emperorjj1

i can sometimes hear a difference in some amps. Crossovers/slopes do alot along with distortion and voltage ratings BUT 90% of amps sound exactly the same. So to answer ur question theres a million variables within the 12v industry. Until you have more accurate testing devices its free game.

pioneer 5k is actually pretty nice. havent messed with any new pioneer flips other then that one

The easiest way to get over that obsession is to look at a DNX-8120. You'll forget all about that DDX. actually i found out the DDX is the same unit as the DNX - navigation. EXACTLY.

im now obsessed with the kenwood ddx812

hey what up audiolife? didnt know u were on this forum

nope im just an enthusiast thats been thru hell and back to attempt to add an alternator on my car. Stock wires i honestly dont know. aftermarket alts are usually one wire or use a relay to hook up (very simple) but stock on my car atleast have a 4 wire plug. Unless u know what wires are what its basically useless. There's plenty you can get and be fine but if your going to add an alt i would try getting the biggest one you can. something like 200a. When thinking of how much current you need alt wise just get the amps fuse rating and divide in half (for music) That's a good reference for the minimum your going to want but there's several variables you can use to guesstimate that number (power avail from ur stock alt, average alt power, avail batt power ect ect)

no its a module that provides 12v for the rest of ur car. you can also do something like the kinetik hc16v but using both teminals daily is harder on the battery. Id trust it a million times more then the step down module thou

got the knob in today. thanks jacob hopefully it does reduce the gain instead of increase it but ill see soon enough

T30001bd

depends on the oem alt and what hook ups it has

as long as the second alt is 14.4v it should be compatible. the main part and concern is getting the second alt mounted and getting a belt running around it. Also remember the alt must be mounted to the engine only nothing connected to the chassis. and hopefully the person your talking about is local because if the bracket is just off the slightest bit your going to run into issues

isnt tc sounds no more thou?

done alot with them at the shop and its very vehicle dependent. Sadly no one with a single SX has been on the meter but one girl with 2 sx 12s in a cavi did 146._ i forget her other scores but shes done quite a bit before she sold the car

if its the style im thinking of getting the double din to fit shouldnt be too bad

interesting ive always used CA glue when reconing.... just pointing out any extra options

Well you need to think about where you can fit it where it would hit the belt.... and think about mounting is it possible? and lastly think of if you can get someone to do it

^^^ that should be good. what vehicle are you doing it in?

CA glue is what they use at the factory

one customer we have has an MT 15 running off a fosgate 1001bd and its loud so u should be fine on a 3k running half power

noooo New heat sink is all powerbass style

aww too late. bought one from jacob already. Thanks thou

custom bracket is just that custom. so there really isnt a guide on how easy or hard it is. You will need a badass welder/fabricator to get a custom bracket done (again dependent on vehicle)

true but sadly my current HU doenst have sub control. getting a temp hu soon (pioneer 780 or something like that) but i need to buy another set of RCAs anyway. Even thou my processor has a remote and the option for either volume or sub control i bought the knob anyway. LOL

yup... ill hit up jacob i wasnt sure if it was on the site or somewhere else and i was just being stupid not finding it. ku40 - i asked jacob and the remote output on the saz3000d is for gain reduction instead of bass boost or whatever else it might be

busta and linkin - we made it