Jump to content
View in the app

A better way to browse. Learn more.

SSA® Car Audio Forum

A full-screen app on your home screen with push notifications, badges and more.

To install this app on iOS and iPadOS
  1. Tap the Share icon in Safari
  2. Scroll the menu and tap Add to Home Screen.
  3. Tap Add in the top-right corner.
To install this app on Android
  1. Tap the 3-dot menu (⋮) in the top-right corner of the browser.
  2. Tap Add to Home screen or Install app.
  3. Confirm by tapping Install.

tejcurrent

Vendors
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by tejcurrent

  1. Exactly. A distro block is just a hunk of metal. Do what you want with it.
  2. I'll look around for the h701 then, thanks a lot. The only place I can ask locally about Alpine products is Best Buy Correct on the tweets, and I would like to try to fit the mids and mid bass in the doors. I'll probably put the mid somewhere in the grill covered area, with the mid bass a bit below the mid. My vehicle is both family truck and work truck, so pretty much all of my passengers are careless and I don't trust uncovered speakers or ones that may get 'kicked' in the kick. We also use the vehicle for all road trips, so I'd like to keep as much space by my feet as possible. My substage is definitely spl oriented. It's not good for kids in the car, or even for well-balanced music. I have my subs off when the family is in the car, and on a lot of rock. The problem with that is that I have my family with me a lot, and listen to primarily rock/metal. I want to have a front stage (there's no rear fill) that sounds good overall, without feeling like much is lacking without a subwoofer. I feel like all the metal/rock I listen to is missing a lot of the bass guitar and kickdrums I love. I guess it boils down to wanting it to sound good with the ability to play the ~50-250hz range with more authority than the components I have now do.
  3. It's just shy of 8" behind the grill, which I really would prefer to keep. I'm going to put the tweets near the area where the dash and windshield meet to keep them out of the way for driving. I just want things to look close to factory when done.
  4. It is an 01 chevy tahoe, the 6.5 comp set is in the door within a few inches of each other. Here's an old picture of one door panel with the screen off to show speaker location:
  5. What would you recommend? I will do whatever is necessary, I'd just prefer to do as little as possible.
  6. Roughly 4.5" mounting depth, I can fiberglass the panels to get proper air space whatever it may be. I can fit a 7" behind the factory grill which I would like to preserve factory appearances- though I can still angle things quite a bit.
  7. Hey guys, I'm buying an Alpine IVA-D310 and I'm hoping to get a nice 3-way active setup going. I found the h/u for a good price lightly used, not really willing to spend the 500+ I have on past h/u's. a I was trying to find an Alpine PXA-H701 but I can't find one so maybe someone could suggest a comparable eq that could be controlled with the touch screen? Also I just want to make sure this is a good unit for my situation. As far as the 3-way active setup, I have an older eclipse ea4000, but I'm willing to sell to get another 4 channel and a 2 channel, or just add another 2 channel. I do want the amps to match though so suggestions would be great. I'm on a budget at the moment, but I was told DLS made some nice comps that would be a good starting point, though I'm not sure on the 7/8" midbass. I listen to a lot of rock, mostly heavier rock and feel like I'm lacking so much in the lower mid/ midbass area. I currently have realm audio 6.5 comps and I'm not pleased with the bottom end. I have subs, but for the majority of my listening I'd prefer to have them off. I would be happy for things to play down to about 50hz well. I'm thinking maybe $1000 budget on speakers and amps, cheaper would be much better. I plan on making a-pillars to house the tweeters, with the mid / midbass angled in the door near the factory location to preserve cosmetics. I will not be making obvious pods- I know I'd have more flexibility and ability to make things sound better, but I just don't want to make the work obvious. Thanks, I'll try to answer any questions I can to get things right. Any help is appreciated.
  8. Forgot a few pics of the h/u wiring. I soldered the harness and shrink-rapped everything. This was before the remote wire was added, but you get the idea. I HATE a wiring mess in the dash
  9. I would get 2 DPs, they would just be a better match to that power for daily use imo.
  10. I think plans are changing. It seems this setup may soon be in an explorer on a 3000d Then the 1500 will end up on a sealed Alpine type-x 12. Just waiting for the go ahead on that.
  11. For daily driver or what is the goal? I see you have 4 15s now, but what is the actual space to work with? Also what's the budget?
  12. 4 x 220 amps, so 880 amps on about 13,000 watts.
  13. Thanks I'd definitely compare it to the BTL as far as daily listening, it probably sounds a bit better. The box is tuned in-vehicle a bit higher, but this setup sounds more accurate with the same settings and more musical. Because of it's higher tuning it drops off below 30hz faster, but I really don't have much music below that anyway- I was shooting for higher numbers with this box too. I can't honestly say if it's the build (this isn't as well built as the box for the btls imo) but with similar power these definitely sound louder than the 4 btl 18s I had. It's not quite a fair comparison when you look at the price difference in my opinion though.
  14. Thanks a lot. I'll pass it on to my cousin, but he doesn't really want to do much more. He has his rear speakers, but he doesn't want to port the deck. From what I've been told I have like 2 builds to do pretty soon here before I can get back to the Tahoe.
  15. Lowes was the only place I know of that carries it. It's like 9 bucks a can and took 2 cans. Not too bad for the area it covers, though it isn't as durable as say truck bed liner. It's really loud from down the road- either that or I'm not used to hearing fairly loud vehicles driving in my area.
  16. And one for 2 15" Lethal Injections
  17. Did 2 builds recently: Mine 2 21" Wardens, 1 AB 1000.1:
  18. I bet He really wants the saz-1500 but it would've went over budget. I'm pushing him to get an American Bass 120.1 in the next few months.
  19. lol, I tried to show it but his whole rear bumper and everything moves. The trunk latch is attached to the area where is tail lights are and they flex in and out too - definitely going to take something more than a layer or two of deadener. He's using the AP 1500d, which honestly didn't impress me near as much as the subs did. Just running with the volume very low (we were talking) it became hot. Once it heated up it just stayed at that temperature- I guess it wasn't cook-an-egg hot, but it was much warmer than I'd expect an amp with no issues to be. It worked fine, but I hope he gets a bigger amp soon because these subs would eat it up imo.
  20. From behind the car the trunk sounds retarded. It's so noisy, but you don't here that inside the car too bad. Hopefully there will be deadener before too soon. Here is the bit of video we could take before neighbors looked angry, I was surprised with the air it moved from the trunk with such little power. My camera really doesn't pick up flex well, but here it is:
  21. We got things powered but not really set up, I just adjusted the ssf and turned up the gain 1/2 way. After about 30 seconds my wife ran outside saying the bass was making our 11 month old cry, so I sent my cousin on his way till we could tune elsewhere. The trunk rattles like crazy, though it sounds really clean otherwise. It's not retarded loud or anything, but this is the lowest powered setup I've worked on in years so I wasn't sure what to expect. We'll hopefully tune tomorrow and try it out on different music.
  22. Yes sir I really love using the finish nailer, especially if you're working alone. Thanks a lot, I think the effort that went into this will pay off. I made the box height and width the largest possible- knowing we were going to cut some metal. We were able to get it in with less cutting than I anticipated after a bit of bending (that can be undone ) Depth wise he can still fit groceries behind the box, and have his kid in the back seat. My cousin bought an Audiopipe 1500. He was going to use my amp but I think it needs some work since it didn't power up successfully. I'm not very familiar with the amp, I was hoping for at least the 1200 rms his subs need, but I can clamp it down the road. We were going to run the power today but it didn't work out- hopefully we'll get it done tomorrow- I know he's pretty anxious, and I want to see how it sounds. I anticipate trunk rattling so bad he'll start saving for sound deadener before upgrading anything else.
  23. I just realized how uncomfortable I look in those pics lol. Those sparks hurt wearing shorts
  24. I only got a few pics with as much work as we were doing, but that was such a tight fit lol. Cut part of the trunk release spring/bar thing. And the corner bracing for the rear seat A few more side pics of the subs Incriminator Audio: no chrome, no carbon fiber, no BS. That shiny 'black nickel finish' sure looks pretty though Another can of that paint and 10 minutes and we'll have those scratches looking nice again. The tension of that spring must be ridiculous.
  25. No the gasket will seal tight- I've already sanded off the small amount of overspray, so it's back to smooth primer. Thanks guys.

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.