knockinthastreetzof608

well i had the having the box where the backseats are located at, since i barley got the car and not ready for a wall i had this thoughed in my idea has it been done before? how does it sound? any mechincal noise coming from the woofer you think? idk if i worded it correctly. its ethier my recone them to 18's or recone them to 15's i currently have 2 10's dc audio xl woofers any input you guys? no idea if its done before to be honest, is my idea a complete fail or another way to feed my goal of getting louder any input will be helpful

thats fine with me just keep me updated then

this was the idea, but i dont think it has enough port area, Internal Dimensions 16.5” x 9.5” x 34” External Dimensions 18.75” x 11” x 35.5 Airspace after sub port displacement (equal for all ports) 2^3ft Port 1 47 hertz 39^2 in (6” x 6.5”) Port 2 39 hertz 31.5^2 in (6” x 5.25”) Port 3 30 hertz 22.5^2 in (6” x 3.75”) but I AM A see what you do because im barley learning thanks

well i was thinking perhaps interchangble ports? one for daily one for comps and one to hit the lows? idk if thats to much for what im asking for and also my other request where just cosmetical on the finish on my box o and also is it possible to have my port on the driver side? let me know if its possible man, got the cash already just waitin on u

ahh very understandable yes, price is good with me ill be willing to pay more for few extra details is possible for you to make? but ill ask you later i rather make it sound good then look good, but yes price point is fair

i would ask mechman about if your car is pcm controlled my mustang is and makes my voltage low even tho i have 2d3100 and 1d3400 under the hood, i mean i like my 270 just i kno im getting all my voltage i need i rarley drop to 12.9 on full tilt tho

but anymore specs then that? like what is it tuned too what are the new dimensions or is that what u reccmond?

bump guess no one wants to build my enclosure

i just think its the headunit i had this amp for awhile now and in 3different headunit no problem whats so ever, but ill try it once more and if it doesnt work ill just use the 12volt red wire then, and i mean in the pioneer harness there only one wire that blue so i know it has to be the remote but it just doesnt turn on at all for me even when i had my video bypass it did goofy shit to my car when i turned my car off when i had the key in it still, my gauges will flash and i could still here the relay click on and off and my lights above me will fash but once i open the door the light stop

thats what i was trying to explain it about putting the remote wires together that how im running my amp just i remove my remote when i leave the car for long period of times, if i do it that way my amp works and doesnt go into protect, but if run it by remote wire from headunit when the cars off amp is on protect so im confused and why is it bad to have the jumper wire to use my amp with??? should i stop right away?

unless i have the wrong wire can anyone tell me which one is the remote i bought this unit used so all the wires where cut really short and the printed letters are gone its a pioneer avh3200dvd

i did that and my amp still doesnt turn on it stays on protect, when i turn the key to the headunit turns on but the voltmeter and the amp turn off, but once i turn back the key and take it out the voltmeter and the amp goes back to protect

well im sorry for not making it easy to understand just lil mad over the subject in hand thats all. well i just hooked up my remote wire from the pioneer unit on the voltmeter and the remote wire for my amp and they only turn on while the car is off(protect mode for the amp volt-meter acts fine) when once i turn the key so that my h/u comes on my volt nd amp turn off i tried the remote on the h/u tried putting the power attena from harness of my mustang to remote wire of my h/u and my volt meter and amp all together and it does the same thing so idk what i could be now

i dont think i have my atenna pluged in my stereo, could that be the problem? and i just thoughed it the power attena wire is like a remote wire just a different name ,i just wanna be able to turn on my stuff when i turn the key and turn off when i take the key out

1.)what do you mean by grounding? 2.)yes, well just the red wire is my black one one of my d3100 and the remote is on the power attena cable 3.)and when power and remote are together both come on,but when just the both remote wires are in the amp nothing comes on, nethier the voltmeter or the amp i have to have voltmeter on the power and remote on the power and the amp stays in the remote to say on, no other combination work sorry for not making it clearer

i have some ofc compention shok wire from mechman if you wanna 3ft to test? i got 2 spools for my build and i got about 15ft left after let me know

let me know how much Vehicle Make and Model: Ford Mustang 2005 Direct of Box/Subs: firing into the cabin most likely Sealed or Ported:ported Number of Subs:2 Brand and Model of Subs:DC AUDIO XL Max Dimensions:11 1/2" height 24"deep 36"wide Port Color:Legend Lime Flush Mount Ring Color (if flush mount is chosen): Legend Lime Carpet Color: Black Zip Code for Shipping Quote:53511 Any other notes: i would like it have some nice lows i currently have a 2.5cube box tuned to 34hz i dont really like the output very much in it let me know tho powered by a single aq3500d1

well i have everything hookedup and when my amp wont turn on, my remote wire power grounds, all connected to my back battery, as of now i got my stinger voltmeter working but thats it, it only works when the power and the remote wire are hooked together, and then the remote wire to the amp, thats only when it turns on but if i take out my voltmeter amp doesnt turn on, anyone know how to solve my problem dont have have to keep removing my remote wire, to have to turn off my amp and turn it back on as well also my aq gets hot pretty much imo. any help will be nice, i kow its kinda of a mess if you guys want me to explain it better i will

pics of said amp?

email people from xs power, or if you really want a group 3100 bat under the hood just fab up a battery holder to make it fit lol

so you think these will do? its pretty much the last peice of work on my build to finish it

http://www.menards.com/main/p-1638934-c-8940.htm thinking maybe these?

3/4mdf and its a double baffle

how long you think ? and it doesnt need to be any screw with an aggresive looking thread,k,m

well what kind do you guys use? im about to mount my woofers but i dont feel comfrontable using the ones i bought to mount my fuse holders down, what use what kinda of should i be looking for i live in southern wisconsin so i have a menards thats about it and a home depot, but that like a 20min drive not really wanted to go all the way there for it unless i really have too