dopey

OIC Thanks.

Damn...I coulda had more headroom. Any chance of a recone with D1 and an extra spider

I believe that sponsors are looking more at you, than your car.

The diameter isn't big enough. You need more port area. That will increase the port length.

Not in a Bimmer. Stick the hard half of heavyduty velcro to the bottom of your box and it will not slide. If I wanted it PERMANENT I'd just bolt it to the floor.

The one in the middle isn't as cute as the other two... hahaha congrats LB!

Northwest Arkansas. Not exactly local, but the offer still stands.

I will get mine from a local battery specialty shop. I'm in northwest Arkansas. Shipping would be pretty expensive, but still MUCH less than a Kinetik in the end.

You can get everything done with $5000. New alt should be 400ish. Wire should be 200-300. Batterys should be 150-300ea. I'd say 200amp alt minimum. 2 runs of 1/0 wire (2 power x 2 ground) minimum. And 1 100+Ah battery minimum. 300 amp alt is plenty (depending on car this may not even be possible). 3 runs each power and ground is better (4 ea is best). 2 100+Ah battery is better 3 would be best. Any more than this for a single BTL is overkill (overkill is good) If you want more than 1600watts, you NEED the minimum mentioned.

I'm getting ready to run this on a set of midbasses, it used to push the hell out of some Orion XTR's. I love it, just wanting some info. Any you may have... Thanks.

With these? http://woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction...Product_ID=5352 Will the rli'8 play flat to 1000hz? 500?

See...Kinetik doesn't give a good spec description for that. At a direct short, BOTH batterys will deliver FARRRRRRRR more current than either rating. Kinetik doesn't specify how they arrive at that "amps" rating. Powersonic does. That is a plus for PowerSonic as far as I'm concerned. To me this is the equivilent of a "max wattage" figure on amps. If they list a "max wattage" but don't tell you how they got that figure...I try to stay away.

I like #10 1 5/8" Deck screws. The larger diameter makes them hold better. You MUST predrill!

I got into car audio about 12 years ago. I was a bass player and one day figured out that I could play CD's thru my bass amp. It was all downhill from there. I started listening to bass and rap CD's in the house. Then I realized I was missing something in the car. My first subs were Lanzar 12" OA's (designed for infinite baffle) in a large sealed box in the back of my 4Runner. Since then I have had Orion XTR's, Image Dynamics ID's, and some loud crappy Audiobahn's. I have always liked the sound of sealed systems, and the simplicity of build. I have heard MANY ported systems, and while they were always LOUD AS HELL, there were things I didn't like about them. Port chuffing was a BIG turnoff on most of the ported systems I've heard. Narrow frequency band was another. I sold my last subs a few years ago, and ever since I've been missing them. I just got a job, and have some xtra cash. First purchase was car audio gear. I wanted loudest possible in my car, and something loud and nice for the wifes car. Her system is what I'm reviewing today. I didn't sell the amp. It is a Lanzar VHC2000. The sub has the Copper coil option. And it's a dual 2ohm coil. The car is a stock BMW 330ci from 2002. The battery in these cars is in the trunk, so I ran 1/0 power and ground straight off the battery, about 4 feet. ( I didn't fuse the run either, I !DO NOT! recommend this, but it works for me.) For speaker wire, I had some 8ga power wire left over after a few older installs. The amp is supposed to make 1100w at 4ohm mono, but I seriously doubt that's happening. Look at the amp, that power IS NOT coming out of it. Anyway, the sub is sealed with approx 1.5cuft. The box is single walled MDF facing up in the trunk. I listen to a wide range of music. Everything from 'drum and bass' to 'house' to rap to hardcore techno to metal to emo to old country to old jazz. All of this can be found in my CD case. Mostly rap and metal though. The SSD has a HUGE low end. From 25hz to 40hz it (all by itself) is as loud as some systems with the same power and 2 12"s!!! It seems to be a little lacking in the upper bass, but thats fine with me, I live for the LOW LOW stuff. The low end of this sub makes me VERY happy. I just wish the 50-80hz would be as deafening. Songs like 50cent "Little Bit" are really loud, but "Toy Soldiers" isn't. "Toy Soldiers" was as loud on my last system as "Little Bit". I need to talk about the sound quality. pucking WONDERFUL! Even my Image Dynamics didn't sound this nice. The bass lines on The Who's greatest hits sounded woody and accurate. The bass and kick drums on Van Halen's "Panama" were perfect. Tori Amos's piano sounded real and balanced on "Mohammed My Friend". I just haven't heard bass this accurate before. ( I haven't heard the "Q", but after this, I can't believe that there is a big enough difference to warrant the extra cost.) I just love this sub. The upper bass (50-80hz) is softer and less defined. This allows it to blend with the factory system, and just fill out the lows. I plan ( and wonder if) putting this sub in a ported box would help "stiffen" the upper register. But I'm afraid that it will overpower the factory mids. I will built a new box in a few weeks and will update this. Summing up. Pros, cheap and loud. WONDERFUL SQ! Cons, upper register isn't as loud as I think it could be. This is the Lanzar that's powering it. This is the box it's in. This is the 8ga "power" wire I'm using as "speaker" wire This is showing the HUGE excursion on 30hz, 31hz, 32hz, 33hz, 34hz, 35hz. Any questions?

Ok... Thanks. I'm not shipping wire...but if you wanna swing by I'll give you some!

The powersonic PS-121100 vs. Kinetik 2000 And the PS-121400FR vs. Kinetik 2400

What if I just used these with some tweets, and didn't use any "mids"?

I got into car audio about 12 years ago. I was a bass player and one day figured out that I could play CD's thru my bass amp. It was all downhill from there. I started listening to bass and rap CD's in the house. Then I realized I was missing something in the car. My first subs were Lanzar 12" OA's (designed for infinite baffle) in a large sealed box in the back of my 4Runner. Since then I have had Orion XTR's, Image Dynamics ID's, and some loud crappy Audiobahn's. I have always liked the sound of sealed systems, and the simplicity of build. I have heard MANY ported systems, and while they were always LOUD AS HELL, there were things I didn't like about them. Port chuffing was a BIG turnoff on most of the ported systems I've heard. Narrow frequency band was another. I sold my last subs a few years ago, and ever since I've been missing them. I just got a job, and have some xtra cash. First purchase was car audio gear. I wanted loudest possible in my car, and something loud and nice for the wifes car. Her system is what I'm reviewing today. I didn't sell the amp. It is a Lanzar VHC2000. The sub has the Copper coil option. And it's a dual 2ohm coil. The car is a stock BMW 330ci from 2002. The battery in these cars is in the trunk, so I ran 1/0 power and ground straight off the battery, about 4 feet. ( I didn't fuse the run either, I !DO NOT! recommend this, but it works for me.) For speaker wire, I had some 8ga power wire left over after a few older installs. The amp is supposed to make 1100w at 4ohm mono, but I seriously doubt that's happening. Look at the amp, that power IS NOT coming out of it. Anyway, the sub is sealed with approx 1.5cuft. The box is single walled MDF facing up in the trunk. I listen to a wide range of music. Everything from 'drum and bass' to 'house' to rap to hardcore techno to metal to emo to old country to old jazz. All of this can be found in my CD case. Mostly rap and metal though. The SSD has a HUGE low end. From 25hz to 40hz it (all by itself) is as loud as some systems with the same power and 2 12"s!!! It seems to be a little lacking in the upper bass, but thats fine with me, I live for the LOW LOW stuff. The low end of this sub makes me VERY happy. I just wish the 50-80hz would be as deafening. Songs like 50cent "Little Bit" are really loud, but "Toy Soldiers" isn't. "Toy Soldiers" was as loud on my last system as "Little Bit". I need to talk about the sound quality. pucking WONDERFUL! Even my Image Dynamics didn't sound this nice. The bass lines on The Who's greatest hits sounded woody and accurate. The bass and kick drums on Van Halen's "Panama" were perfect. Tori Amos's piano sounded real and balanced on "Mohammed My Friend". I just haven't heard bass this accurate before. ( I haven't heard the "Q", but after this, I can't believe that there is a big enough difference to warrant the extra cost.) I just love this sub. The upper bass (50-80hz) is softer and less defined. This allows it to blend with the factory system, and just fill out the lows. I plan ( and wonder if) putting this sub in a ported box would help "stiffen" the upper register. But I'm afraid that it will overpower the factory mids. I will built a new box in a few weeks and will update this. Summing up. Pros, cheap and loud. WONDERFUL SQ! Cons, upper register isn't as loud as I think it could be. This is the Lanzar that's powering it. This is the box it's in. This is the 8ga "power" wire I'm using as "speaker" wire This is showing the HUGE excursion on 30hz, 31hz, 32hz, 33hz, 34hz, 35hz. Any questions?

I'm REALLY considering jumping on the sae1000d presale. $250...for 1000w and a subsonic filter.... This Lanzar doesn't have a ss filter. Thats why I'm a little leary of sticking this sub in a ported box. I have 2 SAZ-1500d's lying around...may just put one of those to work.

~1.5 cubes stuffed with 20oz of polyfil Wifeys 2002 BMW 330Ci Amp is Lanzar VHC2000 Specs say [email protected] doubt it. MAYBE 1000w...probably closer to 800ish. More pics of the box and speaker...

My very first video.

And what if you did it like this?

I want to put 3 batterys in the back end of the car. I have a lot of 1/0 wire. Which is better/correct?

http://www.power-sonic.com/index.php?id=31&gr_id=40 They use the same glass mat technology as Kinetik. I'm thinking about putting three of these in the back of my car. What do you think? Nominal Voltage........................................................ 12 volts (6 cells in series) Nominal Capacity 20 hour rate (5.5A to 10.50 volts) ................................................... 110.0 A.H. 10 hour rate (10.3A to 10.50 volts) .................................................. 103.0 A.H. 5 hour rate (17.7A to 10.20 volts) .................................... 88.5 A.H. 1 hour rate (61.8A to 09.00 volts) ............................................... 61.8 A.H. 15 min rate (204A to 09.00 volts) ......................................................... 51.0 A.H. Approximate Weight................................................................. 70.6 pounds (32.0 kg) Energy Density (20 hour rate)................ 1.79 Watt-hours/cubic inch (109.2 Watt-hours/l) Specific Energy (20 hour rate)............... 18.7 Watt-hours/pound (41.25 Watt-hours/kg) Internal Resistance (Fully Charged Battery)................. 2.9 milliohms (approximately) Maximum Discharge Current ( <_ 7 Min.)....................... 330 amperes Maximum Short-Duration Discharge Current ( <_ 10 Sec.)..................... 660 amperes Terminals ........... Type

Can these results be divided by 2 to get the single amp rating at these voltages? I know in theory they can...but things rarely work out like that. Do you have single 1500d at various voltage/impediance numbers?