Everything posted by dopey
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Your db Numbers
car: 2002 VW Passat Wagon Electrical: stock alt (90a) and bat Amps: 1 Sundown SAZ1500D Subs: 1 Fi BTL 15" Loaded Box: 4 cubic ft @ 31 hz Mic: TL Tone: 45-50 hz Score: 147.4
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my amplifier released some smoke.. what do i do **PICS**
It's a lanzar...I'd replace the amp.
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Fi Bl or BTL with RF T20001BD
4 cubes @ 32Hz. Build it yourself...or go to a cabinet shop and have them do it. If you want detailed plans...post the dimensions of the space it wil be installed in...pics are great too. The dimension that is the most "hard" should determine where you start. ie...if you want it to fit between the wheelwells that is a "hard" dimension...if you have a heigth restriction, that is another "hard" dimension.
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Who would do a 20"?
Audiobahn makes/made a 13.5 To the OP. I think there is a market for 20", however is it an audiophile niche. That allows a slightly higher price point, but it better be worth it. Will standard cone materials hold up under severe pressure at this diameter? Would cone flexing or rock present any problems? It seems to me that there would be a finite limit to size of driver (for audiophile use) based on cane material. The wider the cone, the thicker the cone to maintain linearity of the cone...which will increase mms. I believe a soft suspension and mechanical power handling of approx 500w would give the audiophiles what they're after and would also keep the major power "playas" from wanting it (reducing returns and "defects") imVho
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Enclosure/Port Questions Q18
I'm not sure I understand why you need another speaker for Infinite Baffle? Or did someone use IB to stand for Isobaric? I'll go out on a limb and say that 30cubes is a bit on the large size...that's effectively an IB anyway...in which case you won't have ports, so there will be no high velocity port turbulance to overcome. Why not build a 2.5" cube...4" wide slot port, 46inches long...gives you a tuning freq of 23hz, 114sqin of port area, and 10ish cubes (after bracing). That will give you a very flat response down to, or below, 20hz Otherwise I'd go sealed.
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Fi Bl or BTL with RF T20001BD
A few things to consider. The BTL has outstanding SQ, although the Q's MAY be MARGINALLY better. A single BTL will use less space than 2 Q's. I would venture that 2 Q's would be louder, however the BTL will get insanely loud. I believe 2 Q's would be lighter...hahahaha You really can't make a "wrong" choice here. I like to K.I.S.S. and stick with one sub whenever possible.
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Contemplating doing my own home audio set-up!
If your in a relationship, get the HT. If not, get the car. And, imvho, a projector, and a 5.1 would be the best of both worlds.
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fi btl power handling
Im gonna go out on a limb and say you CANT feed anything 4kw on a stock alt and battery. Period.
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3 18" BTL fully loaded, What enclosure?
15ish cubes tuned to 35hz?
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SSD wiring
- SSD wiring
- whats the *
Does anyone have the T/S's for fully loaded BTLs?- optimized enclosures
Works the other way around, FYI. +1- Spl on a budget
Id start with a sealed box with approx 1.5cuft per sub. See if that's loud enough for you. I had a couple aw12's a few years ago that got real loud sealed, but sounded like azz. After that I'd look at putting them in a slot port box with 4-5 cubes net tuned to 35hz. If they get loud and sound bad, tune deeper...if they don't get loud, tune higher.- Fi Bl or BTL with RF T20001BD
Let me be the first to recommend a fully loaded BTL. And possibly the first to welcome you to the board!- boxes
MDF will not come in as many grades as Birch. Birch is lighter...but more expensive. If you decide to go with Plywood, make sure you get VOIDFREE ply...that means there aren't any airpockets in the middle, which can cause rattles and buzzes. MDF wont have any voids so you don't need to worry about it. With proper bracing they will both be stiff enough...just birch will be lighter (something to think about if you're doubling up on wall thickness in a smaller car)- SUV Choice
Yep, very few vehicles can compete with the Xploder in that regard.- SUV Choice
3 words for all 3 of those: Waste of money. If you want a BMW, get a 6 series. If you want a Porsche, get a Cayman S. If you want a VW get anything but the Touareg. 3 vehicles that should have never been made. If you must have a European SUV (and I don't know why you would) get a Range Rover or a UNIMOG. A better description of a waste of money would be to buy anything new. The initial depreciation hit on any car is by far the biggest waste of money you can have when buying a vehicle. Of course since the OP is looking for a 2000 it knocks those choices out of the list anyways. C'mon Bimmer-boy...you should know that there's a 2000 x5. The VW was released in '02, and the Cayenne in '03...hardly out of range for what the OP said...go reread, he didn't say ONLY 2000...he said somewhere in the 2000 year range, which these sit RIGHT into.- optimized enclosures
Actual dimensions dont matter much...when compared to gross volume vs. net volume and port area vs. port length. Usually the closer your box is to a sphere...the better it'll sound. But as with anything car audio related...it's all in the install.- JL audio
Image Dynamics makes at least one...as does Fi, RE, TC Sounds, SI, and a boatload of others.- SUV Choice
X5, Cayenne, Touareg. In that order.- 1500d's OPINIONS NEEDED
I tried at the kicks too...but most I could muster was 144.x....my Passat Wagon has a long windshield and long dash...makes for high legal scores, imho- 1500d's OPINIONS NEEDED
147.4 outlaw...legal placement 10" up from dash 10" in from passenger A-pillar. 146.6 legal... ...in Arkansas...HA- BTLSs
+1 My loaded BTL 15 has GREAT sq. I can hear the actual viberations of bass strings on Police and Peter Gabriel recordings...not just the frequency! That, to me is SQ.- help with me btl selection
Typically it is 3rd magnet, full cooling, & hixmax coil. The dc resistance, and lead's are up to you. Extreme leads are said to make noise druing high excursion...the regular BTL leads are huge.