The_Death_Scort

What kind/how much? PM me.

1/0 G grounds, big 3 has been done. Can't really afford a SA amp, any recommendations for something that won't kill it when I recone it?

fets? So you don't think it's completely fubar?

Ok, I got the nightshade apart. Had to fight with 1/4" of shoegoo and JB Weld, (thanks PO), but I got it off. Gotta clean the rest of the surround and spider (and shoegoo, and JB Weld... thanks again previous owner...), and I'll have a good platform for the recone This is one that may help determine the cause of failure - These are the detailed pics that were requested a WHILE ago. I just now got around to disassembling it.

Ok, well it's down to the point where if I pull the hot, it stays on, and the only way to turn it off is to remove the remote, or ground... Quite frustrating. I've hooked a wire from the HU to the amp for a remote, thinking there was something wrong with mine, but alas, no dice. I even did a jumper wire straight from the hot to the rmt, and the protect light was STILL on.... I'm guessing it's just majorly fcked, and I should look for another 4ch to power my 6x9's and the new True Bass Solutions 8" I picked up today. At any rate...

<<< A beast at photoshop.... Jussayin!

Not my style, but mad props on all the fab work! That's one Coupe that's growing on me! Sub'd for updates!

If I remember correctly, if my fuses are popping, that's a grounded hot correct?

Yeah still popping fuses even with the speaker wires off.

Ok so new problem arises. Completely off topic but I didn't want to start a new thread. My MA audio amp 400w, keeps popping fuses, and the protect light stays on. I was leaning over it while I was sweating my ass off, but I didn't see anything drippin into the amp. It pops 30a, and 25a fuses, hasn't popped a 20 or a 15, but the protect light stays on. Any suggestions?

Yes but I beat for a consistent amount of time. I don't want to overload the woofer, or the amp.

I would nearly kill for a Sundown amp, but a fellow I know in my parts that used to deal with Jake back in the day said that if the amps get anything below 14v, it'll kill the amp. I don't know how much truth was in his statement, but with just a 75a alt, I didn't want to drop 500+ bucks then kill it.

I really don't want to cook it again, nor the amp, but in my neck of the woods, finding a good monoblock that is 1ohm stable is like finding a needle in a haystack.

Oh Dang... That sucks. And I just turned a trade for a 1200W 1ohm stable amp down... ISHT! Anyone on here got one they would trade + Boot? Doesn't have to be anything special, but I'd like to put 1200 TO the sub, without killing either.

What can I do to prevent this in the future?

Where it melted -

Because the amp isn't 1ohm stable? I set it to where no distortion was detected by ear. I don't have an O-scope, or I'd use that instead. What would make the amp superheat the tinsel leads? That makes little sense to me, but I'm an engine guy, not a woofer-builder.

Eh?

Hahaha, It's not a paperweight I take that back. I just refuse to sell it because it's so fcking awesome! And Being a prior Airborne, I prefer gravel . I have it wired at 1 ohm on a NON 1 ohm stable amp. The amps gain is at halfway, and the bass boost is at 1/4. The EQ on the head unit is like such - Low - 0 Mid - 3 High - 6, bass on the head unit is set at +2, SLA is set at +1, and the hz settings are mostly for my highs/mids. Box is 2.25~ give or take, was 2.48 before port and sub, tuned to 38hz. The amp is a Phoenix Gold Ryval P800.2, sub is bridged.

Here's to hoping!! You wouldn't work out a deal with me as in when I order the recone, you could slide me a sticker or two? Lol, just asking!

When I get off work, I'll remove the soft parts and look. Everyone keep your fingers crossed!! I don't need a 65 lbs paperweight!

So you don't think that I damaged the motor at all? I'm prayin!

Well, my Nightshade bit the dust about a week or two ago, and I'm just now getting around to posting it. I'm not 100% positive about what happened but I want to run it past you guys first and see if I need a Recone or a new sub. I was pounding like I usually do on my way to work, and it was incredibly loud. As in louder than I've ever heard it before. Anyways, in my 15 minute commute to work, I had pulled up in the parking lot and just as I did, the sub stopped working. Wtf...? I wondered to myself and probably said aloud. I pulled into a parking space, and popped the hatch and there was smoke rolling out of the port. I quickly managed to lift my box and get the sub out. No fire was noted but the spider was so brittle from where it had ?caught fire? (don't know since I never saw a flame), that I can pull chunks of the spider off in one certain area. It got so hot that the surround started to melt. So... I plan on taking the old guts out of this one and inspecting. What's the failure rate on the Nightshade 12 V.1's Motor? If it was just the spider tinsel leads getting too hot, then I can get a recone. I'd prefer that over shelling out 600+ bucks. Thanks!!

THIS is what the Nightshade is going in - Well, as most of you remember, my LX sat for a LONG time... It's finally revived!!! Enkei RSF-2s ftw! Gutting and cleaning.... Eeergh!!

Thanks guys, Apparently I'm not the only southern fella that likes to turn heads. The other day I was getting me a 6 pack on my way home from work (it was a helluva day, let me tell you) and there was a couple that looked to be in an argument that pulled up next to me as I was leaving. I got in my car, fired it up, I heard the subtle thump thump of my amp cutting on, and it went BOOOM BOOOOM, and the couple nearly broke their necks turning around to look at me. Priceless! Wish I had a picture of their face.