dopey

Just below audible clipping. The voltage will be determined by the HU. And unless you have an O-scope (dont make me spell it...and if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't bother)...use your ears instead.

If it's going up front(engine compartment), the one that FITS is best. And bigger is better. If you want to see sizes for ALOT of different batterys and manufacturers... Batteryweb.com has good info.

Why don't you put the Fi in? What kinda sub is that?

RAAMmat on sale!!! "We have decided to extend the order date for the 20% refund until the end of this week, Friday the 29th." So get it quick!

It'll be fine as long as you aren't stupid with it.

Unless you cruise around with a MM on the leads, you wouldn't know. Sorry to interrupt.

I don't think more subs are the answer. You aren't going to get an open top vehicle loud. I personally think that sealed sounds louder in the open, but SSD's aren't boomy, so they might not be what you're after. ? You need a new car for SPL.

Normal members that don't want anyone to know they fudged up?

Where did you learn to do that?

Which models do you have?

For any of you geetar players out there... NEVER I repeat NEVER, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, so much as turn a tube amp on, without it seeing an active load. Tube amps are VERY finicky about that...and you will blow an output tranny so fast it'll make your head spin. When I say tube amps, I mean amps with tube OUTPUT stages...USAmps TU series doesn't qualify. But they may blow with no load too. (Some think they blow nowadays anyway)

Tune higher? Going sealed will PROBABLY not bring the peak up...it will probably make the peak point seem lower. edit: Try a BTL? Mine SLAMS NUTS between 40-70.

If those amps ARE NOT 1 ohm stable...I would not get dual 2ohm subs...instead I'd get dual 1ohm subs and wire them in parallel for a 2ohm load per amp. Q's are AWESOME subs. They should hold their own against w7's...but I'd look at going ported for great SQ and TONS of punch.

I've got 2. It's supposed to rluz hardco....but I haven't the alternator for them yet. *waits patiently for July 9th*

D/Ling full CD right now. THANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Hey Nick, I know you have mucho experience in the SPL field, would you mind talking a little about how volume, port area, and depth play into overall SPL? You are a good resource for us. Thanks

I vote 15"BTL ported. Or 18" if you have the CUFT. Loud and willing to take more if you ever decide to upgrade amps.

Put your q into a ported box and see if that's not what youre after. Porting will raise the levels of 40-60hz, but you lose alot of the sub-25hz (not real important, to me at least). And ported boxes get louder. And are easy to build...and and and.. Really, the only con is that they are a little larger.

The Yellowtop Optimas are good, as are the Kinetiks. Look around, you can find batteries that are just as good for less$. Powersonic, Odyssey...are a few that come to mind. Look in the yellow pages for Battery, and talk to them about Group 31 AGM (absorptive glass mat), and SLA (sealed lead acid). You want >100Ah...and >1000CCA. Good luck!

I lay the back seats down.

? I'm we Todd did, and you? BTL's get loud.....VERY loud. Just drinkin and goofin with the "retarded" comment. All in good fun, and with utmost respect...or at least something resembling utmost respect.

Does this clear it all up?

Try to get the owner of MTX to answer goofy "what will the future bring?" questions on a Sunday evening... Jake, you are a class act! Thanks for all you do!

So... 100% it's not a problem?

And the last thing I want implied with that last questions is that I am in anyway unhappy with the current offerings. I have 2 1500D's and a 100.4, they are GREAT quality...but I want something that will shut the haters up. A line to compete with the likes of Brax, Tru, and ......whatever RIckRolled is running on his mids and highs.