mlstrass

By changing the tweeters to out of phase what "might" I hear different?

What effect does it have when wiring the tweeters out of phase? I've heard that it can be another tuning aid, but not sure what it does, or is supposed to do to the soundstage or sound of the tweeter. Will it make them more laid back? Make them distort easier or affect power handling in any way? I ask because I want to make sure if I try it that I don't do more harm then good, so any caveats are appreciated. Searched online and didn't find any useful info, but figured some of the more experienced here might share.

Now that the tweeters are up higher and on-axis the whole soundstage just came alive. I'm quite happy with how it sounds now. Although I'd love some of the carbon fiber mids since they show. Maybe if they ever release them again.

Front mid is over the stock hole, but the back one required me to open up a 4" square. About 5 minutes with an air nibbler. I like the logo because it's easy to duplicate...

I run the Vifa XT25 ring radiator tweets and if you can get them on-axis they have an amazing sound. Not overly bright or laid back, just very detailed and a joy to listen to. Mine are paired with 2 AA poly mids per door and I'm quite happy with that set up. Far from "high end", but I'm far from an audiophile, and the countless hours I've spent tuning has really brought out all they have to offer.

I had to move the Vifa tweets up higher to get them more on axis, so I was stuck with a big hole in my new door pods. No way I was doing them again, so I came up with a pretty simple idea that looks pretty decent. More importantly the sound is WAY better now, which was the #1 goal. Pass side tweeter in it's new home. Whipped up some simple PVC angle mounts wrapped in gray carpet. $1.50 and about 30 minutes of time. Hard to make a large format tweeter look "good" in a car, but this will have to do. Close up of the driver's side panel. Fire up the "bat signal" and the caped crusader of midrange appears!!! Went with the blue theme to match my old eXcelon. Takes about 5 mintues for the blue controls to fully light up.

I actually just noticed slap on mine for the first time. Was playing Mark Morrison "Return of the mack" and it's THE only song that does it. Took em out and used the hot glue gun to build up a bead on the basket, then glued part of the lead to it, and no more slap. Easy 15 minute fix for 4 mids, so don't give up on em!!!!

x3 on the .5ohm wiring as I'm sure your amp won't support that load and is going into protect. Wire it up in series for a 2ohm load per the diagram above.

Tuning requires your ear x2 I tune by ear since it's my ears I'm trying to please with the sound...

Been working on an install for a guy and finally got to his front stage tonight. AA poly mids & CAL25 tweets running active off a 100.4 I spent about 5 minutes figuring out the dials, etc... and did a "best guess" for initial settings, then played some test tones to dial it in. I was SO close from the start and it only took about 30 minutes to get it all set up and sounding good. VERY nice amp for running active!!! Can't wait to strap the 1500D's to his sub tomorrow...

Install looks very good and nice equipment also. One thing you "might" want to do is put a dab of silicone in each fenderwell were the screws for the mounting brackets went through. Tires will throw a lot of water up there and unless you used SS, the screws will rust and let water get into the trunk. Don't want to see you ruin that nice install...

You sure the sub doesn't need a recone? Sounds like it might be damaged.

Looks good. You can also put a 45 in the back corner to help airflow...

It's a 2000 that I'm "stuck" with for a few more years after all the work I've done to it. LOL

I vote double baffle and window bracing as it ties all the sides together. Box will be VERY solid when done.

What kind of power does that amp do? I'm running 2 HD's off of 2 1500D's strapped at 1.5ohms. It's more than enough for daily and quite musical with the gain turned down a little. Gotta love that remote gain knob...

I'll 2nd the RL-P vote. VERY good SQ and 2 of them should be plenty loud/low when you want them to. If you're more about SQ, then get subs to meet that goal as you'll enjoy them more of the time vs the rare times you want to get really loud. IMO the RL-P has better SQ than the Q, not that the Q sounds bad, both are nice subs and the Q's will get louder. Decisions...decisions....

Go with the HDC315 when it comes out, or shop around for a used HD. I installed one a few months back, replaced 2 15" Rl-P's and it owned them in output, but SQ was not as tight, but fine for music in a daily driver. I'm now running 2 of the HD's and it does all that I want. Running a 15" FI Q in the GF's car and it's a nice sub, but not close to the output of the HD. And it's plenty unique as no one I've run across knows what they are, so I just tell em it's some flea market junk I picked up for cheap. Then they hear it and I laugh as their jaw hits the ground. LOL

Thanks Jake, I knew you'd come through. Is there an actual BP switch on the amp, I couldn't tell from the manual? Install will also have 2 1500D's strapped to a DD9515. I plan on taking some pics of the install...

I'm really happy with how it came out considering I had NO real idea on what I was doing, trying to accomplish. Just used some stuff I had in the garage. Total build time for both sides was about 20 hours. Wooden baffle really makes the poly mids stand out in person, better than the pics for sure.

Near Gurnee, IL, about 45 minutes north of chicago. I pick up all my AA stuff in person and Chad and I shoot the breeze for hours. He demoed a VERY impressive 18" HT sub for me last time I was there. I plan on doing a little tour once they have products ready for sale, take some pics, etc... to help get the word out.

One more shot of that awesome grain in the BB. Of course I'd have preferred some knots, but being a man made laminate there's usually none to be found.

Simple logo made out of 1/4" MDF using a coping saw. Painted Hammertone Gray and siliconed in place.

I this pic it almost looks like a seamless install along the top where the different contours were. I'm pretty happy with how it came out so far. Will be even better when the new angle mounts are done. I HATE waiting for poly to dry

I'm really diggin the grain of the wood and color of the stain. Took some serious thinking/fabricating to get the panel to sit flush against the contours of the stock panel. It's screwed on from the back side in about 12 places and solid as a rock.