will be sufficient. I wonder if 4 of the 8's would work better than the pair of 10's?

So, what will the depth be on these? I'm thinking that 2 of these ported may just outperform 2 of the 10 SD1v2's sealed in the same space that I have, giving me lower extension. If you can get these in at under 5", it just may be a go for me.

Bumping this one up just to keep interest going. I NEED these.

Can you guys at Fi build passive radiators that have stupid amounts of displacement on a 12 or 15" frame? I can get some 18's, but they're too tall for my purposes (I think). I don't have my new car yet, so I'm attempting to draw out something insanely different

It will not be the 12 spoke I'll tell you that much... That means there's still hope for me.

Hey, Mark. Can you tell me what basket these will be using, assuming that part is already decided upon? That way I can see if I should await their arrival or move on. The fit I'm looking for is tough, and the 12 spoke basket won't seal properly where I need it.

That is actually more common than most people know. It is a human error that is actually fairly simple to mess up at the factory. I've seen some TC-made Elementals, a JL w6, and now these Fi's. No big deal if the company involved fixes it.

http://www.woodlawncabinetry.com/Elemental...stom_Boxes.html It'll be quite obvious which box, since it says 2002 Mustang. I actually still have the box, but the car's been gone for 2 years. No one local seems to want it, and I can't just throw it away, so it's full of stuffed animals in the spare bedroom Testing in the car showed that either up or back worked VERY well. Back rattled less, but up was sufficient for SPL and SQ. Firing forward didn't work well, even when sealed from the rear of the car. I'm not sure why. Also, up and back at the same time worked very well, with no cancellation issues if you decided to do multiple woofers. I did 4x10 sealed (2 up and 2 back)before going with the ported enclosure.

The box must go through an opening that measures 30"x14". So, a box that measures 30" width x 14" height x 16-23" depth would fit. I have the space for the recommended 2.2 ft^3, but I am unsure of the pros/cons of having the woofer fire upwards in a trunk. Space between the woofer and the rear deck would be around 3-5 inches, and 7 inches between the magnet and the bottom of the box. If you angle the face of the box, you can fit a pair of 15's into the 94-04 Mustangs. You can get up to 5.5cu without building it in the trunk. Firing up works well in those cars, but the rear deck will rattle badly, as will the trunk lid. If it's an 05+ Mustang, the only issue you'll face is the odd "dropoff" right behind the seat. Unfortunately, I am working with a circular saw (rather than a table saw) and I have never attempted angled cuts, so I would like to keep all the cuts at 90 degrees, but that is something I will consider. I do plan on deadening the trunk and rear deck; do you think it will still rattle pretty badly? It's a Mustang, it's going to rattle. The question is whether or not you can get it to your acceptable level. I had trouble with the rear deck of my '02 rattling against the back glass. It was an easy fix, but it took me forever to actually find the rattle itself. Also, if you don't mind a bit of work, you can squeak a bit more airspace by extending the box over the shock mounts. I had Phil at Woodlawn build my design (was in an apartment at the time). You can see what I mean by looking at the Elemental Design enclosure at Woodlawn- second one down. It's a good design that can be expanded to hold various configurations, and it cannot come out of the car without first removing the rear seat

The box must go through an opening that measures 30"x14". So, a box that measures 30" width x 14" height x 16-23" depth would fit. I have the space for the recommended 2.2 ft^3, but I am unsure of the pros/cons of having the woofer fire upwards in a trunk. Space between the woofer and the rear deck would be around 3-5 inches, and 7 inches between the magnet and the bottom of the box. If you angle the face of the box, you can fit a pair of 15's into the 94-04 Mustangs. You can get up to 5.5cu without building it in the trunk. Firing up works well in those cars, but the rear deck will rattle badly, as will the trunk lid. If it's an 05+ Mustang, the only issue you'll face is the odd "dropoff" right behind the seat.

Yeah, the only 8" I can find is the Pioneer. It will fit, but the 6-hole mounting won't allow the factory grill, and it's performance lacks on the low end. Decent midbass.